Rocky Posted June 22, 2020 Report Share Posted June 22, 2020 I have a 1959 TR-3 which I had the engine rebuilt. When I was replaced the water pump the water pump pully will not line up with the crank pully. The water pump pully needs to go 1” closer to the engine. Hope someone can tell me what I am doing wrong. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 22, 2020 Report Share Posted June 22, 2020 Did the old water pump fit correctly? Could it be possible that the crank pulley is in the wrong position? Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted June 22, 2020 Report Share Posted June 22, 2020 I think your crank pulley is too near the engine, compare tghe timing pointer position with mine. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted June 22, 2020 Report Share Posted June 22, 2020 (edited) +1 - the crank pulley is too close to the chain case. There should be a boss visible behind the pulley. Perhaps the extension piece and pulley have been assembled wrongly? Could be the pulley is the wrong way round so the dish is facing rearwards. Edited June 22, 2020 by RobH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nobbyc Posted June 23, 2020 Report Share Posted June 23, 2020 any help Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rocky Posted June 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2020 9 hours ago, RogerH said: Did the old water pump fit correctly? Could it be possible that the crank pulley is in the wrong position? Roger Yes the old pump fit fine, and as far as I see, the crank pully can only go 1 way. is the crank pully supposed to be seated all the way on the crank? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nobbyc Posted June 23, 2020 Report Share Posted June 23, 2020 The pulley has been assembled incorrectly. Enlarge your photo and compare to the above. Your alignment bar points to the error. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted June 23, 2020 Report Share Posted June 23, 2020 That crank pulley is definitely assembled incorrectly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted June 23, 2020 Report Share Posted June 23, 2020 (edited) 11 hours ago, RobH said: +1 - the crank pulley is too close to the chain case. There should be a boss visible behind the pulley. Perhaps the extension piece and pulley have been assembled wrongly? Could be the pulley is the wrong way round so the dish is facing rearwards. The two pulley halves are fitted to item 36 the wrong way round. items 37 & 38 have been reversed. 38 is the flat pulley, 37 is the dished pulley You can see it in this blow up of the original post photo. Cheers Peter W Edited June 23, 2020 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
little jim Posted June 23, 2020 Report Share Posted June 23, 2020 Dunno about you Rocky, but I think these blokes are amazing!! Didn't take them long either. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobTR3 Posted June 23, 2020 Report Share Posted June 23, 2020 (edited) With regard to all the above comments, which I agree with, the timing hole on the thin half of the pully, should be nearest to the engine i.e. pointer timing mark. Remember, if you dis-assemble the pully, re-assemble so that the timing hole is 180 degrees i.e. opposite the key recess. Otherwise you will loose your TDC timing position. Rob Edited June 23, 2020 by RobTR3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted June 23, 2020 Report Share Posted June 23, 2020 If you have got to go to the hassle of removing the bottom pulley I might be tempted to go for a thin belt conversion./ Thin belts seem to last longer, I suspect the thicker ones are happy enough at tractor revs but don't have the longevity when reved in the TR application. (Also it is way easier to swap a thin belt if it fails than a thick belt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted June 23, 2020 Report Share Posted June 23, 2020 31 minutes ago, RobTR3 said: With regard to all the above comments, which I agree with, the timing hole on the thin half of the pully, should be nearest to the engine i.e. pointer timing mark. Remember, if you dis-assemble the pully, re-assemble so that the timing hole is 180 degrees i.e. opposite the key recess. Otherwise you will loose your TDC timing position. Rob Well said. Important point to get the timing mark correct. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted June 23, 2020 Report Share Posted June 23, 2020 4 minutes ago, Andy Moltu said: Thin belts seem to last longer, I suspect the thicker ones are happy enough at tractor revs but don't have the longevity when reved in the TR application. (Also it is way easier to swap a thin belt if it fails than a thick belt It ain't necessarily so Andy - I agree the standard wide belt is pretty dire but I use a flexible and thinner 17mm 'cogged' belt with the original wide pulleys and they last - ten years and counting. Easy to fit too, at least on a '3 with steering box. You just turn it to full LH lock and there is space to slide the belt through. Just saying...... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted June 23, 2020 Report Share Posted June 23, 2020 I think you may just have been lucky. Having driven thousands of miles on European trips in the company of Al Westbury I can recall numerous stops to replace the fan belt on his 4A up tot he point that he did a thin belt conversion and whilst he continues to break down on a regular basis the fan belt has dropped out of the equation! It's not just his car I don't recall any breakdowns on the trips for fan belts apart from the 4 pots cars running wide belts. I am sure there are some that are better quality and cope with being revved but that was one of the first jobs I did on my 4A. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Posted June 24, 2020 Report Share Posted June 24, 2020 (edited) Bit late to the party on this one and you already have a solution, but I did exactly the same thing when I changed the front oil seal on the 3 good job I realised before I stuck the front clip back on ! Edited June 24, 2020 by Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
barrytr4 Posted January 12, 2022 Report Share Posted January 12, 2022 HI chaps --I also have a problem with my pump/ crank pully , my pump look's about 3-4 mm too far back,,,,I have another Tr4 engine not in a car , and that looks the same? photo's w/ belts are of engine in car, any idea's,,,,Barry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
barrytr4 Posted January 12, 2022 Report Share Posted January 12, 2022 It's Barry again---the first photo's are of the dynamo pully / water pump pully, the dyno has more of a flange and this could be illusion? , but the other photos are of either side of the crank and water pump, that one def' to far back--Barry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
barrytr4 Posted January 12, 2022 Report Share Posted January 12, 2022 It's Barry again---the first photo's are of the dynamo pully / water pump pully, the dyno has more of a flange and this could be illusion? , but the other photos are of either side of the crank and water pump, that one def' to far back--Barry -----photo's 3 and 4 are of the water pump, with s/.edge either side of the crank pulley not shown--Barry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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