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Hi there,

I have a Tr6 with EFI and Emerald ECU. I have owned it for a couple of years but am now in a position to try and sort it out. When I last was tinkering it started and ran fine, however when driving it it only ran for a mile or so before screaming from the boot and it spluttered to a halt.

i strongly suspect the fuel system so can any of you advise what the ideal set up would be? If you could give me an overview from tank to injectors (and back again) that would be ideal.

i have tried to read as much on the forum as I can and have a very little knowledge so treat me as a fool and you won’t be far wrong

Once I get the car to its new home I will be able to look at the system in more detail to be able to see how close my TR is to the ideal set up.

Thanks in advance

 

JP

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My setup: Tank - pre-filter - fuel pump (TRGB kit) - filter (in wheel arch), Ali hardline to engine bay, ali hardline across bulkhead - flexi hoses to injectors - flexi hose out of last injector into pressure regulator - flexi line to bulkhead then ali hardline return back to the fuel tank.

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Hi JP,

I have the full Emerald EFI kit installed on my 6.

I use the original TR6 PI fuel tank, and Bosch pump and filter, as used on many TR6 Lucas injected cars (mine was running Lucas PI prior to going EFI).My pump is mounted in the spare wheel well area.

I use the latest diaphragm PRV, and that is it.  Pipe work and plumbing all the same.

Do you have any pictures of yours ?

 

Cheers.

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pump will be very noisy when fuel flow is limited. most likely as the car has been sat for a while rust or **** in the tank is restricting fuel flow to the pump. blocked filter etc. you need to check filters, hoses and tank outlet upstream of the pump. I wouldn't just chuck a new pump on it without knowing that the flow to the pump is adequate or you will just knacker the new pump.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I can't speak about the PI setup as I'm in the US. However, I have a EFI car (MS3) and had fueling issues. The first configuration was a HP pump on a swirl pot then to a HP filter, all in the trunk. Fuel line went around into T shirt area, to fuel rail, then pressure regulator, then a return back through t shirt area along the OEM carb fuel line routing. Fuel starvation in corners. Rerouted return into swirl pot. Overflow through swirl pot vent. Designed my own fuel tank, grafted swirl pot onto it and that worked. Except, pumping fuel forward through t shirt then back through it again, the fuel got wicked hot. When it got really hot, fuel pump was very noisy. Fabricated some flared bent sleeves which were then installed inside the cockpit over wheel arch, then down into B post, then forward inside sill, then out of sill toward frame. Another sleeve through outside frame rail. Pulled SS braided line through all the sleeves. Line connects to HP fuel filter in spare wheel well, and then a bulkhead AN fitting on a tab welded to inner frame rail. 3/8" hard line forward to another bulkhead fitting to SS braided line to fuel rail. Fuel runs pretty cool now. 

If I were to do this on a new project, I would design a tank with a submerged pump, going to a pressure regulator mounted on side of tank, return directly to tank, single HP line to the front of car. Run the manifold pressure line from intake back to regulator. 

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I have a

Tank - low pressure filter - low pressure pump - swirlpot - high pressure pump - high pressure filter - isolated fuel line thru t shirt - fuel rail with regulator - isolated return line thru t shirt - swirlpot.

I would be interested in a returnless system, but this requires some work. But sofar no issues.

Jochem

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Hi - do you have a name and whereabouts are you based?

As a number of people have already mentioned, I would check your fuel tank to make sure it's not the culprit - if it's an original tank, these are now 50+ years old, and they are having to survive in a much more hostile fuel environment these days so it's not surprising they are coming to the end of their lives, with rust and previous sealer attempts debonding often causing blockages etc.

If you find your tank is the issue, PM me as I can supply you with a brand new top quality UK made tank at a very good price

Cheers Rich

 

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This is the most recent one I've done. Previously always used the external Bosch 044 pump but thought I'd try a different method with this one. Working well at the moment, very quiet and no surge issues.

 

 

IMG-20200713-WA0005.jpg

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As it worked properly before and fails now

the setup seems to be okay and something in the line

tank, fuel filter, fuel hose, pressure regulator and back

seems to be broken.

