thore.bergsaker Posted July 17, 2020 Report Share Posted July 17, 2020 (edited) Hello, I have a question. There are two TR3's I am looking at. One 55 model TR3 with a big mouth conversion and a 61 TR3A. They are both equally priced, about 20 000 GBP. The 55 is overall very good, but with a slight gap between bonnet and the wheel fender. The 61 has the 2.1 l engine with overdrive on 3rd and 4th gear. The 61 has a galvanized body, and the paint has peeled off in places. It also has a vinyl hardtop to go with it. Both drives and brakes well. I am at a loss which one to buy, and which one would be the best value. Are there significant improvements from TR3 to TR3A, does the slightly bigger engine, the overdrive and the available hardtop on the TR3A make it a better buy? I am not very concerned with the peeling paint, I can sort that out and I dont need a mint car. Any opinons on which to go for? Edited July 17, 2020 by thore.bergsaker@gmail.com Forgot to write. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
2long Posted July 17, 2020 Report Share Posted July 17, 2020 (edited) If the 55 has Lockheed drums, hubs and master cylinder, that could be an issue due to weaker axle and parts availability. The 3A overdrive is huge, both for collector value and fun (is it a factory o/d or added?). A 55 small mouth with overdrive is certainly desirable, but I think the 61 sounds more reasonable. Of course, body condition is paramount, assuming no major chassis issues. Dan Edited July 17, 2020 by 2long Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thore.bergsaker Posted July 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2020 It is an original electrical overdrive as far as I know. A little black button on the left side of the dashboard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted July 18, 2020 Report Share Posted July 18, 2020 Welcome to the forum. Ordinarily the small mouth TR3 would be the most desirable but since it has a TR3a nose then cosmetically they are very similar from 10ft. The actual 3a has exterior door handles and the actual 3 probably has the factory mounts for aeroscreens if that is important to you. The overdrive is huge especially if you do any highway driving. Mostly though all those things can be sorted and I would go for the one with the best body and if what I really wanted was a small mouth TR3 I would buy the TR3 and find the correct apron for it. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted July 18, 2020 Report Share Posted July 18, 2020 (edited) Chassis condition is the main consideration. The back end is always a problem. On my 3A I had to hang the exhaust off the boot floor in the end. It needed a new chassis which took many years to fit and rebuild. It would probably cost more than the car is worth if you had a specialist do it for you. The Girling brakes and the o/d help you to decide to go for the later one once you have the chassis checked. My Moss catalogue shows a price £1,633 for a small mouth panel. Will it fit ??? It is unusual to have the body galvanised and it could be a problem with new paint. The chassis may also be galvanised which could be a plus. Good luck, Richard & B. Edited July 18, 2020 by Richardtr3a Adding price of the new panel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thore.bergsaker Posted July 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2020 Thanks for replying. I went for the 61 model. It has a few paint spots to be fixed but it felt better on the road, steering and brakes were a lot better. Next thing is new wheels and tires. The wife wants to drive, and I need it to be as easy on the steering wheel as practically possible. What is the smallest recommended rim width? 4" or 4.5"? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted July 18, 2020 Report Share Posted July 18, 2020 9 minutes ago, thore.bergsaker@gmail.com said: Thanks for replying. I went for the 61 model. It has a few paint spots to be fixed but it felt better on the road, steering and brakes were a lot better. Next thing is new wheels and tires. The wife wants to drive, and I need it to be as easy on the steering wheel as practically possible. What is the smallest recommended rim width? 4" or 4.5"? Welcome to TR ownership. Post us some photos if you can. Original steel wheels were 4". Wire wheels come with either 48 spokes (4" rim) or 60 spoke (4.5" rim) The limitation on tyre size is the hole you have to keep the spare wheel in. The regular tyre size would probably be 155 x 80 x 15 but 165 section is often used because of price and availability. Again be sure it will go in the spare wheel hole! To lighten the steering there are a couple of routes. 