Nigel Triumph Posted August 9, 2020 Report Share Posted August 9, 2020 I've used Magnecor 8.5mm leads. Seem to last forever. Nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
michaeldavis39 Posted August 9, 2020 Report Share Posted August 9, 2020 Are the Magnecor copper Nigel as I though they were silicon? Michael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted August 9, 2020 Report Share Posted August 9, 2020 3 hours ago, RobH said: The WR78 is a resistor-type suppressed plug so copper cored leads are best. Hi Rob! Copper core HT leads are a no no with electronic ignition because of EMP generated, the electronic Hall switch does not function as it should, as per the Techie at Pertronix? Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel Triumph Posted August 9, 2020 Report Share Posted August 9, 2020 27 minutes ago, michaeldavis39 said: Are the Magnecor copper Nigel as I though they were silicon? Michael The KV85 leads on my car have a 'ferromagnetic' core. Not sure of the exact composition but suspect the conductor is an alloy with high nickel content. Nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
michaeldavis39 Posted August 9, 2020 Report Share Posted August 9, 2020 So I have bought Bosch WR78 plugs and I have electronic ignition-hal effect- what plug leads should I have?? Michael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted August 9, 2020 Report Share Posted August 9, 2020 (edited) Don't use wire leads! Only use the silicone carbon string ones I'm using the same Bosch plugs with the Hall effect unit and using silicone leads, look on the website where you got your Hall effect unit they will clarify. John Edited August 9, 2020 by John L Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted August 9, 2020 Report Share Posted August 9, 2020 (edited) 50 minutes ago, astontr6 said: Copper core HT leads are a no no with electronic ignition because of EMP generated, the electronic Hall switch does not function as it should, as per the Techie at Pertronix? OK Bruce but maybe only with some electronic ignitions - not all of them use Hall sensors. It doesn't say much for the design of those ignition units if they are that touchy though. (Actually I would expect the suppressed plugs to deal adequately with RFI . It should be a choice of plugs or leads, but ideally not both as you don't want too much resistance in circuit.) However, if you have one of those Hall units Michael I guess you have no choice but to follow the maker's instructions, because of warranty considerations, and use resistive leads. Yet another good reason for sticking with points! Edited August 9, 2020 by RobH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
michaeldavis39 Posted August 9, 2020 Report Share Posted August 9, 2020 (edited) I've got a Magnaspark ignition which I did a lot of researching at the time and it looked to be the best available. Looking on the website where I bought it I don't see any reference to plug leads so perhaps I had better contact them? https://www.texautomotive.com/manga_spark.html Michael Edited August 9, 2020 by michaeldavis39 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted August 9, 2020 Report Share Posted August 9, 2020 That unit is rather different as the electronics are outside the distributor in a separate housing. Maybe it isn't as touchy as the (e.g.) Pertronix where it is all inside with the sparks? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
michaeldavis39 Posted August 10, 2020 Report Share Posted August 10, 2020 Maybe Rob- it is one of the reasons I bought it, still I will ring them to see and will let you know. Michael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John McCormack Posted August 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2020 I fitted the RN14YC plugs and got a 5km run in today. There is a noticeable improvement in power, smoothness and idle. I can't detect any adverse issues with the resistor plugs, as I say it does go better with these plugs. The old ones weren't too old, 12,300 kms, but the new plugs might just be an improvement on the old ones. We have a TR Register lunch run tomorrow so I will see how it goes on a longer run. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John McCormack Posted August 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2020 (edited) To wrap up this thread. I set off this morning for a 50km club event. The car was running nicely but after about 10km the car started running on 5 cylinders. A quick check nothing was loose and checked the injector lines and they are all pulsing seemingly the same. I return home. Pull the new plugs and No5 is sooted up. As the plugs were the last thing I did and they are resistor plugs with no resistor connected I go to the local store and buy a set of NGK BP5ES. They didn't have the others in stock. Install the plugs and still missing on No5. Check all the ignition and change the No 5 lead. No good. Pull No 5 injector and it is dribbling. Bleed it and the car is going really nicely. A coincidence that the injector played up at the same time as the plugs but that's life with a PI TR6. The good bit is the car does run better with the NGKs than the Champions. It now pulls away smoothly in top or od from about 1300rpm where before it needed 1500rpm. The Champions can stay in the boot as spares. Edited August 11, 2020 by John McCormack Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Yarm 783 Posted August 11, 2020 Report Share Posted August 11, 2020 Michael, I used KV85 Magnecor leads. I too am having fouling issues and after reading this post have ordered the NGK BUR6ET 3172. Cyl 5 and 6 were by far the worst in terms of fouling, but they were pretty messy all the way down to 1 really, so I suspect some tuning may be in order. