Jump to content

Limora Starter


Recommended Posts

Hi,

Hs anybody used the Limora starter motor, is it any good.

Thanks

Dave

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Dave

I fitted one about 6 month ago, a bit of a fiddle to fit due to access and I didn’t think the wiring instructions were overly clear, but once I figured it out it works a treat.

Link to post
Share on other sites
12 minutes ago, Sill Gap Problem said:

Hi Dave

I fitted one about 6 month ago, a bit of a fiddle to fit due to access and I didn’t think the wiring instructions were overly clear, but once I figured it out it works a treat.

Thanks, did you manage to fit it without bashing a hole through the footwell to get at the top nut.

Link to post
Share on other sites
4 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

I did see that the power was less. 

The issue I have have with the WOSP is, as I understand, it comes with the top fixing stud in place it cant be installed without punching a hole in the footwell.

It seems the Limora one doesn't have this stud so shouldn't need access to the top stud via the footwell.

 

Dave

Link to post
Share on other sites
17 minutes ago, cookie said:

I did see that the power was less. 

The issue I have have with the WOSP is, as I understand, it comes with the top fixing stud in place it cant be installed without punching a hole in the footwell.

It seems the Limora one doesn't have this stud so shouldn't need access to the top stud via the footwell.

 

Dave

Having had a problem with the Wasp electrical plug where I had to remove the wasp s/motor. I much prefer the fixed top stud. The mistake most people make is that you need a deep socket to remove the top nut as a standard socket is not deep enough to engage the nut when tight. I have a strategical hole covered by a blanking plate, in my gear box cover so that I can directly access this top nut. I can imagine that a loose bolt is a right game to secure with out taking the gear box cover off? But Wasp now do not have the fixed stud unless you ask for it?

Bruce.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I fitted a PowerLite RAC102 to my 4A and although rated at 1.0kw it has more than enough power to do the job. The lower fastening is easily accessible from under the car but the drive end cover is positioned to give optimum clearance for the motor when fitted. One result of this is that the motor is supplied with a 3/8” UNF stud fixed through the upper hole in the end cover. When fitting the new motor it is just possible to place a spring washer over the stud behind the bell housing and then to start threading a nut. I found it impossible, however, to tighten the nut from the engine compartment since there was no room to use any spanner in my tool kit. As Bruce did I carefully cut out a 4” x 4.5” section of the original gearbox cover. This allows access for a slim 9/16” AF socket to be fitted on the nut and will make any subsequent removal of the starter motor, if ever necessary, a doddle. A thin piece of aluminium or steel sheet, suitably shaped to fit the cover curvature, should be cut a little larger than the hole and then secured by self tapping screws in spire fixings as shown.

Tim

Access panel in gearbox cover.JPG

Link to post
Share on other sites

Personally I would fit a WOSP every time not a fan of Limora stuff.

Stuart.

Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, astontr6 said:

Having had a problem with the Wasp electrical plug where I had to remove the wasp s/motor. I much prefer the fixed top stud. The mistake most people make is that you need a deep socket to remove the top nut as a standard socket is not deep enough to engage the nut when tight. I have a strategical hole covered by a blanking plate, in my gear box cover so that I can directly access this top nut. I can imagine that a loose bolt is a right game to secure with out taking the gear box cover off? But Wasp now do not have the fixed stud unless you ask for it?

Bruce.

 If you shorten the stud you can use a normal socket 

Link to post
Share on other sites
22 hours ago, cookie said:

Hi,

Hs anybody used the Limora starter motor, is it any good.

Thanks

Dave

No knowledge about Limora - but fitted a PowerLite Starter from Rimmers to my Six several years ago because the Bomb type was struggling to turn the engine over.  The original failed within a matter of days but Rimmers replaced with no quibble.  I like these over the Bomb type because they are smaller and lighter, and if it does have to be removed again I can do it without removing the extractor manifold. Note; I needed a shim with mine and thats an option with the Rimmers parts listing.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi,

do they all have a solid bolt on the flange or is there a model to use with the standard bolts, please?

Or is there one with a turnable flang, I've seen photos of models like this.

Mille grazie in advance, Marco

Link to post
Share on other sites
18 hours ago, jah said:

 If you shorten the stud you can use a normal socket 

The trouble was that I fitted my Wasp S/M when the engine was out and did not think about shortening that stud?

Bruce.

Link to post
Share on other sites

WOSP on order, fingers crossed it won't be too difficult.

Dave

Link to post
Share on other sites

WOSP fitted and working, new tool developed to get the nut on.

On to the next problem now, won't start !!

 

IMG_8749.jpg

Edited by cookie
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.