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Rodbr

TR2 new screen fitting.

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Gents,

Gathering parts for a new screen fitting.

I know there are rubber packers inside the frame to centralise the glass in the frame but they do not seem to be listed. Can some kind person provide measuurements of the said packers.I anticipate that they should be approx 1/4inch thick by approx 1/2 - 3/4 inches long glued into locations along top sides and bottom rail. 3 for toprail and bottom rail and 2 for the sides.

Any one care to confirm or advise accordingly.

Rod

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I'm not aware of any rubber packers inside the windscreen frame. Not saying there aren't but I have pulled two apart and not seen any rubber packing.

The windscreens on mine are located with windscreen sealant.

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I cut up an 'O' ring of a suitable diameter into a number of lengths to place around the glass.

Bob.

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Hi John,

I have taken two UK originals apart and they both have had the rubber blocks to keep the screen central and were installed with rubber tape as per the MOSS catalogue.

May be that the ones in Auz were screen sealed in place.

If you get it wrong the screen top frame may pull off the glass when the soft top retracts in cold weather  as it cools down. This was an issue particularly with Healeys I understand.

Hi Bob,

Do you happen toremember what length they were cut?

Rod

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No, but not critical surely, anywhere between 1" & 6" as long as the screen is supported at each end of all of the 4 sides, & perhaps in the center of the top & bottom rails.

Bob.

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Hi Bob,

Yep it is a bit. If it is too thick then the corners wont come close. Too little and the screen can move if you use the correct rubber seal.

No probs I'll do a bit of trial and error before committing to squeezing the frame together. It does get a one shot operation as the fitting usually needs a Spanish windlass arrangment.

Rod

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Rod. you asked about length, not thickness !!

Yes thickness matters, I really can't remember what I used. It would not take long to find the optimum with a bit of trial & error.

Bob.

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Hi Rod,

just collected my new screen kit from Rimmers and I have the frames all ready. There were only 3 of the blocks fitted in the top of the screen frame on one screen, and another I dismantled had none. I assume they were rubber at one time, but are now rock hard. Dimensions below. Each block was approx 1/2 an inch in length. I had a piece of the rubber and cork strip supplied with a gasket set for the rear main bearing cap and it is almost exactly the same size in cross section so am thinking of cutting that into bits and using that for spacers. I also have a selection of rubber and cork rocker box gaskets which are also a similar cross section (Austin A series, not TR).

Hope this helps, Ralph.

20200729_181118.jpg

20200729_181137.jpg

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Hi Ralph,

That's great just what I was looking for. so thats .633mm wide and  878mm deep. as my screen is faint and the number not clear.

RGDS

Rod

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Hi Rod.

For what it is worth I fitted a new screen about three years ago. The original screen was badly broken but more or less in one piece. I found that the new screen was not a good overall fit in the frame. To my astonishment the new screen was not as deep at it mid point as the one which I had removed, and the bottom corners were a slightly different profile. I did pack the screen out as suggested, but the bottom corners were only just able to fit the existing curve. So worth offering the original screen up to the new screen if you have one to check.

Good luck. Russell

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9 hours ago, Rodbr said:

Hi Ralph,

That's great just what I was looking for. so thats .633mm wide and  878mm deep. as my screen is faint and the number not clear.

RGDS

Rod

6.3 mm wide, and 8.78 deep.  as mine have gone rock hard you can assume that those figures are compressed, so 7 x 9 or 10mm might be acceptable for uncompressed items. Guess it would depend on how soft the rubber is that you use.

Ralph.

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Hi Ralph,

I seem to remember that the last time I did this they were solid and perhaps had a 1 or 2mm gap between the rubber gasket and block. The idea is just to stop the screen creeping not locate it rigidly as the stress on the edge of a laminated screen could cause a crack. Think of the length of the stanchion screws!!!!!! easy to crack the edge.

The issue is the shrinkage of the hood when well fitted and it cools down can and does pull the top of the frame, so if the frame sits too far one way you have a problem.

Thanks for all info anyway.

Rod.

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Rod, 

just been looking again at mine and the blocks sit sideways in the channel, so its the 6.3 measurement that locates the glass and the 8mm is the width of the channel. I fished out the spare rubber A series gasket I had in stock and it is exactly the same dimensions, so I am going to sacrifice that to make a load of spacers, going for 10,  3 at the top and bottom and 2 at each side between the plates for the side screws. 

Ralph.

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OK, spent this Saturday morning on the screen. After all the trepidation it was not as bad a job as I thought. I used a double sided tape used for holding vinyl flooring, this is very thin and basically just leaves an adhesive film behind when the tape is peeled off. I applied this to one side of the thin rubber glazing strip and was then able to wrap the rubber round the screen edge and stick it in place (after cleaning the screen ). I then used a product designed for chemical toilets called Thetford seal lubricant on the rubber, and was able to get the screen into the frame fairly easily, tapping the frame lightly here and there with a rubber mallet as required.

Hardest job so far has been fitting the top and bottom rubber seals. I used Stuarts method of pressing one side of the lip into the groove and teasing the other edge in with the back of a knife. Worked well, just takes a little patience.

Now I have had some lunch I am going back out to tackle fitting the stanchions.

20200801_094748.jpg

20200801_102212.jpg

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2 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

OK, spent this Saturday morning on the screen. After all the trepidation it was not as bad a job as I thought. I used a double sided tape used for holding vinyl flooring, this is very thin and basically just leaves an adhesive film behind when the tape is peeled off. I applied this to one side of the thin rubber glazing strip and was then able to wrap the rubber round the screen edge and stick it in place (after cleaning the screen ). I then used a product designed for chemical toilets called Thetford seal lubricant on the rubber, and was able to get the screen into the frame fairly easily, tapping the frame lightly here and there with a rubber mallet as required.

Hardest job so far has been fitting the top and bottom rubber seals. I used Stuarts method of pressing one side of the lip into the groove and teasing the other edge in with the back of a knife. Worked well, just takes a little patience.

Now I have had some lunch I am going back out to tackle fitting the stanchions.

20200801_094748.jpg

20200801_102212.jpg

If it went in easily then it`ll leak. With the correct seal it is a real struggle to fit the frame round but the glass will stay were it is and you wont get water wicking round the seal

Stuart.

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Seriously though,

it was the correct seal, at least it was the one supplied in the kit , and when I used the term "fitted easily", its all relative, just meant it wasn`t the pig of a job I was expecting. Didn`t need spanish windlass`s, 

1 hour ago, stuart said:

If it went in easily then it`ll leak. With the correct seal it is a real struggle to fit the frame round but the glass will stay were it is and you wont get water wicking round the seal

Stuart.

or sash clamps but it needed a good press on and the application of the mallet here and there. Anyway, its on now, I will have to wait and see.

20200801_173956.jpg

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