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Dash top crashpad - replace, repair or leave well alone?


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Well, started on my exhaust replacement a couple of years ago, then work got in the way, came back to it a couple of weeks ago and it has  now turned into something of a rolling restoration of TRP 15. The more I looked, the more I found to do so the interior has recently been stripped accordingly.  It seemed an obvious time to tackle everything behind the dash so have taken the plunge and removed everything, including screen frame to facilitate the refurb/rebuild in this area. The objective is simply to get to an end result that wont be concourse but will be reliable, tidy and reduce the need for awkward, inaccessible maintenance down the line.

Part of this phase is to tackle the dash top crash pad. It is distorted above the speedo/rev counter area as if it has been damaged in the past by heat (see pic).  Apart from this deformation it is generally in good condition. Looking back over previous threads (back to 2007!) it looks as if there has been a problem sourcing good quality after market replacements. Is this still the case? Does anyone have any particular experiences (good or bad) and recommendations that would guide me to a particular, please?

In terms of removing the current crash pad is stuck like the proverbial! I have peeled away the leading edge by two inches across the width with no sign of it moving. If general advice is to stick (no pun intended) with the original, maybe I'm best leaving well alone. Whilst i want to improve the car, I would rather have a deformed original, than a poor fitting after market crash pad that will annoy me every time I look at it!

Any thoughts welcome please - especially from those who have travelled this route previously. 

Thanks

Dave

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Edited by TRbeginner
Correction of typos and make it understandable!
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Morning Dave, looking at you dash top if it was me I would replace it, I have just replaced mine and I am very happy with it I had it from TR London a little more expensive than others, I must have been lucky as the old one was not stuck down. Mine is a TR4a.

Mike Redrose Group 

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Hi Dave,

I agree with the two above suggestions. The TRShop pad is very good and well worth the money.

 

If you have time and like a challenge you can re-cover the original. Firstly attack that damage so that it is laying flat  - any imperfection would show through any covering.

The various PVC sheets available will not be as tough/rigid as original - has a slightly softer surface - biut is easily do'able.

A good number of members have gone for leather. 

TRy not to damage your original pad - you may need it in the future or consider putting it up for sale - it will sell.

 

Roger

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Mike, Stuart and Roger

Thank you all for clear guidance and recommendations, much appreciated. 

Given that the current pad is so firmly stuck, I was erring on the side of leaving well alone. However along with the endorsement of the London TR Shop product, your encouragement to replace has swayed me! I whole heartedly agree with you Stuart that staring at a substandard pad when out and about would eventually become an irritation too far - and not an easy job to come back to!  I'll check the TR Shop out.

Thanks also for the resale angle Roger, it will help offset the cost. So far, I have used a paint scraper under the leading edge to gradually unstick the offending item. There is now about a 2in depth which is 'free'. I guess I keep on going with the same technique, working at it until completely free?

The door/screen frame seals are in tatty condition - are the TR Shop good in this area too?

Thanks all,

Dave

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1 hour ago, TRbeginner said:

The door/screen frame seals are in tatty condition - are the TR Shop good in this area too?

Thanks all,

Dave

I tend to buy pretty much all of my parts from TR Shop though for screen seals go to Moss as theirs is the best fit, for door seals I use these from Woolies Door seal

Stuart.

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14 minutes ago, stuart said:

I tend to buy pretty much all of my parts from TR Shop though for screen seals go to Moss as theirs is the best fit, for door seals I use these from Woolies Door seal

Stuart.

Stuart, very helpful again - thanks. I'm learning that a lot of these aftermarket parts arernt quite up to scratch so its really helpful to have recommendations. Thank you. Dave

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Dave,

make sure the glue you use can withstand the high temperatures it will be exposed to when in the sun. I used a good quality clear silicone mastic (kit?), and lots of small steps at a time. Trial-fit the wooden dash while fitting it to ensure an even/no gap will be created between the two items.

Waldi

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On 6/30/2020 at 10:04 PM, Waldi said:

Dave,

make sure the glue you use can withstand the high temperatures it will be exposed to when in the sun. I used a good quality clear silicone mastic (kit?), and lots of small steps at a time. Trial-fit the wooden dash while fitting it to ensure an even/no gap will be created between the two items.

Waldi

Hi Waldi, good tips there thanks. Ive managed to remove the crash pad from the car now and also separate the vinyl from the foam sufficiently to attempt a repair by cutting the foam pad in half to access the damage on the drivers side where I intend to used expanded foam to repair the pad, and a heat gun to reshape the curve on the vinyl. Then I intend to reassemble using an embedded ally strengthening splint glued in place to fold the two foam halves of the pad together, before re-fitting the vinyl. If it works great, if it doesn't nothing lost. I just prefer the  'original' look rather than new vinyl which usually looks over padded compared with the original. Will remember to trial fit the wooden facia. Thanks again, Dave

 

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22 hours ago, RogerH said:

You shouldn't need much adhesive at all. The window and dash hold it down fairly werll.

