cliffpeters Posted June 9, 2006 Report Share Posted June 9, 2006 I'm starting to hear a noise from the rear suspension. It only happens when I'm turning left with enough power that the right rear suspension compresses. When this occurs (fairly sharp turn, throttle on), I hear a series of clicks. It seems to be getting a bit worse and I'm wondering what it might be: axle u-joint? wheel bearing? axle shaft spline? A cursory check with the wheel off didn't reveal anything obviously amiss. Has anybody had a similar situation? Can you offer any ideas about these symptoms? Now that the weather's turned nice, I'd hate to have the car off the road... Thanks, Cliff Peters Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve R Posted June 10, 2006 Report Share Posted June 10, 2006 (edited) Could be the wire wheel splines slipping...........If you have wires that is! do you get it when braking? swap the rear wheels, see if the noise moves to the other side, then the left side hub adapters front to back.the UJ's are also a good bet. Steve R Edited June 10, 2006 by Steve R Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cliffpeters Posted June 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2006 Could be the wire wheel splines slipping...........If you have wires that is! do you get it when braking? swap the rear wheels, see if the noise moves to the other side, then the left side hub adapters front to back.the UJ's are also a good bet.Steve R Thanks, Steve, but I have steel wheels. U-joint seems like a major suspect. This'll be a test of my mechanic abilities! Cliff Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marvmul Posted June 10, 2006 Report Share Posted June 10, 2006 When this occurs (fairly sharp turn, throttle on), I hear a series of clicks. In this situation the 4 small gears in the differential case are turning relatively to each other under load : if these gears are making the clicks, it's harmless. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cliffpeters Posted June 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2006 In this situation the 4 small gears in the differential case are turning relatively to each other under load : if these gears are making the clicks, it's harmless. That's reassuring, thanks. Should I check the gear lube level of the diff? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marvmul Posted June 10, 2006 Report Share Posted June 10, 2006 Cliff, it is not sure the noise is coming from these gears, it's best to try and find the cause positively. Too low an oil level in the diff is rare, the level should reach the filler plug hole. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cliffpeters Posted June 11, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2006 Cliff, it is not sure the noise is coming from these gears, it's best to try and find the cause positively.Too low an oil level in the diff is rare, the level should reach the filler plug hole. Thanks. I share your doubt. I don't think the noise is coming from the diff. I know things can be deceptive, but it sounds like it's coming from closer to the RR wheel, and the noise doesn't sound like it's coming from within a thick, cast iron box, but rather a more sharp, metallic clicking/grinding noise. It also happens on a hard acceleration from stopped, when the suspension squats under power. I this circumstance, it's generally one click/grind as the car launches. I'm still leaning toward the u-joint/wheel bearing as the culprit. Cliff Quote Link to post Share on other sites
philrylance Posted June 12, 2006 Report Share Posted June 12, 2006 Hello to you On a different tack altogether and from personal experience - have a look at the five bolts which hold the wheel hub onto the trailing arm. They are a weak link in the system. They are accessed vial small holes in the outer hub once the brake drum is removed. Mine were v. bad and the loud clicking/grinding noise made for a tow home thanks to Register get you home service insurance. The right hand rear wheel was at a crazy angle and the bolts had pulled out of the alumunium casting of the trailing arm about 10 mm. I had to buy new arm - now all is well. PS don't ever tighten them too tight. Happy motoring Phil Rylance Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cliffpeters Posted June 12, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2006 Hello to you On a different tack altogether and from personal experience - have a look at the five bolts which hold the wheel hub onto the trailing arm. They are a weak link in the system. They are accessed vial small holes in the outer hub once the brake drum is removed. Mine were v. bad and the loud clicking/grinding noise made for a tow home thanks to Register get you home service insurance. The right hand rear wheel was at a crazy angle and the bolts had pulled out of the alumunium casting of the trailing arm about 10 mm. I had to buy new arm - now all is well. PS don't ever tighten them too tight. Happy motoring Phil Rylance Thanks for that advice, Phil. I wouldn't have thought of that!!! Will check it out. Cliff Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jonlar Posted June 13, 2006 Report Share Posted June 13, 2006 Hi Cliff, don't be too rough with them - they're threaded into to alloy with a UNF (instead of UNC thread), and will strip the thread very easily. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cliffpeters Posted June 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2006 Hi Cliff, don't be too rough with them - they're threaded into to alloy with a UNF (instead of UNC thread), and will strip the thread very easily. Thanks for the warning! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jonlar Posted June 13, 2006 Report Share Posted June 13, 2006 Hi Cliff, if there is any problem with these studs (I think it's 6 each side?) holes in T/A need to be drilled out, re-tapped and then "Helicoiled" with UNC fittings, very worthwhile doing if you have to strip the T/As. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cliffpeters Posted June 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2006 Hi Cliff, if there is any problem with these studs (I think it's 6 each side?) holes in T/A need to be drilled out, re-tapped and then "Helicoiled" with UNC fittings, very worthwhile doing if you have to strip the T/As. That'll be a new experience. I've never used a helicoil before. Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jonlar Posted June 14, 2006 Report Share Posted June 14, 2006 Hi Cliff, slightly different to the other sort of coil or cap, if you get my drift, although it may screw well!........? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cliffpeters Posted June 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2006 Hi Cliff, slightly different to the other sort of coil or cap, if you get my drift, although it may screw well!........? Quick report after some days working on my car. I never got to the bottom of what was causing the noise, but as I had the car up in the air with the wheels off I decided to try to install my rear damper conversion kit from CTM. I had been intending to do this for a while but didn't have the ambition to do it in the dead of winter. Today I finally finished the job and took the 6 out for a road test. What a difference the Konis make! And no more clicking/grinding noise! I'm not sure why that is. Clearly the Konis are limiting suspension travel far more effectively, which might have something to do with it. Perhaps it was just the old, overworked right rear damper crying for help. Thanks for your help and suggestions. Cliff Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david ferry Posted June 18, 2006 Report Share Posted June 18, 2006 Cliff, Your shock absorbers should not be limiting suspension travel. If they are, they will soon be destroyed. They are designed to damp the action of the springs, hence the term dampers. David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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