Jo Neyskens Posted July 2, 2020 Report Share Posted July 2, 2020 Does anyone know the best way to get a gearbox out of the car? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted July 2, 2020 Report Share Posted July 2, 2020 (edited) Plenty of previous threads on this Jo if you do a forum search eg: Edited July 2, 2020 by RobH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jo Neyskens Posted July 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2020 32 minutes ago, RobH said: Plenty of previous threads on this Jo if you do a forum search eg: Thanks Robh!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted July 2, 2020 Report Share Posted July 2, 2020 Hi Jo. If you PM me your email adress, I'll send you info on teh gearbox crane I use, the info. also has some tips for removal replacemenr of teh box. Two fundamentals, especially if you have an overdrive, get a second pairof hands, and the box has to come out through the car, John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jo Neyskens Posted July 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2020 jo.neyskens@xxxxxxxxxx Thanks John!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jo Neyskens Posted July 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2020 18 minutes ago, John Morrison said: Hi Jo. If you PM me your email adress, I'll send you info on teh gearbox crane I use, the info. also has some tips for removal replacemenr of teh box. Two fundamentals, especially if you have an overdrive, get a second pairof hands, and the box has to come out through the car, John. Thanks John!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 2, 2020 Report Share Posted July 2, 2020 3 hours ago, Jo Neyskens said: Does anyone know the best way to get a gearbox out of the car? Hi Jo, You could also consider taking the GB out with the engine. Sounds like a lot of work but it is easy work. Disconnect the exhaust as near the manifold as possible (down by the chassis). Unbolt and push forward the steering rack. Remove the suspension turret cross shaft. Disconnect the fuel line form the tank. Remove the Rad Remove all the bits that the GB would need Then lift out.. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
signalredshaker Posted July 2, 2020 Report Share Posted July 2, 2020 Its a bit of a task, made worse by the weight of the G-box combined with the overdrive. Separating these two is nigh on impossible in the car, so they both come out as a pair. Usual H&S precautions apply. Lift the car onto axle stands around 400-450mm high (unless you have a car lift or suchlike). Double-check stability and then check again every time you get beneath the car. Disconnect clutch, and remove slave cylinder bracket and tie up the thing (no need to drain but watch out for piston which could drop out! Remove the clutch operating rod and yolk. Take off metal plate from lower of G-box/engine. I see no real need to drain the G-box but it can be done now as its probably easier at this stage. It depends. Support the engine with adjustable jack using a firm rubber block of sufficient rigidity to allow no distortion of the sump and large enough to spread the load of the engine. Be careful here with your sump- it is possible to distort it unless you have the right sort of block with sufficient spread. Strip out the interior, including fascia support bracket, and especially the carpets to the passenger side including underfelt. Also disconnect the three controls in the support bracket and tie up out of the way. Retain the gearlever in place- its a handy lifting point to grab onto. Remove the rear G-box support- fiddly this - I find the best way is to let it drop through the chassis and retrieve later- by lifting the engine a little, levering and generally keeping fingers out of the way. Usual H&S precautions again apply. Disconnect propshaft and push towards back of car on its splines. Lower the engine a little - so you can, from inside the car, get to those higher flange bolts and remove all bolts from gearbox flange that remain. This should be lowered sufficiently so that you can see, from inside the car, the flange of the G-box and confirm it is clear of the bullkhead metalwork. You should now, if the above has not missed any significant steps (which may be added below by others on the forum), be able to pull the G-box towards the rear of the car, sorting out a few clearances my shifting the G-box around axially as you go- the significant one being the clutch cross-shaft lever. You may have to rotate the G-box at least 90Deg to clear the floor edge pressing. This is another significantly fiddly bit. Now comes the heavy work. A reasonably fit person can now pull the G-box backwards, rolling as necessary to clear the cross shaft lever and heave (and I really mean heave) it onto the passenger side floor. This is when you really do need another person- to remove it from the car- if not you will either have to lift the whole thing OK if you are young enough, maybe below 55- which will mean it does not mark or otherwise crush, mark or squash the passengers side sill. It all depends on how long you've spent in the