 

Before search and fiddle look for a Register EFI member with

some skill living close to you. He will find the fault easily and it seems to be not

expensive. Would expect blocked line to filter, the filter itself, the pump

or the pressure regulator.

 

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On 7/29/2020 at 1:44 PM, Swissdadski said:

Hi there,

I have a Tr6 with EFI and Emerald ECU. I have owned it for a couple of years but am now in a position to try and sort it out. When I last was tinkering it started and ran fine, however when driving it it only ran for a mile or so before screaming from the boot and it spluttered to a halt.

i strongly suspect the fuel system so can any of you advise what the ideal set up would be? If you could give me an overview from tank to injectors (and back again) that would be ideal.

i have tried to read as much on the forum as I can and have a very little knowledge so treat me as a fool and you won’t be far wrong

Once I get the car to its new home I will be able to look at the system in more detail to be able to see how close my TR is to the ideal set up.

Thanks in advance

 

JP

I do not know where you are based? But I would get on to Emerald directly and ask them directly exactly what parts are required for their system. In the past they have been criticized for being not too helpful and not having a fitting service. A friend of mine has their system and said to me that they have vastly improved their customer service. Lastly I would have thought that a Bosch pump could be the wrong type of pump for their system as it might give too much flow and pressure?

Bruce

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I can not rate Emerald  high enough. They sorted out my install (2010) and after service  brilliant. They now can look at your/theirs ECU with your lap top plugged into the ECU and using their remote control program over the wi fi, take control of your lap top and adjust it from their base. Just magic and I have used this free service (only on their ECU) a few times and others and it always fascinates me.

Hope that helps.

Regards Harry TR5 Nutter

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Hi all,

Thanks for the responses thus far.

I am based down on the south coast in Hampshire, answer to the name of Jon but known as JP.

The car is not currently residing with me as I have not had a garage, I have just rectified that issue so it will be joining me shortly. Your answers have given me some clues so I will be looking at fuel flow to the pump and tank condition, although I do suspect fuel lines maybe too near the exhaust.

I will report back back findings, so wish me luck.

All the best 

Jon (JP)

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I have the complete Emerald set-up on my TR6. The customer service from Emerald was nothing short of excellent. They are very reactive to e-mails, and happy to assist where ever needed.

I am still using my original PI fuel tank and Bosch pump my car had when it was running Lucas PI.

We have done nothing different in this area or with the fuel tank. No swirl pots, etc.  If you open the boot it just looks like a regular TR6 (apart from the Bosch pump). 

My system has been fitted at least 3 years now, and nearly 20k miles with no issues, etc.

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I wouldn't have thought the Emarald would run at 105psi. Worth checking so you don't damage the unit.

However it sounds as if your fuel flow is restricted to ether in the tank/filter

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1 hour ago, Andy Moltu said:

I wouldn't have thought the Emarald would run at 105psi. Worth checking so you don't damage the unit.

However it sounds as if your fuel flow is restricted to ether in the tank/filter

Agreed, mine runs @ 43psi

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The pump just supplies the pressure the system is set (or restricted) to.

But potentially it can deliver much more pressure. For safety reasons every component in the system should be rated for this higher pressure. A blocked return or faulty regulator can suddenly Let the pressure increase to what the pump can supply.
But I guess we all considered this on our cars.

Cheers,
Waldi

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 8/16/2020 at 10:20 AM, mtrehy said:

This is the most recent one I've done. Previously always used the external Bosch 044 pump but thought I'd try a different method with this one. Working well at the moment, very quiet and no surge issues.

I have been considering do this, but, have not been able to find a donor unit.  Which donor car did you get yours from?  Did you have to modify the length of the unit?  

BTW it looks very stock.

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Not sure what you mean. I used the original tank as it was in good condition and a brand new pump. It's an early land rover v8 efi pump. Prc8318. Off the top of my head was less than £40

I had to lengthen the pump about 50mm so it reached the bottom of the tank but that only needed a bit of fuel hose and bit of scrap stainless bar. Nothing that takes special tools or more than 30 mins

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2 hours ago, mtrehy said:

Prc8318

 

2 hours ago, mtrehy said:

I had to lengthen the pump about 50mm so it reached the bottom of the tank but that only needed a bit of fuel hose and bit of scrap stainless bar

Perfect!  Thank you!

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