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A knocking and a vibration from around the propshaft has provoked me into renewing the cv joints at both ends of the propshaft on my 3A. Not a difficult job but fastidious. Took about 1 1/2 hours on the bench this morning. Incidentally I got the propshaft out fairly easily without removing the gb cover.
Having disassembled everything I decided to clean out the sliding splines. With the dust cap removed the cork seal just fellapart, judging from the amount of grease around the walls of the gearbox cover, it wasn’t doing much of a job, anyway. As I don’t recall changing it when I rebuilt the car in 1978, it may well be original.

A quick look on our usual suppliers sites shows it to be unavailable, however a visit to one of our larger diy stores was rewarded by my finding a basin washer 32/40 x 2mm in  neoprene or something similiar. The measured diameter of the tired cork washer was very similiar but 6mm thick so I have put in 3. We shall see if the arrangement seals anything!

However, I foolishly failed to mark the relative positions of the yoke and the shaft. I have found the arrow on the yoke but not on the shaft. As the rigid yokes at either end have to be aligned it can only be put together in two different positions. Can anybody with a spare propshaft under the bench have a looks and tell me where the arrow on the rear part can be found?

james

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Sorry, but I still haven’t got it.

Roger - My thanks for sorting out the terminology and the link.

Ed - I believe that the propshafts were identical from TR2 through to TR6. 
I have the rigid yokes in phase but what do you mean by rh yoke. I also don’t understand the 90° bit

james

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If you give it a good clean you should still find an arrow on each section of the sliding portion.

Stuart.

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Thanks Stuart. The whole is covered in two coats of 1978 Hammerite which is a lot harder  to remove than the 2020 formula, even with a cutting brush!

Hence myappeal for an approximate guide to where to find it

james

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James this video shews the 'phasing' of the yokes at each end of the shaft.  One from the link Roger gave.

Get it wrong and the legendary TR smoothness will be out the window along with the Universal Joints in no time at all. 

https://www.google.com/search?q=prop+shaft+yoke+alignment&oq=prop+shaft+yoke+alignment&aqs=chrome..69i57.6323j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_WRwTX53nD9K31fAPuL6Q6Ak31

Cheers

Peter W

 

 

 

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Thanks Piwi

I have got that bit right - well nearly, since it can be put together 180° out. I’m having a strong drink right now to encourage me to follow Stuart’s suggestionto go looking for arras!

james

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Dear James,

Have a look at Section K of the TR2/3 WSM or Plate Q in the TR2/3 Parts Book - both have nice clear pictures.

Bon chance, mon ami!

Ian Cornish

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They sure are - those on the ‘fixed’ half of mine seem to be non- existent. Oh well, I shall have to fit it up and see if I am 180° out - there are 16 splines. I can’t think why Triumph engineers didn’t use a foolproof system with one larger spline. Maybe it was more expensive than employing an apprentice to scribe every propshaft.

But thanks, it gives me an area to indicate to those with better sight than me, where it might be found!

james

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Hi James,

you cannot be 180 degrees out for smooth running (90 degrees would not be good) but the (im-)balance may be affected. So if you still experience vibrations despite having it installed in the proper orientation (angle) as Ed shows above I would take it to a shop for balancing. 
Waldi

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Yes Waldi, I am very much aware of that. As one always says, it was working perfectly (for 46 years) before without vibrations.

If it vibrates, when I put it back, then I shall just take it out and rotate by 180°!
 

james

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