woodward Posted June 25, 2020 Report Share Posted June 25, 2020 Hi, Has anyone welded the top fulcrum nuts on a TR4? My memory is that there's not much space in there, and I would be doing this with the car on jack stands and the suspension dropped. Trying to work out if I can do this myself, get a mobile welder to do it or if I need to take the car somewhere. Thanks Myles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted June 25, 2020 Report Share Posted June 25, 2020 Myles, Are you talking about the main castellated nuts on either end (2 in total) or the 4 fulcrum securing nuts inside the fulcrum support tower ? Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 25, 2020 Report Share Posted June 25, 2020 Presumably your referring to the ones in the top of the turret, its not easy on a built car so why would you want to? Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
woodward Posted June 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2020 (edited) Hi - I'm talking about the ones in the top of the turret that attach the top fulcrum to the turret. Wanting to install an adjustable top fulcrum to improve the camber and it's recommended to weld the nuts so you can set it up with out removing the springs each time. Edited June 25, 2020 by woodward Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 25, 2020 Report Share Posted June 25, 2020 I know you should weld it all up once youve set it but I dont remember having to weld the nuts into the turret, was quite a few years ago that I fitted the only one Ive had anything to do with and Ive slept since then Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted June 25, 2020 Report Share Posted June 25, 2020 (edited) I’ve just done this on my 3a at least you need the spring out and the upright off the top ball joint. So it leans out of the way. i also had the fulcrum and top wish bones off and used the adjustable fulcrum roughly in place. you need to get into the spring turret to grind/ clean the welding surface. Then have the nut to be welded on the bolt tightened up so you know it’s sitting correctly and not at an angle ( or you’ll never get the bolt in) and carefully weld the nut in place. Doesn’t need much just to hold it and prevent it turning ... It’s a bit awkward to weld upside down tucked up in the corner of the turret. As you only need to do the inside pair on each side. tip - don’t weld the nut to the bolt inadvertently!!!!! ( ask me how I know !! Lots of dremel work !!!) The hard work is setting repeatable camber when the car is back in the ground !! then tack weld the plates to take the lot apart to fully weld the plates. with it being a 3a I had to re-route the brake pipes too. best of luck ! h ps I think bob did his without welding and clever use of socket extensions etc Edited June 25, 2020 by Hamish Added ps Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted June 25, 2020 Report Share Posted June 25, 2020 From a metallurgical perspective: Be very carefull welding nuts and more important bolts, especially those with a higher strength. The alloys that give these bolts their strength also promote hardness if welded, resulting in fracture. Tack welding a nut would be ok though. I’ve seen 8.8 stud bolts (comparable with 3 stripes on the head) fail after welding. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
YOW500 Posted June 25, 2020 Report Share Posted June 25, 2020 Hi Myles. I have sent you a PM. Russell Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted June 25, 2020 Report Share Posted June 25, 2020 Chopping the top wishbones suited me, 3/8 th removed welded back together and a flitch on the inside of the profile, stronger than original and quite a bit cheaper than adjustable variety. They say the geometry is compromised by chopping but only on the final 1" of suspension travel, never got near using that bit myself. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted June 25, 2020 Report Share Posted June 25, 2020 1 hour ago, Motorsport Mickey said: Chopping the top wishbones suited me, 3/8 th removed welded back together and a flitch on the inside of the profile, stronger than original and quite a bit cheaper than adjustable variety. They say the geometry is compromised by chopping but only on the final 1" of suspension travel, never got near using that bit myself. Mick Richards I tried that first but due to a dodgy ball joint couldn’t get the camber - thought the chassis was the issue. bl00dy annoying - but fitted ebay bargain adjustable fulcrum and had same problem until high articulated ball joints fitted. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted June 25, 2020 Report Share Posted June 25, 2020 One advantage of the adjustable fulcrum is that it moves the pivot axis up as well as inwards, improving "Bump Steer" Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
YOW500 Posted July 14, 2020 Report Share Posted July 14, 2020 Mick Richards. PM sent. Russell Church Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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