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Distance of steering wheel to dashboard.


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I fitted a steering conversion using a TR7 rack, as does the Revington conversion, which I was informed puts the pivot point of the track rods nearer to the pivot point of the front wishbones to lessen (but  not eliminate) bump steer. I swapped the steering arms from left to right, also recomended for the same reasons. Not driven the car yet so cannot report on that aspect. 

Only thing I am not sure about is the distance of the wheel from the dash as I feel that it should be about an inch nearer to the dash, I have about 3.5 inches from the back of the wheel to the covered ally cockpit trim , and it is a flat wheel with no dish.

  13 hours ago, TwinCamJohn said:

"Ralph, my steering wheel is about 2" from the trim."

I wondered about this. I have been scrutinizing pictures, road tests etc trying to get an idea of how far out the wheel should be. I have a standard top half column, and a standard TR7 lower half with knuckle joints on, and this is as far forward as I can get the wheel. I am now thinking that I should have shortened the TR7 part of the set up by about 2 inches. 

Has anyone else done this conversion and found this shortening necessary?, and what is the general average distance of the back of the wheel to the cockpit trim?, is TwinCamJohn`s measurement the norm?.

I would appreciate a couple more measurements from owners if its not too much trouble chaps.

Many thanks.

Ralph

Ralph.

20200607_090905 re size.jpg

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Hi Ralph,

Mine is 3in from the capping to the back of the steering wheel.  Wheel is standard and I have a 3A upper column going into a TR7 intermediate column which then attaches to a Mk2 Escort rack.  Any adjustment would be minimal, a small amount on the couplings I guess.  All limited by the position of the rack itself I don't know how the different conversions compare.

I find it quite comfortable and I am well over 6ft.

Mike

P1010465.thumb.jpg.21cdf7f719aedb505981c92e85a441f7.jpg

 

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I have a TR7 rack, knuckle and lower column fitted to my TR3 and the steering wheel needed pulling out an inch or so from the standard position. Shortening the column is on my list of jobs but I haven’t got around to it yet. 
Revington’s conversion uses a custom lower column with both knuckles integrated into the column. I’m not sure if that may be shorter than the TR7 assembly. The racks must be mounted in the same place as the position is dictated by the required steering geometry and space available, a couple of mm difference makes a huge difference to the bump steer. 
 

8412B553-E1AA-4532-AC96-67E076BADCB8.jpeg

Edited by Drewmotty
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FWIW The lower section on the Revington kit is shorter than a standard TR 7 one.

Stuart.

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4 hours ago, Drewmotty said:

I have a TR7 rack, knuckle and lower column fitted to my TR3 and the steering wheel needed pulling out an inch or so from the standard position. Shortening the column is on my list of jobs but I haven’t got around to it yet. 
Revington’s conversion uses a custom lower column with both knuckles integrated into the column. I’m not sure if that may be shorter than the TR7 assembly. The racks must be mounted in the same place as the position is dictated by the required steering geometry and space available, a couple of mm difference makes a huge difference to the bump steer. 
 

8412B553-E1AA-4532-AC96-67E076BADCB8.jpeg

You could gain an inch just by using a flat steering wheel instead of a dished item.

Ralph

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2 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

You could gain an inch just by using a flat steering wheel instead of a dished item.

Ralph

I could but I’d rather push the column back and close up the gap between the boss and the dash. 

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3 hours ago, james christie said:

On my 3A with its Revington Rack the distance from the steering wheel to the dashbard crashpad is 11cm or 4.5 inches if you prefer it.

Suits me OK

james

Seems we have anything from 2 inches to 4.5 inches then. With the standard wheel mine would be 4.5 inches too, but the flat woodrim wheel reduced it by an inch. Think I will leave it for now, can`t face dismantling it all again to shorten the lower column just to gain another inch as everyone seems happy with the wheels in various positions. I guess its what you get used to.

thanks everyone, Ralph.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I decided that if I was going to shorten the lower column the time to do it was now before the front shroud is fitted. At the weekend I took the lower column off and cut 1.5 inches out of the middle, chamfered the ends in the lathe and mig welded them back together, then turned up a 3 inch sleeve to slide over the joint and welded that in place for extra strength.

The distance from wheel to capping is now down to 2.25 inches with my flat non dished wheel, and 3.5 with the original wheel, so probably about right for where the column would be on a standard car.

I know 1.5 inches is not a lot, but it has made it a lot easier to get in and out of the car, and I can now sit with both legs outside the car and swing the legs in, would be even easier if I had gone for a 13 inch wheel instead of the 15 inch one. I can  now have the seat the seat fully back and get my arms straight on the wheel if I want.

On that point, am I right in thinking the flat rear shelf on the post 60000 cars restricts the seat movement compared to the earlier cars, as I am not overly tall ( 5ft7in), but need the seat right up to the rear shelf.

Ralph.

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Thats why Ive never been keen on post 60K cars as the change to the rear body section does limit the seat travel sufficiently for me not to be comfortable. Im 6ft 4in

Stuart.

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The optional rear seat on the earlier cars was better in that the front edge was curved to give more clearance behind the front seats.

Bob

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2 hours ago, Lebro said:

The optional rear seat on the earlier cars was better in that the front edge was curved to give more clearance behind the front seats.

Bob

Or if you have a TR2 the rear seat was not an option due to the larger tank ;)

Stuart.

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