swanny Posted June 22, 2020 Report Share Posted June 22, 2020 Just a query really, I am thinking about fitting an electric fuel pump to my Tr 250, currently on strombergs, I know people will have done this but was wondering if anyone has a recommendation for which pump, and where to position, any info including photos would be welcome. Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted June 22, 2020 Report Share Posted June 22, 2020 A Facet "Solid State" pump is cheap enough to experiment, and offers only 3-4psi, so suitable for carbs with no need for a pressure regulator. Not noisy either, but you could mount it on bobbins. Mount it at or below the the tank, as it's a blower, not a sucker! https://www.demon-tweeks.com/facet-solid-state-electronic-fuel-pump-243224/?sku=FSESS501&istCompanyId=a2904180-3a7d-4e56-b876-cf81c9512180&istFeedId=6fbc4b04-fd28-4ce1-8513-835c8f118690&istItemId=wptpipprr&istBid=t&gclid=CjwKCAjwrcH3BRApEiwAxjdPTdb1F-uNuIUMRyqqRHPvED57PHr7P6p5szSM6QgR7bvxjW-YXjRBmhoCOk0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted June 22, 2020 Report Share Posted June 22, 2020 Can't comment on the Webcon, but the Facet Solid State should not be confused with the cylindrical Facet models which are really noisey! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jerrytr5 Posted June 22, 2020 Report Share Posted June 22, 2020 I'm not a fan of Facet pumps. Had two on different cars. Both lasted 13 months (ie: just out of guarantee) before giving up the ghost. Take a look at Carter. I got mine from Real Steel and it must have been on the car for 12 - 15 years by now. Jerry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nobbyc Posted June 22, 2020 Report Share Posted June 22, 2020 Fuel Flow Ecco pump . Had one ten years no issues. They perform like lucas electric in that they only pump on demand. You can hear about 15 clicks while the carbs are primed then car starts first crank. Silent when running and they are compatible with E10 fuels. Need to install inertia cut out switch in supply circuit for safety in case of accident. Mount under floor of boot with filter. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted June 23, 2020 Report Share Posted June 23, 2020 I’ve recently moved to a huco pump https://classiccarbs.co.uk/product/huco-12v-electric-fuel-pump-weber-dellorto-twin-carbs-made-in-germany been very good, low pressure pump on demand. Check the model number because they do a push ( mounted near tank) and pull ( mounted under bonnet) versions available on eBay at less cost. I also fitted an inertia cut out that’s cost effective from eBay. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tthomson Posted June 23, 2020 Report Share Posted June 23, 2020 12 hours ago, jerrytr5 said: I'm not a fan of Facet pumps. Had two on different cars. Both lasted 13 months (ie: just out of guarantee) before giving up the ghost. Take a look at Carter. I got mine from Real Steel and it must have been on the car for 12 - 15 years by now. Jerry Many of Real Steel's staff are furloughed, though they are working with a skeleton staff. (one of their workers lives here!) TT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DavidBee Posted June 23, 2020 Report Share Posted June 23, 2020 11 hours ago, Hamish said: I’ve recently moved to a huco pump https://classiccarbs.co.uk/product/huco-12v-electric-fuel-pump-weber-dellorto-twin-carbs-made-in-germany been very good, low pressure pump on demand. Check the model number because they do a push ( mounted near tank) and pull ( mounted under bonnet) versions available on eBay at less cost. I also fitted an inertia cut out that’s cost effective from eBay. There's always something to learn. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Melcoagain Posted June 24, 2020 Report Share Posted June 24, 2020 Its worth thinking about pump priming and fuel tank draining before you start. Im thinking of fitting a 3way Y fuel tap between the tank and the pump so i can:- 1. Turn off the tank while playing with the fuel system. 2. Drain the tank/system easily. 3. Connect to the drain and turn the tank Off so i can prime the pump. