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Clutch Hydraulics Problem


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Keith

If put a piece of tube as an extension onto the clutch lever and push it rearwards, against the spring pressure, if you release it does it come back to same position you started, this should confirm if the release bearing is coming back and sliding on the gearbox snout, with the pressure from the clutch diaphragm/spring.

John

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Hi All

Now firstly let me say I’ve not tested anything on a running engine and will try that tomorrow to see if it will move under its own power.

So thanks for all the responses and while one specific response does not necessarily give a definitive answer just reading different opinions and thoughts is really useful as they may and this time did trigger trying something.

The outcome is my clutch system now seems to work exactly as I expected and hopefully as it should.:D

So cheers all, shows the power of the forum as I really was stuck and wasn’t sure what to do next

Thanks   Keith

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How did you get on? To Stuart's question re pushrod length: You can test that by mounting the slave from the back (I know, surface not machined, but bear with me). If the clutch then works, you need a longer pushrod. I have no idea of its history, but my 6 came with a slave mounted from behind, but its mounting flange was machined front and back. Took me ages to work out what was wrong when I fitted a TRW slave... Hope this make sense.

J

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Hi All

Well after getting the clutch to seem to work as expected all seemed good.

So given i have some space on the drive i attempted to move a little under its own power.

And.....well it all seems as I hoped, moving backwards and forwards, stopping and starting.

Now ok its only up and down the drive so hardly a road test but thats the next step.

But i'll need to fit a couple of things to make it road legal, like tyres less than 25 years old with tread and no cracks and oh a windscreen that kind of thing.

But at least things are going in the right direction.

Cheers   Keith

 

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