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New Water Pump won’t line up with crank pully


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 I have a 1959 TR-3 which I had the engine rebuilt. When I was replaced the water pump the water pump pully will not line up with the crank pully.

The water pump pully needs to go 1” closer to the engine. Hope someone can tell me what I am doing wrong.

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+1 - the crank pulley is too close to the chain case. There should be a boss visible behind the pulley.  Perhaps the extension piece and pulley have been assembled wrongly? 

Could be the pulley is the wrong way round so the dish is facing rearwards. 

pulley.jpg.f1e916190fc843684cdc0e7d5ce42c8b.jpg

Edited by RobH
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9 hours ago, RogerH said:

Did the old water pump fit correctly?

Could it be possible that the crank pulley is in the wrong position?

 

Roger

Yes the old pump fit fine, and as far as I see, the crank pully can only go 1 way. 
is the crank pully supposed to be seated all the way on the crank?

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11 hours ago, RobH said:

+1 - the crank pulley is too close to the chain case. There should be a boss visible behind the pulley.  Perhaps the extension piece and pulley have been assembled wrongly? 

Could be the pulley is the wrong way round so the dish is facing rearwards. 

pulley.jpg.f1e916190fc843684cdc0e7d5ce42c8b.jpg

The two pulley halves are fitted to item 36 the wrong way round.  items 37 & 38 have been reversed.

38 is the flat pulley, 37 is the dished pulley

You can see it in this blow up of the original post photo.

Cheers

Peter W

crankpulley.jpg.jpeg

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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With regard to all the above comments, which I agree with, the timing hole on the thin half of the pully, should be nearest to the engine i.e. pointer timing mark. Remember, if you dis-assemble the pully, re-assemble so that the timing hole is 180 degrees i.e. opposite the key recess. Otherwise you will loose your TDC timing position.

Rob

Edited by RobTR3
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If you have got to go to the hassle of removing the bottom pulley I might be tempted to go for a thin belt conversion./

Thin belts seem to last longer, I suspect the thicker ones are happy enough at tractor revs but don't have the longevity when reved in the TR application. (Also it is way easier to swap a thin belt if it fails than a thick belt

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31 minutes ago, RobTR3 said:

With regard to all the above comments, which I agree with, the timing hole on the thin half of the pully, should be nearest to the engine i.e. pointer timing mark. Remember, if you dis-assemble the pully, re-assemble so that the timing hole is 180 degrees i.e. opposite the key recess. Otherwise you will loose your TDC timing position.

Rob

Well said.  Important point to get the timing mark correct.

Peter W

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4 minutes ago, Andy Moltu said:

Thin belts seem to last longer, I suspect the thicker ones are happy enough at tractor revs but don't have the longevity when reved in the TR application. (Also it is way easier to swap a thin belt if it fails than a thick belt

It ain't necessarily so Andy -  I agree the standard wide belt is pretty dire but I use a flexible and thinner 17mm 'cogged' belt with the original wide pulleys and they last - ten years and counting.  Easy to fit too, at least on a '3 with steering box. You just turn it to full LH lock and there is space to slide the belt through.

Just saying......

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I think you may just have been lucky.

Having driven thousands of miles on European trips in the company of Al Westbury I can recall numerous stops to replace the fan belt on his 4A up tot he point that he did a thin belt conversion and whilst he continues to break down on a regular basis the  fan belt has dropped out of the equation!

It's not just his car I don't recall any breakdowns on the trips for fan belts apart from the 4 pots cars running wide belts.  I am sure there are some that are better quality and cope with being revved but that was one of the first jobs I did on my 4A.

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Bit late to the party on this one and you already have a solution, but I did exactly the same thing when I changed the front oil seal on the 3 good job I realised before I stuck the front clip back on !

Edited by Graham
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  • 1 year later...

HI chaps --I also have a problem with my pump/ crank pully , my pump look's about 3-4 mm too far back,,,,I have another Tr4 engine not in a car , and that  looks the same? photo's w/ belts are of engine  in car, any idea's,,,,Barry

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It's Barry again---the first photo's are of the dynamo pully / water pump pully, the dyno has more of a flange and this could be illusion? , but the other photos are of either side of the crank and water pump, that one def' to far back--Barry

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It's Barry again---the first photo's are of the dynamo pully / water pump pully, the dyno has more of a flange and this could be illusion? , but the other photos are of either side of the crank and water pump, that one def' to far back--Barry -----photo's 3 and 4 are of the water pump, with s/.edge  either side of the crank pulley not shown--Barry

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