Pearmund Posted July 3, 2020 Report Share Posted July 3, 2020 Hi, Having some issues with a 3A since the fuel pump gave out last week. I have since sourced a new pump and began work on removing it which as all forums that I had read, took too long with the awkward angle of the right nut! Something I had noticed upon first inspection, but did not realise the significance of until I had dismantled as much of the pump as possible, the rocker arm fulcrum pin has come loose and is to one side and no longer can be pushed back in (or pulled out from the angle). With the pin out to the side, this is now also being caught on the top of (what I think is) the oil gallery and so also cannot pull the pump off. It seems like a bit of a unique problem from scrolling through forums, would anyone have any suggestions in removing the lower body of the pump? I have attached some images of the issue. Thanks Pearmund Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted July 4, 2020 Report Share Posted July 4, 2020 From the pictures it is being caught on the engine breather pipe so you can remove that to allow the pump to come out. If you undo the bolt holding the breather pipe to the block it should twist out of the way enough to get the pump off as it is only pushed into the block. There`s no wonder you were having problems with the fuel pump with the pin that far out. It`s a wonder it was working at all. Ralph. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted July 4, 2020 Report Share Posted July 4, 2020 Looking at the picture you could perhaps double nut the studs and remove them allowing clearance to remove the pump. Depending on what you find on the cam lever, your problems may be more serious. You will need to inspect closely the cam lobe that the pump bears onto for damage and also look for missing parts if the lever has broken up. An endoscope woulkd work here and turn over the engine while looking. If you get away with it I suggest that you get the original if that is what it is, a professional rebuild? The way to tell is the lever on the originals was a bronze coloured one peice and the repros or later was two parts spot welded together. these have been known to separate which is not a good thing. The pivot should be held in with climps is memory serves. Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 4, 2020 Report Share Posted July 4, 2020 Hi Pearmund, welcome to the forum. I agree with Rod. Double nut the rear stud to allow it to swivel. I had the same p[problem many moons ago. To stop this happening again I made some washers that had flanges on that blanked off the pin so it could not migrate out Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted July 4, 2020 Report Share Posted July 4, 2020 As a PS on this topic, there was a post on the forum many moons ago by a forumite who had managed to re-install his fuel pump with the lever on the wrong side of the camshaft. It worked for a while until it broke the foot off the lever arm. Ever since then I have been very careful to ensure that the operating cam on the camshaft is pointing down when I am re-installing the pump. I also have a cut down spanner specifically for the task of removing the pump. It came as part of a bunch of spare parts with the car when I bought it so I can only assume the previous owner had problems with the fuel pump at some point. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted July 4, 2020 Report Share Posted July 4, 2020 5 hours ago, Rodbr said: If you get away with it I suggest that you get the original if that is what it is, a professional rebuild? The way to tell is the lever on the originals was a bronze coloured one peice and the repros or later was two parts spot welded together. these have been known to separate which is not a good thing. Rod FWIW, I don't profess to be an expert on these pumps but Dave Davies told me the cast steel, copper coated one piece arm was was used on the early cars up to and including the TR4 , and the three piece laminated steel arm which has a single rivet at the cam end ( I didn't think it was spot welded - certainly the ones I've got don't appear to be and all the ones I've got are not 2 piece but 3 peice) was a later variation used on the TR4A, and I'm not aware of these failing or separating. As such, Dave told me they are just as good as the earlier ones but people don't believe this! What is maybe confusing is that most, if not all, of the repros copy the laminated approach, and these have been known to separate and fail Hope this helps clarify things. Cheers Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.