Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hello Troops - wondered where you buy a decent cowl from?   I bought one a couple of years ago and it looks inside out,  for want of a better description the black shiny side is inside and the grey  cardboard side shows outside in the engine bay.    It cost £18.50 at the time so should have realised!  My engine has come out to cut out some rusty sections and I would like to replace this cowl with something better if I'm going to have a newly painted engine bay.

Any suggestions much appreciated.

Christine

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Christine,

here is a stainless steel cowl with no logo.  Cowl

You can get them with TR4 or TR4A on them.

The card ones can work OK but some are rather cheap.  I would think the shiny side is underneath as it is probably more water proof

 

Roger

Link to post
Share on other sites

Christine - see my post in the "For Sale, Swap or Wanted, maximum value £250" forum:

 You have 4 options - polished Stainless Steel with or without a laser cut model logo in the top, or black powder coated alloy with or without the logo.

I'm only just down the road from you so you can save the postage - if interested, PM which option is preferable if you haven't got my contact details - I've only got some left so will have to check actual availability

cheers Rich ( Colchester)

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Ocheye said:

I have one of Richard's. Perfect fit and looks so much better than saggy cardboard

Andy

Andy - thanks for the sentiments - have sorted Christine out. Made me realise how few I have left  and as a result haven't been able to help some people, so today have arranged to get some more to keep everyone happy!

Cheers Rich

Link to post
Share on other sites

Christine

I have one of the alloy, black powder coated ones, bought at the IWE, could be one of Richards (?) it was at least 10 years ago, perfect fit

Better than the SS ones IMHO as it requires no maintenance (avoid TR4/ TR4a unless you like additional work)

Replaced a very tired original item, non serviceable, very happy 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 9 months later...

I'm about replacing the old cardboard, does any of you has a drawing with measures so that I can make one?

It's not viable to order anything from UK, too expensive!

Thankyou

Link to post
Share on other sites

I dispensed with my radiator duct/cowl 40 years ago when I fitted a Kenlowe in front of the radiator, simply because it would have required butchering to accommodate the fan motor mountings. I know the received wisdom is that the duct aids cooling by concentrating the ram air flow through the radiator. My issue is that for most of the year with a functioning 91 deg C thermostat I have trouble getting the engine hot enough so a duct would only make matters worse on my car. At the moment I am running with half the rad blanked off and the temperature gauge doesn't reach half way in normal running. What I really need to engineer is a roller blind over the rad that I can operate from the driver's seat. I know these were a popular accessory in the Dark Ages.

Tim

Link to post
Share on other sites
14 minutes ago, tim hunt said:

. What I really need to engineer is a roller blind over the rad that I can operate from the driver's seat. I know these were a popular accessory in the Dark Ages.

Tim

You could try and ask Carl at TR trader if he still has the original one he had for sale a while ago on Ebay.

Stuart

Link to post
Share on other sites
50 minutes ago, tim hunt said:

I dispensed with my radiator duct/cowl 40 years ago when I fitted a Kenlowe in front of the radiator, simply because it would have required butchering to accommodate the fan motor mountings. I know the received wisdom is that the duct aids cooling by concentrating the ram air flow through the radiator. My issue is that for most of the year with a functioning 91 deg C thermostat I have trouble getting the engine hot enough so a duct would only make matters worse on my car. At the moment I am running with half the rad blanked off and the temperature gauge doesn't reach half way in normal running. What I really need to engineer is a roller blind over the rad that I can operate from the driver's seat. I know these were a popular accessory in the Dark Ages.

Tim

Where is Roger when you need him with his adapted BMW thermostatic servo operated Venetian blind?

Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, tim hunt said:

I dispensed with my radiator duct/cowl 40 years ago when I fitted a Kenlowe in front of the radiator, simply because it would have required butchering to accommodate the fan motor mountings. I know the received wisdom is that the duct aids cooling by concentrating the ram air flow through the radiator. My issue is that for most of the year with a functioning 91 deg C thermostat I have trouble getting the engine hot enough so a duct would only make matters worse on my car. At the moment I am running with half the rad blanked off and the temperature gauge doesn't reach half way in normal running. What I really need to engineer is a roller blind over the rad that I can operate from the driver's seat. I know these were a popular accessory in the Dark Ages.

Tim

Ultimately the temp should be regulated by the thermostat. If your car isn't getting up the gauge the thermostat should be pretty much closed.

So either your stat isn't really functioning at 91c or the sender/gauge/voltage regulator combo isn't working.  Thus covering the rad may prevent the water in the rad from cooling but the effect on engine temp should be negligible until the thermostat is fully open.

Link to post
Share on other sites
24 minutes ago, Andy Moltu said:

Ultimately the temp should be regulated by the thermostat. If your car isn't getting up the gauge the thermostat should be pretty much closed.

So either your stat isn't really functioning at 91c or the sender/gauge/voltage regulator combo isn't working.  Thus covering the rad may prevent the water in the rad from cooling but the effect on engine temp should be negligible until the thermostat is fully open.

Thanks Andy. Some time ago I monitored the temperature of the water in the top hose as the car warmed up at idle when stationary and noted that 'N' on the temperature gauge corresponded to 92 degs C, very close to the nominal rating of the thermostat. This was at a point where I should have been getting full flow through the thermostat and I found the agreement encouraging. I had previously tested the stat in a saucepan of water when SWMBO was out and found it to start opening at ~85degs and to be fully open at ~90. I was happy with that crude test. I think the voltage stabiliser is OK, I have no known instrument issues.

Tim 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.