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Steering Rack Conversion


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My stock (1956 TR3) steering box is shot so i need to do something to make the beast go where i point it!   I am considering a rack conversion. can someone who has done it please advise whether this entails taking half the front of the car apart or whether its relatively simple. Will buy a Moss or Rimmer kit any pros / cons. Do i need any thing else apart from the kit. 

Thanks  in  advance.

Ian

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Do you have an horn push and indicator switch in the centre of your steering wheel?   Does it work and do you like it?  If your answers are yes be aware that those switches will not be there if you choose the rack conversion.  You end up with a mini indicator stalk and a rewiring task.

What is wrong with your steering box?  You will have to remove the front of the car to get it out for repair or replacement.  Is the radiator ok? Think about doing it at same time otherwise.

Steering boxes are very mendable . Probably as expensive as a rack conversion to rebuild totally.

Benefit with a properly engineered rack conversion is lighter steering.  Poorly engineered ones give you reduced turning circle and bump steer issues.  

if you add the Revington reshaped steering levers it will not skip as you go round bumpy corners, but that will not sort out an incorrectly positioned steering rack causing the bump steer.    This particular mod works with a steering box very well.

Cheers

Peter W

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The Bastuck steering slip rings will allow you to retain your normal control head with a rack conversion but the indicators won’t self return and the control head will spin with the steering wheel. 

Rgds Ian

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I fitted a conversion using a TR7 rack, as does the Revington conversion, which I was informed puts the pivot point of the track rods nearer to the pivot point of the front wishbones to lessen (but  not eliminate) bump steer. I swapped the steering arms from left to right, also recomended for the same reasons. Not driven the car yet so cannot report on that aspect. I wanted to retain at least the horn in the center of my new wood rim steering wheel as it is a beautiful billet alloy unit so made up my own slip ring and brushes unit from a block of black nylon (see pic).

Only thing I am not sure about is the distance of the wheel from the dash as I feel that it should be about an inch nearer to the dash, I have about 3.5 inches from the back of the wheel to the covered ally cockpit trim .

Ralph.

20200609_164024 re size.jpg

20200607_090905 re size.jpg

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15 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

if you add the Revington reshaped steering levers ... This particular mod works with a steering box very well.

+1

I was originally going to complete a rack & pinion conversion on my 3a - I asked around and read up.

In the end I fitted the Revington steering levers and it has vastly improved the steering and turn in. I have also found that it has also stopped the vagueness when going in a straight line. The steering box may still be a bit heavier to steer than a rack & pinion but with a standard diameter steering wheel and making sure you're moving when steering, I don't find it a problem. A good push-pull steering technique also helps..! ;)

Have you tried adjusting the steering box? ...they are adjustable to a certain extent.

Nick

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I rebuilt the steering boxes on both my TR2s and also fitted the Revington spring loaded top on both. On my daily driver I fitted the Revington phosphor bronze bush kit. I'll do this to the other one when the silentbloc bushes are knackered (I have already put the bushes in a spare centre steering rod).

If the worm is OK it is quite cheap to do it yourself. It should be easy to get a good 2nd hand one if yours is u/s.

New bearings (46 pds), rocker shaft assembly includes peg (57 pds), new bush (5 pds)and seal (2 pds). Say 120 pds for parts and materials. You might need to get a workshop to ream the bush and do a few other things. 200 pds should cover it and you have the satisfaction of having done it. It took me a few hours to set it up after getting it out.

Fill it with slumping (steering box) grease and it won't leak.

You retain the original cockpit, have the classic feel of the TR and the steering will be very acceptable. My daily driver does the shopping, goes to the tip and does 5,000km tours at high speed. The steering is excellent if a bit heavy at parking speeds.

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3 hours ago, John McCormack said:

I rebuilt the steering boxes on both my TR2s and also fitted the Revington spring loaded top on both. On my daily driver I fitted the Revington phosphor bronze bush kit. I'll do this to the other one when the silentbloc bushes are knackered (I have already put the bushes in a spare centre steering rod).

If the worm is OK it is quite cheap to do it yourself. It should be easy to get a good 2nd hand one if yours is u/s.

New bearings (46 pds), rocker shaft assembly includes peg (57 pds), new bush (5 pds)and seal (2 pds). Say 120 pds for parts and materials. You might need to get a workshop to ream the bush and do a few other things. 200 pds should cover it and you have the satisfaction of having done it. It took me a few hours to set it up after getting it out.

Fill it with slumping (steering box) grease and it won't leak.

You retain the original cockpit, have the classic feel of the TR and the steering will be very acceptable. My daily driver does the shopping, goes to the tip and does 5,000km tours at high speed. The steering is excellent if a bit heavy at parking speeds.

+1

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Thanks for all your comments. You've given me something to ponder over for the next few weeks. 

Ian

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13 hours ago, TwinCamJohn said:

Ralph, my steering wheel is about 2" from the trim.

I wondered about this. I have been scrutinizing pictures, road tests etc trying to get an idea of how far out the wheel should be. I have a standard top half column, and a standard TR7 lower half with knuckle joints on, and this is as far forward as I can get the wheel. I am now thinking that I should have shortened the TR7 part of the set up by about 2 inches.

Ralph.

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