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Hi, I’m new to this and my knowledge of TRs is weak at best, I’ve now got a 73 PI (survivor). The points/ends have been replaced but it’s been suggested I replace with electric ignition for more reliability in future.  Would this impact the originality of the car, or is this pretty standard practice?  Thanks in advance 

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Hi Dan,

welcome to the forum.

The little electronic 'points' do help with reliability, especially if you do plenty of miles. They never need adjustment.

If you popped your survivor into a show then you would be marked down for the modern Tech. 

However it is so easy to replace the 'Tech' with standard points even when parked at a show.

You will see plenty of modules on EBay for about £30 (+ another £30 for a spare) Cheap module

or you could go posh and get a lumenition Magtronic module for £100+ (+ £100+ for a spare)  Module

Points are apprx £5.

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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Dan -  note that the modules in Roger's  links above are for different distributors (Delco or Lucas respectively) so you need to get the right one if you go that way (as many owners on here have). These electronic modules do help with reliability right up to the time they fail B)  (ask me how I know).  Beware that some seem to be picky about the coil and HT leads they are used with too - read the maker's recommendations carefully.   

Points do need adjustment from time to time but are very cheap to replace after thousands of miles use, and work just as well provided you get the proper ones (plus condenser and rotor arm) from the Distributor Doctor.  It takes all of 20 minutes a couple of times a year to keep them in good order. Again, many users on here have stuck with them or even returned to them after trying the electronics route. 

"You pays your money..........." as they say. 

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1 hour ago, DanC said:

Hi, I’m new to this and my knowledge of TRs is weak at best, I’ve now got a 73 PI (survivor). The points/ends have been replaced but it’s been suggested I replace with electric ignition for more reliability in future.  Would this impact the originality of the car, or is this pretty standard practice?  Thanks in advance 

Hi 

It may surprise you but a good set of points are far more reliable than electronic units cheap or expensive 

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12 minutes ago, ntc said:

Hi 

It may surprise you but a good set of points are far more reliable than electronic units cheap or expensive 

By good points do you mean the 32 ozs Cooper S points ?  Original Lucas, not green box.

this sort of thing.

http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/GCS3001.aspx

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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1 hour ago, ntc said:

Hi 

It may surprise you but a good set of points are far more reliable than electronic units cheap or expensive 

You must have bought some kak solid-state units to make a statement like that.
Or you have no electronic knowledge?

Yes, it would surprise me.

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13 hours ago, SpitFireSIX said:

You must have bought some kak solid-state units to make a statement like that.
Or you have no electronic knowledge?

Yes, it would surprise me.

I have known quite a few instances of electronics going down including the very expensive 123 distributors. Point being then your stuck on the side of the road, points can be adjusted and you`ll get home. Also lots of people fit electronic gizmos in the mistaken belief that it will fix a worn out distributor, it doesnt

Stuart.

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Over the years, I've had two instances of electronic ignition failing. They were from reputable, well known makers and both relied on optical triggers.

Both were fitted to cars known for high engine bay temperatures, one on a Stag and the other on my GT6. It's tempting to assume that high temperature caused these failures.

Since then I've fitted Hall effect magnetic ignition, including on the GT6, and these have been reliable over many years and tens of thousands of miles.

For my money, Hall effect have the expected benefits of not needing to adjust points gap or timing and are reliable.

Nigel

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Ah but then Nigel, I and others have had well-known brands of hall-effect modules fail too. Nothing is 100% reliable.

In over 50 years of driving I have had one set of points fail (deformed plastic cam) and one Hall module which just died after a couple of weeks use. Not much of a sample I agree but it doesn't make me feel that electronics are any better for reliability. 

The point about not having to maintain them is a fair one - but what about the rest of the distributor? You still have to keep that clean and lubricated (or perhaps people with electronic units tend to forget that bit?). 

 

Edited by RobH
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Neither electronic ignition nor points and condenser ignition can claim to be 100% reliable. 

On balance electronic modules are more reliable than points & condenser. Points are designed in the knowledge that the will wear and burn. 

When points & condenser fail sometimes they can be readjusted to get you home, electronic modules when they fail they can’t be fixed at the roadside.

The financial equation is do you get enough life out of an electronic module to work out cheaper than the sets of points (and fitting time) you will get through in that time.

The next question is what do you carry in event of failure? Spare points and condenser or a spare electronic module. Some of the cheaper electronic modules are so cheap that it is a realistic option to carry a spare instead of points. 

 

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This question has been asked a thousand times, and there are various views on it.

 

My take as follows: If you're not doing huge mileage each year, then a good quality standard rebuilt distributor and contact breaker points & condenser (Distributor Doctor), and more than adequate for your car.

If you're wanting less maintenance and wanting to extract evert last drop of power and want to retain a dizzy (as opposed to a coil pack), then a 123-tune dizzy are a fine piece of kit.  I had this set-up for years, for thousands of miles both UK and Europe, and never had an issue, and never carried the original dizzy in case of an issue.

 

Good luck.

 

Cheers. 

 

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Ive done hundreds of thousands of miles on points in various cars over the years with no real problems other than the occasional duff condenser and as to maintenance it only takes a few minutes to check or even change them while your waiting for the oil to drain during oil changes  You wont get any more power out of an engine with electronics over points on a properly built distributor unless your in the 6K and over rev range.

Stuart.

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4 minutes ago, stuart said:

Ive done hundreds of thousands of miles on points in various cars over the years with no real problems other than the occasional duff condenser and as to maintenance it only takes a few minutes to check or even change them while your waiting for the oil to drain during oil changes  You wont get any more power out of an engine with electronics over points on a properly built distributor unless your in the 6K and over rev range.

Stuart.

Can't agree more Stuart, now Martin can supply quality points & rotor arms i go for conventional set up!

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On 7/25/2020 at 8:33 PM, Sill Gap Problem said:

I went Pertronix Ignitor and Flamethrower coil, maintenance free, fit and forget almost. I never thought this question would throw up so much debate...it’s funny.

Quite. I just had my distributor reconditioned by Martin and asked if I should go back to points from electronic. After asking which electronic type I had (Pertronix) he said I should stay with that. Good enough for me. BTW the Pertronix has been on the car for 25k miles, and probably ten years, with no problem or adjustment.

YMMV,
John

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1 minute ago, JohnC said:

Quite. I just had my distributor reconditioned by Martin and asked if I should go back to points from electronic. After asking which electronic type I had (Pertronix) he said I should stay with that. Good enough for me. BTW the Pertronix has been on the car for 25k miles, and probably ten years, with no problem or adjustment.

YMMV,
John

But Pertronix do fail mine lasted only 6 years before it went fut? The flamethrower coil did not last much longer before that went fut? I took my Lumenition off after 30 years as I thought that I was on borrowed time and it was replaced by the Pertronix? A bad decision!

Bruce.

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3 minutes ago, astontr6 said:

But Pertronix do fail mine lasted only 6 years before it went fut?

Mine only lasted three weeks.  Returned it for a refund and re-fitted the points. 

Edited by RobH
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I fitted a Sparkrite 2000 electronic ignition to my TR6 in 1982/3 and it is still working. It uses the existing points as the trigger but with only a small current so the points last for years and years. Great value for money.

I have had a Pertronix hall effect sensor on my TR3 for the last 7 years, still working.

Mick

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10 hours ago, JohnC said:

Quite. I just had my distributor reconditioned by Martin and asked if I should go back to points from electronic. After asking which electronic type I had (Pertronix) he said I should stay with that. Good enough for me. BTW the Pertronix has been on the car for 25k miles, and probably ten years, with no problem or adjustment.

YMMV,
John

+1

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