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Gearbox fitting


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Hi, refitting the gearbox. Having a nightmare trying to get the shaft into the clutch. Clutch lined up using an old shaft. Very difficult even to get the old shaft in to practice. It's this normal? Can the clutch plate be tightened too tight? Matt

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If you can't get the old shaft to go in and out easily by hand (stop sniggering at the back!),  the clutch plate probably isn't properly centralised. When I did it I found you have to keep making small adjustments with the cover just nipping the plate until the shaft slides very easily, then tighten the cover down and check again in case it has moved. It took me several attempts to get it right but it paid dividends as the g'box went straight on first go. 

Edited by RobH
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Hi Matt,

these can absolute pigs to get in. You can spend hours getting nowhere - stop for a cuppa and then it pops in  aaarrrggghhhhhh.

Do as RobH states.

Also ensure that the gap between engine and GB is as even as possible. Any 'on the cock' gap will not go in.

Consider having a jack under the sump and another under the GB

The GB needs to be in a gear so the the input shaft can be rotated from the output flange.

 

Roger

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1 hour ago, RogerH said:

Hi Matt,

these can absolute pigs to get in. You can spend hours getting nowhere - stop for a cuppa and then it pops in  aaarrrggghhhhhh.

Do as RobH states.

Also ensure that the gap between engine and GB is as even as possible. Any 'on the cock' gap will not go in.

Consider having a jack under the sump and another under the GB

The GB needs to be in a gear so the the input shaft can be rotated from the output flange.

 

Roger

As Roger says + 1 you’ll find it easier to turn the gearbox internals over by turning the gearbox out flange using a high gear eg 4th.

Micky

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If you jacked the engine under the sump when you put the gearbox out

you will not get it in in this position because the car body moved up while you worked in the car.

So the engine is more steep in the car.

Jack it up more and check like the other adviced the gap around the gearbox flange. It must be the same on 0:00 and at 6:00.

 

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It can help to place some extra long threaded studding between the holes in the bell housing and engine back plate to guide the box into position.

Tim

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I came up with a solution , the engine plate matches the profile of the gearbox bell housing.(flat bottomed). I jacked up the rear of the engine slightly  then placed a six inch long platform under engine plate and gearbox drop engine down. Remove gearbox mount ,bolts and prop shaft then slide out the box. Fitting in reverse place box on platform and slide in turning output flange. Did this single handed  very easily.

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+1

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You lifted the engine under the sump?

The hole car and rear mount followed the next days "up", pushed by the coil springs.

This is why the engine moved relativ to the rear mount "down" and caused your rear mount problems.

Perhaps interesting for others to know before doing that.

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