1. Stay with the steering box and renew the relay rubber blocs and pins (silentbloc and pin 105063 or track control pin kit) with phosphor bronze arrangements https://www.revingtontr.com/product/105063uk/name/track-control-pin-kit-2-x-105063u-bush-pb and perhaps fit a bronze bushed steering idler. Ensure the vertical post lower trunions and all ball joints are fully lubricated. Consider the Revington TR improved Ackerman angle steering levers - they really work, and take away that skipping on bumpy corners problem. https://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr3314k/name/steering-geometry-imp-kit-tr2-3b 2. The other route is a steering rack conversion - some are good some are horrid but they all mean your quirky centre horn push and indicator assembly in the centre of the steering wheel will be compromised. The item is either removed completely and other switches are added or a slip ring set up is used. With the slip ring set up the horn push assembly will then always rotate with the steering wheel and the indicator will not self cancel. Originally it is held fixed from rotating by the stator tube and lower olive and clamp nut, the rotation of the steering wheel actuates the self cancelling indicator mechanism. Enjoy your TR Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted July 18, 2020 Report Share Posted July 18, 2020 When working properly the TR3 steering is not that bad at speeds above parking speeds. You have a lot of leverage with that big steering wheel and lots of elbow room with the low cut doors. The thing I notice more than the effort needed to turn the wheels is the 1920's steering geometry especially the lack of castor. There is no relaxing, you have to steer the whole time. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted July 18, 2020 Report Share Posted July 18, 2020 The Revington mods Peter mentions are simple, cost effective and work, add the adjustable steering box top plate and you have a nice car that steers very nicely. Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DavidBee Posted July 18, 2020 Report Share Posted July 18, 2020 2 hours ago, iain said: Add the adjustable steering box top plate and you have a nice car that steers very nicely. I would only add good quality 165 tyres, easier for steering. Many fit wider ones. I have compromised for 175s, Bridgestone Weathercontrol. Many swear by Vredesteins, either Sprint Classics or the more reasonably priced T Trac 2, 165-80-15 is the size. The Bridgestones have lower profile but excellent on wet and snow. Sturdy. 175-65-15 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John McCormack Posted July 19, 2020 Report Share Posted July 19, 2020 I have original steering on both TR2s with the Revington kits. They are very good just a little heavy at parking speeds. I have just put 175 tyres on my daily driver TR2 after 40 years of 165s. If anything the steering is a bit lighter with the new 175s, the old tyres were very old and worn. 175s weren't economically available down under previously. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
2long Posted July 19, 2020 Report Share Posted July 19, 2020 (edited) I go with 155 tyres, which was stock for my 2 and which provides lighter steering, along with 28 -30 psi in front and 30 psi in the rear. Most folks go for the wider tyres for grip etc, but I like the 155s. Dan Edited July 19, 2020 by 2long Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John McCormack Posted July 19, 2020 Report Share Posted July 19, 2020 3 hours ago, 2long said: I go with 155 tyres, which was stock for my 2 and which provides lighter steering, along with 28 -30 psi in front and 30 psi in the rear. Most folks go for the wider tyres for grip etc, but I like the 155s. Dan I thought of 155s for my long door car but went with the 165s I knew. In hindsight the 155s on the original 4" steel wheels would have been nice. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thore.bergsaker Posted July 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2020 Thanks for all your replies, much appreciated! I tried to add some photos, but the maximum size does not allow me to post anything, even if the actual size is less than 4 mb... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roy53 Posted July 19, 2020 Report Share Posted July 19, 2020 1955 will not be a 3 Roy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted July 19, 2020 Report Share Posted July 19, 2020 Could be, my '3 (TS9551) was made on 16th December 1955 (but 1st registered in1956) Bob,. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 19, 2020 Report Share Posted July 19, 2020 FirstTR3 is TS 8637 from September 1955. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DavidBee Posted July 20, 2020 Report Share Posted July 20, 2020 18 hours ago, roy53 said: 1955 will not be a 3. Roy And mine built on 17 November 1955, but registered in August 1956. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mick Forey Posted July 20, 2020 Report Share Posted July 20, 2020 (edited) I fitted 165 tyres on my TR3 and regretted it a short while later as I think they look better on 155 size and the spare will go in the spare wheel hole without deflating it a bit or using brute force and ignorance. Mick Edited July 20, 2020 by Mick Forey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roy53 Posted July 20, 2020 Report Share Posted July 20, 2020 sorry guys realised my mistake later after posting. Roy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted July 20, 2020 Report Share Posted July 20, 2020 We forgive you (this time ) Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
2long Posted July 20, 2020 Report Share Posted July 20, 2020 Were any 55 tr3s fitted with disc brakes? Dan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted July 20, 2020 Report Share Posted July 20, 2020 No. Drums, & a rear axle with rather weak half shafts (ask me how I know !) Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 21, 2020 Report Share Posted July 21, 2020 Change to discs and Girling hydraulics and axle at TS13046 Mid 56. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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