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Anti-theft ignition kill switch


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I'm sure that this topic has already been covered but my search is exhausted, electrics have never been a strong point but I try...! I am considering fitting some sort of anti-theft kill switch under the dash and want to ensure that I select the correct wire to interrupt from the ignition switch. I think that position 1 is the correct wire it's the one that puts the red ignition light on and ends up at the A1 position on the voltage regulator box. Any advise would be gratefully received.

 

Trevor 

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Interrupting the brown/blue wire from A1 to the ignition switch will kill everything except the horns Trevor. What sort of switch had you in mind?  It would need a decent current rating - it powers everything including the headlights(10A)/ignition(4A)/heater fan/brake and indicator lights etc so perhaps 20A to give a bit of margin. It's probably best not to have something you can knock accidentally.

An alternative is a battery master switch which you can fit in the earth lead from the battery - others have done that with the switch mounted through the bulkhead so it can be operated from the cabin. (Don't know how easy that would be on a '4 though).

 

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A switch on the coil feed LT would prevent starting. But allow the engine to be turned over.

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That sounds a plan.  As long as your passenger rooting for something in the glovebox can't turn it off while you are driving.....!

Bear in mind, though, that if the fuse blows the car stops and the lights go out. Perhaps not fun at night?

Edited by RobH
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If somebody is intent on stealing then it is a simple task to hot wire the coil with a piece of wire from the battery and push start.

If you have an electric fuel pump at the back under the tank a kill switch in the supply circuit would be much more effective.

Alternatively  install a battery isolation switch with a removable key under the dash (better than 1 but not as good as 2)  It is a very good Lucas smoke extinguisher which can be operated instantly from the driving position. If you get into the habit of using all the time no battery drain due to leaving side lights on.

Been there with the smoke and drained battery hence fitted the switch.

 

 

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To be honest a cut out on the igntion is innefective in preventing theft. Hot wiring is pretty basic stuff in the scumbag school of car theft.  A cut out on the fuel pump circuit is better This requires an electric fuel pump but buried in the boot or under the body take some finding and effort to hot wire. Some of the cheapo trackers have this facility so you can remotely set it.

Professional classic car thrieves tend to come armed with a trailer or pick up so whatever you do won't deter those.

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Trevor don't worry, the fly-off handbrake will defeat any theft attempt. :rolleyes:

Seriously though, unless you have an electric fuel pump you can disable, I'd go for a battery cut-off which has advantages anyway as said above. If you don't want to do a lot of wiring you could just get a basic switch that goes on the battery terminal - limited deterrence but better than nothing because it does require chummy to get the bonnet up and poke around.

The simple, old school solution if you have to leave the car overnight somewhere unsavoury used to be to pocket the rotor arm. That still works for me as I've not put in electronic ignition.

Nigel

 

 

 

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Nigel - my Newtronic/Piranha electronic ignition, fitted in 1993, uses a rotor arm.

Don't most (all?) electronic ignition systems, unless they completely replace the distributor, require a rotor arm?

Ian Cornish

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I have been toying with the idea of bonnet and boot locks, operating from a small external 12V Li-Ion battery that is plugged in when needed. To steal the car, It won't stop those thieves with a trailer, but will prevent access under the bonnet or boot without the external battery, so any would be thief would need to damage the car reducing its resale value dramatically. However, a simple steering wheel lock could be just as effective, so I am still in the toying stage.

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Just now, ianc said:

Nigel - my Newtronic/Piranha electronic ignition, fitted in 1993, uses a rotor arm.

Don't most (all?) electronic ignition systems, unless they completely replace the distributor, require a rotor arm?

Ian Cornish

Yes actually that's probably right Ian!

 

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1 hour ago, tthomson said:

I have been toying with the idea of bonnet and boot locks, operating from a small external 12V Li-Ion battery that is plugged in when needed. To steal the car, It won't stop those thieves with a trailer, but will prevent access under the bonnet or boot without the external battery, so any would be thief would need to damage the car reducing its resale value dramatically. However, a simple steering wheel lock could be just as effective, so I am still in the toying stage.

This is the "simple steering wheel lock" that thieves hate

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Disklok-Steering-Silver-Security-Approved/dp/B017LY1ZGA/ref=asc_df_B017LY1ZGA/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=324886249090&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1341058154503003113&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007138&hvtargid=pla-696556453654&psc=1

It's a consistent winner in Autocar and other organisations (Thatcham) where the devices are tested against one another. Because it fully covers the steering wheel and yet is loose upon it and can swivel 360 deg thieves can't use it as a lever against the factory steering wheel lock (if fitted). It requires excessive force to remove it physically normally involving a battery driven angle grinder for 5 minutes and a side order of levering with a crowbar and swearing "come off you ba***8d" at it to remove. Thieves don't like the exposure that brings and move on to a simpler steal. It's also finding favour amongst owners newer cars (BMW, AUDI, FORD ST etc) with fancy steering wheels, paddle flap gear change, cruise control, radio and phone access equipped. Because it's covering the steering wheel completely the wheel can't be stolen whilst the car is at roadside (check out e bay for steering wheels available that weren't so equipped) and a thieves income source is cut off at the knees.

It does weigh a few kilos (at 70 I can still manipulate it around inside the car easily) and is cumbersome and clunky to have in the car, ...but at least your chances of retaining a car is improved markedly. Thief with a trailer will obviously byepass it but parking nose into immobile objects with front wheels on full lock pointing into them, normally means the thief now needs a truck with a crane to lift it onto the bed, and many of them will just say "you are aving a larff aren't you arry" ? and move on.

Mick Richards 

Edited by Motorsport Mickey
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