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Hi Billy,

I have not done that conversion but would certainly keep them, and equally important: make sure these stop limit upward travel, not the shocks.

Waldi

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With the lever shock it is a metal pad on the lever arm that makes contact with the rubber stop.   With the telescopic conversion I think it is the shock absorber that limits travel and the rubber stop on the frame does nothing.

Stan

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Depends if you really mean bump and not droop.

The standard lever arm contacts a rubber stop on full droop. This one is not required and my preferred conversion kit uses the fitting as a support for the damper bracket.

The bump stop proper must be retained and you also need to verify that at full bump this bump stop is taking the full load and that your telescopic still has a little travel before the internal bump stop comes into play. The consequence of not making this check is to risk breaking the trailing arm.

Jerry

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As Jerry says the one that contacts the arm of the lever arm is redundant with telescopics. Some of the brackets use this as an additional mount for the bracket (in the main but not exclusively the TUV approved ones)

The other bump stop is essential unless you want to risk breaking the trailing arm.

Test the bump stop functions by removing the rear spring and elevate the trailing arm to make sure the tailing arm makes contact with the bump stop before the shocker is fully compressed.

Normally the vendors sell the correct one for their conversion but mistakes happen and sometimes people swap make and model of shocker and assume they are the same compressed length.

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