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Replace hose set. That will be an easy job


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Hi I wonder if somebody can help me please. I'm a recent new owner and not a mechanic so forgive me if I am being naive. . When I purchased the car in March I never liked the look of the top hoses. The hose from the thermostat looked like a universal type affair so when I developed a leak from my heater hose into the foot well I decided in my wisdom to replace the whole set with silicone. I ordered a set for a fuel injected car as mine is a 1971 but fitted with triple webers. Well what should have been an easy job has turned into a bit of a nightmare. I cant seem to get the top hose over the lip of the steel pipe even after fighting with it for hours and my new top hose doesn't look like its going to fit at all either despite trying all permutations.  My questions then are

Should the silicone hoses be so bloody tight to fit over the lip of the steel pipe? If so any tips to help me?

What is different about my car that the top hose doesn't suit? Solutions? Have I a different rad as part of the weber conversion? 

Also should I leave the tape on the rad that has been put around the electric fan sensor? I have been using gasket seal on the other joints.

Any other help, tips or advice gratefully received

Regards Richard 

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Richard 

Most TR6 rads I'm aware of don't have that 90 degree bend in the top hose outlet coming out of the radiator header tank, so maybe you have an odd rad with non standard sized outlets - those capillary fan sensors  which go under the hose are more often than not a nightmare to keep watertight.

What you need is one of these and the hoses should fit and you wont get any leaks!

Cheers Rich

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Have to say not seen a 90 deg bend on the rad outlets like that before, the hose looks right. If you want to have a look at another car I'm not that far from you in Whitchurch (near Aylesbury) 

Oh forgot to say when fitting coolant hoses washing up liquid is your best friend !

Edited by Graham
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Hi Richard, 

I changed my radiator about 10 years ago (long story). Have the old one in the garage, as far as I know nothing wrong with it. Mine is a 72 cp model which is  as far as I am aware is the correct one. I am in Bletchley and your welcome to it for a small donation to help the heroes.

Not to clever on PM contact but I'm sure that a meeting can be arranged. 

Mick 

 

 

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Simply get a coat hanger or metal rod bend to the shape and length you require then of to a local motor factor and find one to suit, also the capillary type kenlow is about the best you can get easy to get or make up your own seal.  

Edited by ntc
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I have always just stuffed the capillary sensor between the fins of the radiator matrix. Works fab and no leaks.

tim

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7 hours ago, Richmac said:

Hi I wonder if somebody can help me please. I'm a recent new owner and not a mechanic so forgive me if I am being naive. . When I purchased the car in March I never liked the look of the top hoses. The hose from the thermostat looked like a universal type affair so when I developed a leak from my heater hose into the foot well I decided in my wisdom to replace the whole set with silicone. I ordered a set for a fuel injected car as mine is a 1971 but fitted with triple webers. Well what should have been an easy job has turned into a bit of a nightmare. I cant seem to get the top hose over the lip of the steel pipe even after fighting with it for hours and my new top hose doesn't look like its going to fit at all either despite trying all permutations.  My questions then are

Should the silicone hoses be so bloody tight to fit over the lip of the steel pipe? If so any tips to help me?

What is different about my car that the top hose doesn't suit? Solutions? Have I a different rad as part of the weber conversion? 

Also should I leave the tape on the rad that has been put around the electric fan sensor? I have been using gasket seal on the other joints.

Any other help, tips or advice gratefully received

Regards Richard 

IMG_20200724_151749461.jpg

That radiator is North American spec that had carbs .  The hose connection was done using a different thermostat housing.  

Here is the layout.  I have a NOS one. For US spec car somewhere if you get stuck.

http://trf.zeni.net/webcatalog/specials7.17/16.php

Cheers 

Peter W

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Well as suspected a font of knowledge here thank you all for your help. I wonder how I managed to end up with a north American rad that they only made for one year fitted to my British car? You couldn't make it up. It must have been hard work to get it so wrong. These rads must be so rare. I will look at putting the correct rad back in I think while I have all the hoses of.   

Tim do you have a picture of where you locate your capillary sensor please I may copy you.

Regards Richard

To   

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1 hour ago, Richmac said:

Well as suspected a font of knowledge here thank you all for your help. I wonder how I managed to end up with a north American rad that they only made for one year fitted to my British car? You couldn't make it up. It must have been hard work to get it so wrong. These rads must be so rare. I will look at putting the correct rad back in I think while I have all the hoses of.   

Tim do you have a picture of where you locate your capillary sensor please I may copy you.

Regards Richard

To   

You have a copper radiator that looks original Triumph. I wouldn't replace it until I  could source another with the correct nozzles in copper and preferably a recored original.

