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Replacing clutch on my 63 Tr4 and want to choose the right one


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Hi Paul,

welcome to the forum.

I assume the message is in the title.

On my last clutch change I used a bog standard  plate from Moss (supplied by all the others)  the pressure plate was still usable  

I see Moss have stop using the RHP bearing again - that is a pity. Get the best bearing you can find.

 

Roger

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"The clutch is jammed" -  makes me think it's possible you may need more than just the clutch Paul. Can you tell us a bit more about the problem? Have you already got the gearbox off?

If the clutch won't disengage and the hydraulics are OK,  it could be a problem with the release bearing fork. 

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Hi paul,

it may be getting clearer what you problem is.

If these cars are stored for lengthy period (even over winter can do it) then the friction plate can freeze onto the flywheel. AND it can be seriously stuck.

There is not guaranteed way of unsticking it unless you remove the gearbox:o

However they are a number thinks you can try.

if you can start the engine - allow it to run for an hour or so to allow the flywheel/clutch to get warm. This may help.

Towing the car with a few sudden stops.

I'm sure there are also better ways that will be posted.

 

Roger 

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Run it until the engine is hot. Leave it for 10 minutes for the engine heat to soak through to the flywheel. Jack both back wheels clear of the ground, chock the front. Start the engine with top gear selected, rev it up and stamp on brake and clutch together.

Pete

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with it in gear and clutch pushed in then starter .  Make sure you have room in front for it to move.

As Roger said tow in gear with the clutch in.  [ disconnect the coil ] 

Roy

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I had the same problem Paul and when all the usual workarounds failed I had to remove the gearbox and drift the friction plate off the flywheel with a bolster chisel. I came off straight away with no visible damage and as it had only done 100 miles from new (but had been in long term storage) I refitted it, but did change the release bearing and taper pin.

If you decide to do the work yourself as I did, the best piece of advice I picked up off this forum when refitting the gearbox is to make up two 4" lengths of 5/16 UNC screwed rod and fit at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions on the engine block to guide the input shaft into the spigot bearing. It went in first time with just me doing the fitting.

Simple really. It runs a treat now.

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