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Engine cut out


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15 hours ago, RobH said:

 

I interpreted  the question not as "how is the A/R mech fixed", but rather "how is the moving plate prevented from rotation if the spring that normally holds it is no longer there".  It must be held somehow, else the timing would be all over the place. 

Yes, this is in my mind

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Just for the record (and Matt you can check):
The base plate is fixed against rotation by the rod with the knurled nut on the side of the dizzy-housing which can be used for fine-tuning the timing setting.
Waldi

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Hello everyone. Just an update. I was able to change the rotor from the black one to the red one. I also was able to remove the old bad earth wire and replace it. It was a bit of a challenge because one of the screws would not come out but I was able to soder it okay. 
 

the good news is that the issue seems to be corrected. I’ve only driven it about 5 miles but so far so good !  I just want to thank everyone for all the input and advice!

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6 hours ago, MPo said:

Hello everyone. Just an update. I was able to change the rotor from the black one to the red one. I also was able to remove the old bad earth wire and replace it. It was a bit of a challenge because one of the screws would not come out but I was able to soder it okay. 
 

the good news is that the issue seems to be corrected. I’ve only driven it about 5 miles but so far so good !  I just want to thank everyone for all the input and advice!

Good result - not too expensive, hopefully?

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On 7/19/2020 at 12:10 AM, gloide69 said:

The red wire also looks to be frayed or melted near to the module

I have the Pertonix Ignitor set up, both of my wires (black and red) also look like they are frayed, but they aren't compromised at all, must come like that from the factory.

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