Yarm 783 Posted July 1, 2020 Report Share Posted July 1, 2020 (edited) New springs, dampers, suspension overhaul, what next...I have run out of jobs to do...wait, what abut upgrading the lights to LEDs. I ordered the full kit from Classic Car LEDs (https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/) and it came, very well packed, easy to follow and clearly very good quality, it is a little pricey though (get what you pay for springs to mind). Rear lamps, easy, all round indicators/ repeaters, easy (including the new wiring for the flasher). Dash lights, very very fiddly, but pretty much done now. I had to drop out the small instruments and the large ones had to be slackened off and spun around a little to get at the various fittings. Finally the headlamps, great quality and an easy fit. At first I got all of the gubbins in the headlamp bowl, a bit fiddly but is just about fits, but I was worried about heat as that is where the heat sink is. I stripped it all back and used the extension lead that comes with the bulbs, to fit the gubbins in the engine bay (see photo), I’ll tidy up the wiring but it’s not that intrusive. It took a little time but it’s all done now. The result, well I went with warm white on the clear stuff, red/ amber on the stop/ indicator lamps and green on the dash. I’ve read all sorts of comments, “not any brighter’, “not really worth it”, but I am having none of it. I can actually see the dials at night, the stop lamps and exterior lighting is greatly improved and with the warm white have retained the classic ‘look’, one added bonus, I am using about a 10th of the power. Edited July 1, 2020 by Sill Gap Problem Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Matt1969 Posted July 4, 2020 Report Share Posted July 4, 2020 Great post. Thinking of doing the same. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Yarm 783 Posted July 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2020 It was a great project, good outcomes and pretty straightforward. We are still hoping that our French road trip goes ahead and it was for that trip that I did the project, we will have some night driving to cope with and I am hopeful that this project will really help in that respect. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Scotland Director Posted July 6, 2020 Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 Dear Sill Gap Problem, We must be living parallel lives, I have also just completed the same job, I went for clear white on the basis that I wanted to be seen as clearly as possible, but I swayed backwards and forwards for days ! I love the impact, and the instant on for brake lights and indicators might just add enough time for the car behind to react and avoid a metal crunching incident ! My favourite part was the instrument light replacement, I went for blue and I’m super happy with the results. I did manage to fit them without removing the instruments. Took out the ashtray for the top ones and having long thin fingers definitely helped ! Also, totally agree that the quality of Classic Car LEDs have real quality products, even the box that the headlight LEDs came in was quality. We also fitted a [motor] bike horn - see both below for increased safety. stay safe my friend, Stephen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Yarm 783 Posted July 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 They do look fantastic in Blue as well, I’ll try to get a shot mine in green tomorrow, looks great either way And so much clearer. Didn’t think about access through the ashtray either, but I have short stubby hands so possibly not a great help for me. Did you change the headlights, what did you do with the controller, inside or outside of the bowl? I also have the Mota-lita wheel, slightly different design though, I heard lot’s of different reports about them, but I love the way it feels. I have a friend in Wisconsin who has a Denali truck, is that the same brand as your air horn? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Scotland Director Posted July 7, 2020 Report Share Posted July 7, 2020 Yes the headlights were changed, I went for bright white rather than the yellow classic car look, I did that because I wanted max safety and I thought that they might be more noticeable. I’ve kept them outside of the bowl to keep them cool, still looking for a place to locate them, where did you mount yours ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawk Posted July 7, 2020 Report Share Posted July 7, 2020 I really must get round to doing this ... just need to take the plunge and hope I can get my sausage fingers to manipulate the instrument bulbs Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Scotland Director Posted July 7, 2020 Report Share Posted July 7, 2020 Do you have access to a teenager, if you know what I mean ? Results look cool I think, and safer too. Just need to decide, white, green, red or blue ! Too much choice, it’s like ordering eggs for breakfast in the US ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Yarm 783 Posted July 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2020 (edited) I have attached a few shots Post installation, I mounted the control units in the engine bay, see picture at top of this post, and used the extension lead. I had to cut into the harness, but it was pretty straightforward. For the dash lights, I have chubby fingers and it’s doable, you have to be able to get into some awkward positions in the footwell too, but take your time, swear a bit and it can be done. In terms of colors, Duncan at Classic Car LEDs is very helpful. He advises green four the dash, warm white everywhere else, except reversing lights, where he suggest bright white. I think it’s totally personal though. I think it makes a significant difference. One quick point, I cut out the rheostat as I found it was very imprecise, I did leave it in position though. Edited July 7, 2020 by Sill Gap Problem Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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