hafodty Posted June 27, 2020 Report Share Posted June 27, 2020 Hi all Looking from some guidance on the best way to finish off the Cantrails at the front edge. I haven't found the subject so far on the forum ....but I'm probably wrong ? I have the hardtop on the car, ready to test fit the new items. The old contrails were finished in two different ways as below on the attached pics. I won't be cutting them short hopefully as on the old nearside cantrail. I will be fitting the new Cantrails, kindly organised via Ian Smith for a number of us recently, and would rather avoid messing it up! It's the other halfs car (Liz) and from experience any mistake will be remembered forever! My question to forum members as how to best finish this leading edge at the front end to minimise water entry into the hardtop/car and also to give a neat finish. Any other tricks gained by members to assist the process also gratefully received. thanks for any support and experience gained from members Mike IMG_1238.HEIC IMG_1243.HEIC IMG_1242.HEIC IMG_1239.HEIC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 27, 2020 Report Share Posted June 27, 2020 (edited) Not particularly detailed pictures but this is an original hardtop. Cantrails were fitted using non setting windscreen sealant between them and the roof. Stuart. Edited June 27, 2020 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted June 27, 2020 Report Share Posted June 27, 2020 I put rivnuts in the hardtop used stainless Allen fasteners and a sealant between rail and hardtop Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikej Posted June 28, 2020 Report Share Posted June 28, 2020 Mine is a MK1, it has chrome plated brass cantrails, not in A1 condition but impossible to replace unless swapping to aluminium. All said I think the outside view is the same and they extend up to and follow the profile of the steel ledge at the front. As my brass ones cannot be cut to fit (else they loose the chrome edge) I'm 99% certain they are as were when new. I also use sealant (lots of it) between the cantrail and the hardtop. The45deg u-turned edge of the cantrail forms the gutter and it's very important that NO water can seep into the spot welded joint, poor (no) sealant was central to the major rust issues on mine. Any idea where to get the fixing screws? they need low profile heads to prevent damage to the side-screens and would be best in stainless? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hafodty Posted June 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2020 Hi and thanks for the input Stuart Hamish and Mike. I have cut the drivers side Cantrail and have it to first fit stage. The length is currently around 4mm longer than the hardtop and I was going to trim this to about 2mm. Is this correct in your opinions or should it be flush to the end of the hardtop? With regard to the sealant do you mean to fill the entires cavity with sealant? Mike with regard to fasteners I was going to for theses flanged headed stainless self tappers see below for the details. https://www.accu.co.uk/en/pozi-self-tapping-flanged-button-screws/403337-SPBFT-No-6-3-4-A2 I have not used Riv nuts before but will be the way I will probably go if the self tappers are no good. If the hard top didn't already have an ok liner in it the riv nut option looks more secure No.6 (3.5mm) X 3/4 Inch (19mm) Pozi Self Tapping Flanged Button Screws (BS 4174) - A2 Stainless Steel Description The No.6 (3.5mm) x 3/4 inch (19mm) Pozi Self Tapping Flanged Button Screws (BS 4174) - A2 Stainless Steel has the following features: BS 4174 Manufacturing Standard Enquire Actual Length (L) 8.15mm Flange diameter (F) A2 Stainless Steel Material No.6 (3.5mm) Thread Size A2 Stainless Steel Material Specification Enquire Head Diameter (D) 1.88m Head Length (K) Metric Metric or Imperial PZ2 Pozi Drive Size 3/4 inch (19mm) Nominal Length Self Colour Finish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted June 28, 2020 Report Share Posted June 28, 2020 Keep up the good work Mike and keep posting pictures. This summer I hope to get back to work on my hardtop and I have a set of Ian's cantrails to fit. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted June 28, 2020 Report Share Posted June 28, 2020 My brass cantrail gutter doesn’t curve back over the roof lip like your pic but yes I would seal all of that area and the front. You don’t want any water in amongst all those sandwiches of metal. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 29, 2020 Report Share Posted June 29, 2020 (edited) Those screws should be fine as theyre fairly low profile.The outer curve of the rail doesnt really curve right over the outer lip of the shell and should act as a gutter, the rail inner edge with a seal should fit against the inside of the sidescreen so that determines how far out the gutter edge ends up I would trim the front edge flush with the front of the top. Seal between the rail and the frame but dont put to much in between as it will alter the clearance to the sidescreens. Stuart. Edited June 29, 2020 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JeffR Posted June 30, 2020 Report Share Posted June 30, 2020 On 6/27/2020 at 3:02 PM, stuart said: Not particularly detailed pictures but this is an original hardtop. Cantrails were fitted using non setting windscreen sealant between them and the roof. Stuart. Hi Stuart, I'm just reaching the stage of fitting the cantrails (supplied by IanSmith) to my hardtop restoration and note that in your post above you say that you use windscreen sealant between the cantrails and the hardtop frame. You don't mention the rubber gasket in between. Do you fit these and should windscreen sealant be used on both sides of the seal? Also, looking at the 2nd photo above you show the front hardtop seal fixed to the hardtop with self tappers and cup washers. I'm aware this is the usual fix but on inspection of my hardtop there's no evidence of any self tapping screws ever having been used. The WSM simply states to use sealant and doesn't mention self tappers - albeit the parts manual lists them. Personally, I'd prefer not to drill holes in the the front edge of my hardtop if sealant is considered sufficient. What is your view on this? Thanks for your assistance. JeffR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 30, 2020 Report Share Posted June 30, 2020 If you can get the seals then use them, The one pictured above still had its original early type seals basically intact but I still just used a very thin smear of sealant as the rubber had hardened off a bit, When I removed them to restore it first of all there was evidence of a bit of sealant originally.. That one had also had screws in it from new at the front so I just replaced them. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JeffR Posted July 1, 2020 Report Share Posted July 1, 2020 Hi Stuart, Thanks for your advice on this. I'll use a thin smear of windscreen sealant on both sides of my new rubber cantrail gaskets just in case. Regarding adhesive for the hardtop front rubber seal, is AF178 suitable for this (without the use of self tappers)? It's what I used for the headlining. As a precaution what do you recommend as a remover for this adhesive should I inadvertently get some on the paintwork? As an alternative how does 3M Super Weatherseal Adhesive 08008 compare, which is black and may be more flexible? Apologies for my long list of questions - I'd like to get this job right first time round - and hopefully your answers will also be helpfull to those who follow me! All the best, JEFFR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 1, 2020 Report Share Posted July 1, 2020 That glue will hold it OK certainly and if you have 2K paintwork then spirit wipe will remove any glue you get on it but if your worried just mask off the surrounding paintwork.Im always wary with black glues and only ever used to use them when fitting chrome finishers to Jaguar screen seals as that particular one is a direct replacement for the original Bostik that the factory used. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JeffR Posted July 1, 2020 Report Share Posted July 1, 2020 Thanks Stuart, It's freshly painted in clearcoat, so I guess the same applies. Cheers, JEFF Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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