gym. Usual H&S precautions apply as far as your personal physique goes! All being well your G-box should now be free for you to do whatever. As far as I can recall, the re-fitting is more or less the reverse of the above (as it used to say in the manuals)! Happy to accept amendments to my technique as its from my memory and not a book. James Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted July 2, 2020 Report Share Posted July 2, 2020 (edited) 30 minutes ago, signalredshaker said: A reasonably fit person can now pull the G-box backwards, rolling as necessary to clear the cross shaft lever and heave (and I really mean heave) it onto the passenger side floor. This is when you really do need another person- to remove it from the car- if not you will either have to lift the whole thing OK if you are young enough, maybe below 55- That bit is made much easier if the weight of the gearbox is supported either by John's crane device or, as I did it, with a trolley jack and suitable support fixture from below plus extra-long headless studs in the flange as guides (below on '3A). Once free I managed to lift the box in and out single handed without too much trouble and I am the wrong side of 70 and hardly super-fit. Edited July 2, 2020 by RobH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jo Neyskens Posted July 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2020 On 7/2/2020 at 5:41 PM, signalredshaker said: Its a bit of a task, made worse by the weight of the G-box combined with the overdrive. Separating these two is nigh on impossible in the car, so they both come out as a pair. Usual H&S precautions apply. Lift the car onto axle stands around 400-450mm high (unless you have a car lift or suchlike). Double-check stability and then check again every time you get beneath the car. Disconnect clutch, and remove slave cylinder bracket and tie up the thing (no need to drain but watch out for piston which could drop out! Remove the clutch operating rod and yolk. Take off metal plate from lower of G-box/engine. I see no real need to drain the G-box but it can be done now as its probably easier at this stage. It depends. Support the engine with adjustable jack using a firm rubber block of sufficient rigidity to allow no distortion of the sump and large enough to spread the load of the engine. Be careful here with your sump- it is possible to distort it unless you have the right sort of block with sufficient spread. Strip out the interior, including fascia support bracket, and especially the carpets to the passenger side including underfelt. Also disconnect the three controls in the support bracket and tie up out of the way. Retain the gearlever in place- its a handy lifting point to grab onto. Remove the rear G-box support- fiddly this - I find the best way is to let it drop through the chassis and retrieve later- by lifting the engine a little, levering and generally keeping fingers out of the way. Usual H&S precautions again apply. Disconnect propshaft and push towards back of car on its splines. Lower the engine a little - so you can, from inside the car, get to those higher flange bolts and remove all bolts from gearbox flange that remain. This should be lowered sufficiently so that you can see, from inside the car, the flange of the G-box and confirm it is clear of the bullkhead metalwork. You should now, if the above has not missed any significant steps (which may be added below by others on the forum), be able to pull the G-box towards the rear of the car, sorting out a few clearances my shifting the G-box around axially as you go- the significant one being the clutch cross-shaft lever. You may have to rotate the G-box at least 90Deg to clear the floor edge pressing. This is another significantly fiddly bit. Now comes the heavy work. A reasonably fit person can now pull the G-box backwards, rolling as necessary to clear the cross shaft lever and heave (and I really mean heave) it onto the passenger side floor. This is when you really do need another person- to remove it from the car- if not you will either have to lift the whole thing OK if you are young enough, maybe below 55- which will mean it does not mark or otherwise crush, mark or squash the passengers side sill. It all depends on how long you've spent in the gym. Usual H&S precautions apply as far as your personal physique goes! All being well your G-box should now be free for you to do whatever. As far as I can recall, the re-fitting is more or less the reverse of the above (as it used to say in the manuals)! Happy to accept amendments to my technique as its from my memory and not a book. James Thanks for the info James!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted July 4, 2020 Report Share Posted July 4, 2020 On 7/2/2020 at 4:41 PM, signalredshaker said: Separating these two is nigh on impossible in the car, so they both come out as a pair. I'm glad I didn't know that before I took my overdrive out! I don't remember any particular problems. Getting it back in was a different matter though! Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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