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Fitting ploy bushes


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The guy on the video has big problems to get the poly bushes in the wishbones - eaven with a vice!

When you watch the video you hear 2 metallic "clonks" at 3:14 and 3:16, I guess this is because he has the steel bushes already in the poly bushes!

Let the steel bushes out that momen and press only the poly bushes in, finally the steel bushes.

Use a drilling machine as a manual press (engine switched off).

Therefore fit a piece of M12 bar or a pipe as a guide in the drill chuck and some silikon grease.

Or a coned bush and a big screw driver. The bushes are in in about 3 seconds, photos I stored here for you.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xrtVGPg9gWCU1Sso8

Edited by Z320
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A new use for a pedestal drill I like it Waldi good thinking ! The Australian polybushes I fitted were a tight fit and I ended up using a press the same way as Waldi- if you make sure you have plenty of the supplied silicon grease on the outside of the bush and then as you are pressing it in don't worry if it's at an angle just keep going and if there's an extra pair of hands ask that person to try and straighten the bush it helps, I did this with a friend and between us we got all the bushes in you just have to persevere and you will get there - they do kind of pop once they get through haha.

Michael

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On 7/23/2020 at 9:36 PM, michaeldavis39 said:

Are you using a threaded bar?  I would recommend you do it like in this video:

 

Michael

The guy in the video did not assemble this correctly as the trunnion is rotating on the bolt, it should not do this as the trunnion should rotate together with the bolt, if not the trunnion will wear oval. The trunnion, four steel washers, both steel bushes, the bolt and nut have to be one locked unit.

Magnus

Edited by TRseks
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Billy, like others, lube, threaded rod, a couple of large washers and sockets and a vice. Between and betwixt that lot it will work. I found the key was getting everything square and then even pressure worked I just fit Super Flex all around, you’ll like and notice the difference.  

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33 minutes ago, TRseks said:

 The trunnion, four steel washers, both steel bushes, the bolt and nut have to be one locked unit.

So how do you ensure that this happens then?? I havent checked mine but i assembled it as per the powerflex instructions im assuming they were right.

Michael

Edited by michaeldavis39
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By assemble the parts on the work bench and not down on the floor.

Then you can have a close look, the parts talk to you and explain themself most about.

There are also other thinks I do not agree with on his video.

Edited by Z320
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7 hours ago, TRseks said:

The guy in the video did not assemble this correctly as the trunnion is rotating on the bolt, it should not do this as the trunnion should rotate together with the bolt, if not the trunnion will wear oval. The trunnion, four steel washers, both steel bushes, the bolt and nut have to be one locked unit.

Magnus

Thanks Magnus,
That is a good hint.

Waldi

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9 hours ago, michaeldavis39 said:

So how do you ensure that this happens then?? I havent checked mine but i assembled it as per the powerflex instructions im assuming they were right.

Michael

I spoke to the team at Superflex, they informed me that you do not require the inner washers (next to trunnion) when installing those bushes. I had really struggled getting them in, in the end I omitted them as instructed.

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Don't press the poly bushes in with the steel bush already in.

To treat your sockets with love and care don't use them direct in a vice.

When you fit the shims back as you found them they are probably wrong!

Realise the falcrum pin is the other way around at least on TR4As.

If you use poly bushes on the lower wishbone - why not on the upper wishbones?

The upper ones move too easy on this video.

The bolt throught the trunnion is the wrong way, the dust cover of the brake disc tells you the correct way.

Washers, spacers, trunnion must be one locked unit and must slide in the nylon bushes.

Therefore the castled nut must be locked tight!

To compress the coil spring first but a wooden lath between the dome and the upper wishbons to have them vertical.

This avoids scretching the spring pan on the frame, then you don't have to use a hammer.

If you use a hammer something is wrong, stop going on this way and use your hammer for nails.

Don't fix the steering stop "anyway", on my TR4A this is drilled out of center.

Before he fitted the brake pads it would be a nice idea to clean the disc from grinding dust and grease.

This video horrifies me.

 

Don't believe Superflex, what they told you is wrong.

I know what they sell, I still have a set of it in my workshop, it cost me 50 GBP + VAT + shipping.

It is what they have and what they sell - but it is not the correct part to be used on your TR4A-6.

The gun metall cast of the trunnion cannot stand the pressure of the small surface of steel bush,

you need a hardened steel washer between. NOT one of this zinc caoted ones made of mild steel, please.

Ask me why I know.

Edited by Z320
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Z320 I'm asking why you know. I have fitted superflex polybushes as they instructed, car is only a rolling chassis at the moment but now I'm getting conflicting information. Also I can't see what difference it makes whether the bolt through trunnion goes through one way or the other. Why have you not fitted the superflex polybushes if you've purchased them? The supplier I purchased from are very well known in the UK and they have fitted many many of these polybushes without problem

Michael

Edited by michaeldavis39
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Hi Michael,

the hex head of the bolt has to be in driving direction.

If not turn the steering full to the left and check how the castled nut fits to the "window" in the disc brake dust cover, next right.

What you see should be self explaining.

BTW on the video they have been in the correct direction before he dismantled the front axle.

To show you the Superflex parts I have to look tomorrow in my scrap  boxes.

Ciao, Marco

 

Edited by Z320
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Interesting that on Moss front suspension parts breakdown the bolt head is the other way around- this is what I actually followed and didn't notice any problem with window in brake shield- I will have another look this week but I'm sure it was all fine- I hope I'm right as I don't fancy taking that bolt out and turning it around anyway.

Michael

Screenshot_20200725-214843.png

Edited by michaeldavis39
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Billy, apologies, the post topic has moved a little. 

Marco/ Michael, the trunnion bolt direction is a potential issue for me, I have one going in each direction and I don’t fancy changing the one that is ‘wrong’. I have turned the steering as suggested and I can’t see an issue. Do you believe it critical to have the bolt in the correct direction?

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The dust cover has a circular "window" to the front for the flat hex head of the bolt,

and a longer oval " window" to the rear for the higher casteled nut and the going through end of the bolt.

I don't know if it causes any problems to have them the wrong way in because I realized this and fitted them correct.

What could happen is: the end of the bolt touches the dust cover and bends it / presses it on the brake dics - on full left / right.

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I see what you mean Marco now I've looked at my assembly photos but I had the steering straight ahead the whole time- if it's going to be a problem I'm not going to leave it like that but in my defence I followed the Moss schematic and that clearly shows bolt in backwards doesn't it - brake caliper mounted on the rear which is correct for nearside in UK. At least I have got the hardened steel washers not zinc plated soft ones right Marco!

Michael

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