John L Posted August 3, 2020 Report Share Posted August 3, 2020 Is it possible to take the 6 engine out leaving the gearbox in situ, its very close at the bulkhead, to lift the engine front to get over the silly bracket at the front? May be possible to get out , but perhaps a nightmare to get the alignment with the clutch to get it back in. I didn't really want to have to take all the tunnel and seat out again. Any tips would be appreciated John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted August 3, 2020 Report Share Posted August 3, 2020 (edited) John, My example is from my Vitesse, but it demonstrates the advantage that a "Load Leveller" on your hoist gives. You do need a fairly high suppert for the hoist. Reassembling the engine to the gearbox IN the car is such a faff, I'd rather take out both at once. Edited August 3, 2020 by john.r.davies Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jerrytr5 Posted August 3, 2020 Report Share Posted August 3, 2020 Engine & box out together. You'll lose far more time and skin from your knuckles separating them in-situ, and then trying to re-align and get all the bellhousing bolts done up. Why do Triumphs have so many bellhousing bolts? As for John, surely taking the bonnet off the Vitesse will only take 10 mins and make life so much easier. Jerry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chilp3 Posted August 3, 2020 Report Share Posted August 3, 2020 Hi John, The easiest way is indeed to remove the two as a single unit but the down-side is that you have to remove the tunnel as you have identified. It is possible to remove the engine as a separate unit which is how TRGB worked on my TR6 when they rebuilt the engine. I'm sure there will be a wealth of experiences shared on this forum but for now thought this may at least give you some options. Best regards, Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted August 3, 2020 Report Share Posted August 3, 2020 10 hours ago, jerrytr5 said: Engine & box out together. You'll lose far more time and skin from your knuckles separating them in-situ, and then trying to re-align and get all the bellhousing bolts done up. Why do Triumphs have so many bellhousing bolts? As for John, surely taking the bonnet off the Vitesse will only take 10 mins and make life so much easier. Jerry Taking it off is the work of a moment. Replacing it, and getting it all lined up again, well, the differnce is a bit like conceiving, and bringing up children. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 3, 2020 Report Share Posted August 3, 2020 (edited) 22 hours ago, John L said: Is it possible to take the 6 engine out leaving the gearbox in situ, its very close at the bulkhead, to lift the engine front to get over the silly bracket at the front? May be possible to get out , but perhaps a nightmare to get the alignment with the clutch to get it back in. I didn't really want to have to take all the tunnel and seat out again. Any tips would be appreciated John Hi John, if it is anything like a 4/4A engine GB then remove them together. In May I took my GB out was it was a swine to put back so I removed the engine, joined them together and popped the lot back in. Remove the bonnet, suspension brace and drop the steering rack and exhaust from the down pipe. Roger Edited August 4, 2020 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jah Posted August 3, 2020 Report Share Posted August 3, 2020 Hi John If you remove the engine mountings you can lower the front of the engine making it easier to get at & remove the upper bell housing bolts. You will still have to remove the bar between the suspension turrets & the radiator. I don't remember dropping the steering rack when I did it. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marki Posted August 4, 2020 Report Share Posted August 4, 2020 I agree with John, far easier to leave the box and all the interior intact. Drop the engine after removing the mounts and it's fine done it half a dozen times. Good luck, Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted August 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2020 Jah How do you get round the silly hump on the steering bracket, do you take the sump off first perhaps, what's it like aligning up the gearbox for reinstalling? It looks like taking the engine out, it will come out easily enough, its the clutch alignment when putting it back to be more of the problem. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jah Posted August 4, 2020 Report Share Posted August 4, 2020 (edited) Hi John I assume you mean the hump in the red square in picture 2 below. The engine does miss this when you lift it out. To refit the engine make sure your clutch plate is aligned with the bearing in the crankshaft. Place a piece of timber under the gear box & jack up the gearbox till it comes into contact with the bulkhead. The timber needs to protrude just enough to let the bottom of the rear engine plate rest on it as in the red square in picture 1. You may need to juggle the amount the wood sticks out. Lower the engine allowing the mainshaft to enter the pressure plate rest the bottom of the engine on the wood. This will keep the engine plate level with the bottom the gear box & with a bit moving the engine side to side & up & down it should slide up to the gearbox. Then you can lower the engine & gearbox together a bit to get your bolts in. This method as always worked for me so I hope this helps. Regards John Edited August 4, 2020 by jah Quote Link to post Share on other sites
YankeeTR5 Posted August 5, 2020 Report Share Posted August 5, 2020 To me the breakdown is whether you have an early (a-type) or later (j-type) gearbox mount for the rear. The earlier mount is easy to take off and gives the rear all the room it needs to make removing the engine and tranny together easy. The Rube-Goldberg devised mount on the later 6's has convinced me that on those its easier to take the engine out on its own then fight the gearbox mount. I've gotten the bellhousing bolt removal down to 10 minutes, tunnel removal about 5 minutes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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