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14 minutes ago, stillp said:

Do you think Triumph could have saved the cost of that by advising owners to put less water in the radiator?

Well effectively that is what the filler neck on the sidescreen cars does Pete, and why it throws water out if you overfill it. Perhaps the modern bottle system was cheaper than a special radiator !

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Just now, RobH said:

Well effectively that is what the filler neck on the sidescreen cars does Pete, and why it throws water out if you overfill it. Perhaps the modern bottle system was cheaper than a special radiator !

Possibly more reliable Rob, I believe they tend to crack where the filler neck meets the header tank.

Pete

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I’m not at home at the moment but maybe later this arvo I’ll get the chance to try Andrew’s approach to bleeding any air out the system and can report back. 

Rgds Ian

Edited by Ian Vincent
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34 minutes ago, stillp said:

He said he'd checked the timing.

Pete

I have, both statically and with a strobe.  Its running at about 11/12 deg advanced at idle which is where it has always been.

Rgds Ian

PS  Is it too far advanced or too far retarded which can make engines run hotter?

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Hi Ian

My 4a also runs a tad hotter since I rebuilt the engine using 89mm liners it doesn't over heat or use coolant the gauge is only a guide I checked the temp using a 

infra red hand held probe and found it was running at 68c measured at the top of the radiator. You may be over worrying about a problem which doesn't exist if 

there's no boiling and over heating whilst driving .

Chris 

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4 hours ago, stillp said:

Possibly Marco, but they usually seem to fail totally, which would make the temp gauge read zero, rather than a couple of mm higher than before.

Pete

Standard would be a capillary tube on a 3a.

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OK, here is what I think about the bottle.

When I bought my 4A it came without that bottle and this worked lovely.

If I know correctly the TR2-3-4 have no such a bottle and other classic cars also never had, and this always worked.

You just have to keep enough air in the system and do not overfill the radiator.

The pump is s MONSTER and keeps the air in the flow, this is not a toy house heating pump.

Years ago I anyway added a bottle – but it is always dry.

 

But I also have also been told that sweet stories about bleeding the air out of the system – and believed that hearsay!

This is why I installed 2-3 years ago my own special bleeding system (I reported) on my TR4A,

also 3 digital thermometers (thermostat housing, water pump outlet, radiator return) to check the success.

2137752556_72degCwaxonTR3waterpumphousing.JPG.807f6b60263e473a853157f6db782219.JPG

The system allows me to bleed ALL the air out of the system in an air bottle after driving about 10 miles and then drive with 100% coolant.

AND to bring all the air back the next moment in the system and continue to drive at once with the standard coolant–air mix.

Like “air on/off”, very easy.

post-13222-0-52886900-1528532370_thumb.jpg

And this makes no difference at all on the temperatures. WHAT AN ANNOYING DISAPOINTMENT!

 

So why the bottle?

I my opinion too much customer overfilled the radiator constantly believing that stories, the engine always lost coolant and they complained about.  

To get rid of this customer complaints they fitted an OVERFLOW bottle (not an expansion bottle) and presented this as a benefit.

In my poinion that's all about the bottle, I can realize no technical benefit.

If you use this overflow bottle always filled 1/3 with coolant, blow coolant out and suck it back

you constantly support your cast iron engine and cylinder head with fresh oxygen.

Did you realize this?

 

This a an "opened expansion system", on house heating system we get rid of this already for about 40 years

because this causes rust and mud in the system!

The expansion container on modern cars is needed because of different reasons,

mainly the rad position and rad construction allows no filler neck, and it is covered with plastic to protect our fingers.

Please make your own thought about and believe only half the stories you have been told.

Ciao, Marco

Edited by Z320
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11 hours ago, Ian Vincent said:

I have, both statically and with a strobe.  Its running at about 11/12 deg advanced at idle which is where it has always been.

Rgds Ian

PS  Is it too far advanced or too far retarded which can make engines run hotter?

Retarded will run hotter

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