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Mike, if you replace the radiator, then it might be worth recoring to a 4-core, I did and it helps with cooling. It cost about £90 as far as I can recall.  I have silIcone hoses, they are snug and leak free when clamped properly. I seem to recall the heater hoses being a bit ‘drippy’ and needing tightening after a couple of runs. Also, take care to get the air out when you refill, lift the front, fill, run at c2000rpm for two or three cycles should do it.

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Richard, apologies, I got the name wrong. Just thought of another point. I refilled with a waterless Coolant, I know it’s a bit belt and braces, but it helps if the car is stored for long periods and also has better cooling properties...just a thought.

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5 hours ago, Richmac said:

Well as suspected a font of knowledge here thank you all for your help. I wonder how I managed to end up with a north American rad that they only made for one year fitted to my British car? You couldn't make it up. It must have been hard work to get it so wrong. These rads must be so rare. I will look at putting the correct rad back in I think while I have all the hoses of.   

Tim do you have a picture of where you locate your capillary sensor please I may copy you.

Regards Richard

To   

The genuine factory original late NAS radiator was on clearance from Unipart/Standard Triumph for about 15 quid at one time.  I recall selling lots to TR garages and private owners.

That is probably how it ended up in an UK car.

 

PS This is the correct thermostat housing outlet for that radiator  Pt No UKC5342

https://www.ebay.com/itm/TRIUMPH-TR6-75-76-OEM-THERMOSTAT-HOUSING-BOLTS-/133363591206

Cheers

Peter W

 

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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I am in no way implying that this is the offending receipt as I don't know..but if it is theres a nice bit of profit. Please let me know if posting this is inappropriate and I will delete

IMG_20200725_153236520.jpg

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Peter is correct. The thermostat cover used with the late NA radiator is different-the hose fitting should point to the front of the car and a different hose is used. These covers aren't available (AFIK) new and good used ones are expensive. Anyway, it looks like someone fitted the late NA radiator to an earlier car by using a flexible universal hose. Too bad you are stuck with an expensive silicone hose that can't be used.

Berry

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4 hours ago, Richmac said:

I am in no way implying that this is the offending receipt as I don't know..but if it is theres a nice bit of profit. Please let me know if posting this is inappropriate and I will delete

IMG_20200725_153236520.jpg

We were selling the cheap radiators in the late 1980's.  So I think the wrong radiator was supplied.   

To recore yours would mean getting a replacement top tank from the correct earlier series cars.   Lots of them around as new radiators are available.  The hassle is getting it recorded with, as wisely suggested, a high cooling efficiency core would make sense.  Just get an old radiator as a donor.    Put a request in the under £250 wanted/sales area of this forum.  Got to be worth a tenner to someone for a ruined radiator with good tanks.

Cheers 

Peter W

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8 hours ago, Sill Gap Problem said:

Richard, apologies, I got the name wrong. Just thought of another point. I refilled with a waterless Coolant, I know it’s a bit belt and braces, but it helps if the car is stored for long periods and also has better cooling properties...just a thought.

Nope - just the opposite I'm afraid.  Nothing can cool better than water as nothing else has a comparable specific heat capacity. Pure glycol is about half as good at shifting heat. 

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42 minutes ago, RobH said:

 

Nope - just the opposite I'm afraid.  Nothing can cool better than water as nothing else has a comparable specific heat capacity. Pure glycol is about half as good at shifting heat. 

Rob, just reading off the product website, seems they think it has better coolant properties: 

“unique formulation and heat transfer properties mean your car will run cooler, whether it’s being driven hard or sitting in traffic“

I read the label and actually, it has ‘an exact amount of water in it’, so it isn’t waterless as I stated, my bad.  The car is definitely not reaching the same high temps as previous, though whether that is down to this stuff, or the recored rad I’m not sure.

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Michael, my bad, but I mis-stated the spec, the product (4 Life) has water in it, as the company says “an exact amount”. I’m not sure about its combustability, but it says on their website “Forlife is Non-flammable and does not ignite.” I doubt I’ll be taking it out though, it was expensive. I did just check Evans website (not the product I have) and it states on there that their product is no more flammable than any water/ antifreeze mix, I haven’t checked that out, but it’s what they state. Interestingly they say both liquids can be ignited. Just shows, worth checking out.

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53 minutes ago, Sill Gap Problem said:

Rob, just reading off the product website, seems they think it has better coolant properties: 

 

Better than the waterless stuff then which is real 'snake-oil' and is indeed flammable, but it can be no better at cooling than a conventional water/antifeeze mix. 

This thread probably isn't the right place for a continued discussion and there has been an awful lot said on the topic in many threads in the past. If you are happy with it I guess that is all that matters, but marketing blurb needs to be read with a degree of scepticism. :unsure:

 

Edited by RobH
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