 

Roger

Hi Roger

I ike the sound of the Woolies glue that Stuart mentioned, but only need a small quantity as you say. Will check on shelf life. Im challenging myself to do a refurb rather than replace - watch this space!!

Cheers

Dave

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25 minutes ago, TRbeginner said:

Stuart

Thanks again - will this glue work for vinyl to metal and vinyl to foam?

Cheers 

Dave

Yes it will.

Stuart.

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29 minutes ago, TRbeginner said:

Hi Roger

 Will check on shelf life. Im challenging myself to do a refurb rather than replace - watch this space!!

Cheers

Dave

Hi Dave,

because I do not use much adhesive throughout the year, when I do buy a new tin (Ltr) of AF178 I decant it into 50mL glass jars - thank you Ebay.

Fill to the brim  and store upside down especially when partly used.  It should stay good for a number of years.

 

Roger

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Stuart/Roger/All

Stuart - I've followed your advice, shopped at Woolies and now own a litre pot of their best adhesive, as yet unopened. Roger - I'll follow up on your tip to decant for future use.  Thanks both for the tips.

Slightly off topic, but having got this far, I'm replacing anything perishable that looks dodgy, so guidance on material (eg rubber or silicon) for all heater and radiator hoses, would be welcome please. Also a pointer to a supplier who sells these bits and large bulkhead grommets at a decent quality would be helpful if anyone has recommendations please? TR Shop have a tempting set of silicon hoses....

The heater hoses I have removed look in reasonable condition - a sort of fabric.rubber mix, very stiff, original looking - so very old. They look OK, but a devil to get at in the future.....

The aim is to build up from here replacing/refurbing where necessary. Now is not the time for me to go further into a full restoration, despite it being a very tempting option:D

Thanks all - youre a great bunch of people

Dave

 

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I think you'll have to get the grommets by part number as they are all weird sizes. Aren't all water hoses in silicone now? They're probably all supplied by the same manufacturers anyway.

The inside heater hoses aren't difficult to replace in-situ, I've just done mine. Get some stainless hose clips in stock.

While you are under there, consider re-routing the air ducts. The standard setup is to supply cold air to the eyeball vents. If you swap things around, you can route the warm air to the eyeballs which demists the side windows.

Jerry

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All the big suppliers have a grommet kit which will do pretty much all, and do make sure that the hoses have re-enforcing as some of the cheap ones dont and dont last long.

Stuart.

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On 7/7/2020 at 3:00 PM, jerrytr5 said:

I think you'll have to get the grommets by part number as they are all weird sizes. Aren't all water hoses in silicone now? They're probably all supplied by the same manufacturers anyway.

The inside heater hoses aren't difficult to replace in-situ, I've just done mine. Get some stainless hose clips in stock.

While you are under there, consider re-routing the air ducts. The standard setup is to supply cold air to the eyeball vents. If you swap things around, you can route the warm air to the eyeballs which demists the side windows.

Jerry

Hi Jeremy

Thanks for your reply, there seem to be a few outlets selling rubber hoses. I presume silicon is better, but in what respect? Can you expand on the re-routing of the hot air please?

Thanks

Dave

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On 7/7/2020 at 5:01 PM, stuart said:

All the big suppliers have a grommet kit which will do pretty much all, and do make sure that the hoses have re-enforcing as some of the cheap ones dont and dont last long.

Stuart.

Stuart, will look out for the kits, and ensure hoses are re-inforced. Thanks again, Dave

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13 hours ago, TRbeginner said:

Hi Jeremy

Thanks for your reply, there seem to be a few outlets selling rubber hoses. I presume silicon is better, but in what respect? Can you expand on the re-routing of the hot air please?

Thanks

Dave

Best idea is delete the under dash cold air outlets and "T" the hot air to the screen and the dash eyeballs, so have the "T" from the rear outlets of the heater box and blank the front cold air ones off.

Stuart.

 

006 (2) - Copy.JPG

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Pretty much as Stuart's photo, but I used Y connectors instead of T and then fitted a spare eyeball on short pipes from the cold air ducts in case I ever go somewhere hot enough to need cool air in the footwell. It hasn't happened yet.

Jerry

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Hi Jerry,

the only problem is that if you go somewhere that requires cool air on your feet then it is supplied by the external hot and so ins't cool.

I've been looking at AirCon parts from T7Design but it all get rather pricey for a few days of cool feet.

Is it possible to drive with your feet on a bag of frozen peas.  (its a TRiumph thing)

 

Roger

 

 

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Stuart/Jerry & Roger

A bit to think about here - am I likely to ever venture to hot climes and need cold air - probably not. Am I likely to to need hot air on the side windows etc  - definitely yes.

Could I make use of a bag of frozen peas? Definitely yes - on both knees after a session in the garage!  Thanks for the varied ideas - will consider the pros and cons.

Dave

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