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KiwiTR6 Posted August 11, 2020 Report Share Posted August 11, 2020 On 8/8/2020 at 9:02 PM, Mike C said: Used to have this problem with BP5ES and BP6ES plugs. Never had it since I switched to NGK BUR6ET triple electrode plugs. +1 You might also want to consider rerouting the rocker cover breather hose to a catch tank or just fit it with a small filter as I have done. Oil from the breather fouls the rear two plugs and since I've disconnected it and fitted the BUR6ET plugs I have no issues and all six of them run equally clean. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John McCormack Posted August 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2020 53 minutes ago, Sill Gap Problem said: Michael, I used KV85 Magnecor leads. I too am having fouling issues and after reading this post have ordered the NGK BUR6ET 3172. Cyl 5 and 6 were by far the worst in terms of fouling, but they were pretty messy all the way down to 1 really, so I suspect some tuning may be in order. The fouling on my car was pretty even across all 6. I'm hoping the hotter grade plugs I've put in solve it. If your issue is on a few cylinders it might not be the plugs but the mixture on those cylinders. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel Triumph Posted August 11, 2020 Report Share Posted August 11, 2020 38 minutes ago, KiwiTR6 said: +1 You might also want to consider rerouting the rocker cover breather hose to a catch tank or just fit it with a small filter as I have done. Oil from the breather fouls the rear two plugs and since I've disconnected it and fitted the BUR6ET plugs I have no issues and all six of them run equally clean. Breathing does seems to be a problem on PI TR6s. The standard breather pipe from rocker cover to plenum gives almost no vacuum scavenging, unlike most carburettor breathing arrangements, and oil can collect in the plenum. If the plug fouling is due to oil rather than over-rich mixture, better breathing arrangements should help. I've fitted a second breather by making an adaptor that fits in place of the fuel pump blanking plate on the side of the block, which exits via a hose to a catch tank. Since then, there's no oil in the plenum and no oil leaks. Nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
michaeldavis39 Posted August 11, 2020 Report Share Posted August 11, 2020 Nigel have you any photos of your arrangement please? Michael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Yarm 783 Posted August 11, 2020 Report Share Posted August 11, 2020 So, just fit a set of NGK BUR6ET, checked the timing 11 deg BTDC, so OK. First run was great, pulled cleanly, no hesitation or misfire, I’ll have a look at the plugs tomorrow, but so far, so good. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel Triumph Posted August 11, 2020 Report Share Posted August 11, 2020 Just now, michaeldavis39 said: Nigel have you any photos of your arrangement please? Michael That's a bit awkward. The detail will soon be published in a classic magazine that I work for and they have copyright on my photos. Sorry. But it's not too hard to work out. There's some discussion about it on the TSSC forum, I will try to find it and post a link. Nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
michaeldavis39 Posted August 11, 2020 Report Share Posted August 11, 2020 Oh ok thanks Nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel Triumph Posted August 11, 2020 Report Share Posted August 11, 2020 https://forum.tssc.org.uk/topic/6245-cylinder-head-gasket-oil-leaks/?do=findComment&comment=81261 Have a look at this thread on the TSSC forum for a bit more info. Or get a copy of Practical Classics in a month or two and see my Staff Car Saga for full details. Nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted August 12, 2020 Report Share Posted August 12, 2020 Wonder why most want to cure the symptoms and not the cause. A proper PI can idle for hours and as all cylinders seem to fire at idle I would check first if fouling might be fuel or oil related. If oil it might be the valve guide, cylinder bore or breather if fuel I would check AFR to become things clear. It is true, a hotter spark plug will not get black at idle but under full load it might get too hot. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Yarm 783 Posted August 13, 2020 Report Share Posted August 13, 2020 I pulled the no6 plug, dry and sooty which was a disappointment. The car is clearly over fueling, I swapped out the air cleaner, but I don’t think that is the issue, I suspect MU or PRV and will have to get these checked. One other thing, could the air bleed valve impact the fuel/ air mixture? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted August 13, 2020 Report Share Posted August 13, 2020 1 hour ago, Sill Gap Problem said: I pulled the no6 plug, dry and sooty which was a disappointment. The car is clearly over fueling, I swapped out the air cleaner, but I don’t think that is the issue, I suspect MU or PRV and will have to get these checked. One other thing, could the air bleed valve impact the fuel/ air mixture? You may need to check the balance of your butterflies. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted August 13, 2020 Report Share Posted August 13, 2020 On 8/11/2020 at 7:41 PM, Nigel Triumph said: https://forum.tssc.org.uk/topic/6245-cylinder-head-gasket-oil-leaks/?do=findComment&comment=81261 Have a look at this thread on the TSSC forum for a bit more info. Or get a copy of Practical Classics in a month or two and see my Staff Car Saga for full details. Nigel I am an avid reader of Practical Classics magazine so I look forward to reading this episode Can you give me a more precise month? Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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