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PhilipB Posted June 25, 2020 Report Share Posted June 25, 2020 On 6/23/2020 at 9:51 AM, Hamish said: I’ve recently moved to a huco pump https://classiccarbs.co.uk/product/huco-12v-electric-fuel-pump-weber-dellorto-twin-carbs-made-in-germany been very good, low pressure pump on demand. Check the model number because they do a push ( mounted near tank) and pull ( mounted under bonnet) versions available on eBay at less cost. I also fitted an inertia cut out that’s cost effective from eBay. +1 for Huco pump and cut out Beware imitation pumps on Ebay, they look the same but Chinese? Also fitted Malpassi filter and Huco 132020 fuel pump relay which takes a signal from the coil to maintain power to the pump but cuts out if the engine stops/stalls even if the ignition is still on Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ntc Posted June 25, 2020 Report Share Posted June 25, 2020 On 6/22/2020 at 11:17 PM, jerrytr5 said: I'm not a fan of Facet pumps. Had two on different cars. Both lasted 13 months (ie: just out of guarantee) before giving up the ghost. Take a look at Carter. I got mine from Real Steel and it must have been on the car for 12 - 15 years by now. Jerry Jerry Surprised by your comment, I have used Facet solid state pumps for over 20 years and never had one fail. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qkingston Posted June 25, 2020 Report Share Posted June 25, 2020 On 6/22/2020 at 11:40 AM, john.r.davies said: A Facet "Solid State" pump is cheap enough to experiment, and offers only 3-4psi, so suitable for carbs with no need for a pressure regulator. Not noisy either, but you could mount it on bobbins. Mount it at or below the the tank, as it's a blower, not a sucker! https://www.demon-tweeks.com/facet-solid-state-electronic-fuel-pump-243224/?sku=FSESS501&istCompanyId=a2904180-3a7d-4e56-b876-cf81c9512180&istFeedId=6fbc4b04-fd28-4ce1-8513-835c8f118690&istItemId=wptpipprr&istBid=t&gclid=CjwKCAjwrcH3BRApEiwAxjdPTdb1F-uNuIUMRyqqRHPvED57PHr7P6p5szSM6QgR7bvxjW-YXjRBmhoCOk0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds I see the road version (lower pressure) states up to engines of 1600cc, does that work ok on a 4a? David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dingle Posted June 26, 2020 Report Share Posted June 26, 2020 Just my own unsolicited opinion, but why not stick with the mechanical AC pump? In over 50 years of TRs, it is one of the components that has never failed. I would add a shut off valve up stream of the pump for convenience when servicing the pump or carbs. Because the fuel level in tank is higher the than carbs or pump (when full), It also prevents filling the crankcase with gas from a stuck carb float valve or leaking diaphragm (which has never happened). Berry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fremont Posted June 26, 2020 Report Share Posted June 26, 2020 I'm with Berry. I've been using the AC type on my TR250s since 1976 when I got the first one, and since 1996 have used them successfully with triple Weber DCOEs. Current supply are alcohol resistant; don't know if you have that issue in the UK/Europe. Some owners would rather not bother with manual priming and go for the electric to avoid it. When I ran Strombergs and used the car for a daily driver or several times per week I never bothered to hand prime. With the Webers they can take up to 30 pumps of the lever to refill them after a week of sitting. Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted June 26, 2020 Report Share Posted June 26, 2020 18 minutes ago, Tom Fremont said: With the Webers they can take up to 30 pumps of the lever to refill them after a week of sitting. Why, do they leak? Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted June 26, 2020 Report Share Posted June 26, 2020 2 hours ago, dingle said: Just my own unsolicited opinion, but why not stick with the mechanical AC pump? In over 50 years of TRs, it is one of the components that has never failed. I would add a shut off valve up stream of the pump for convenience when servicing the pump or carbs. Because the fuel level in tank is higher the than carbs or pump (when full), It also prevents filling the crankcase with gas from a stuck carb float valve or leaking diaphragm (which has never happened). Berry Mine failed half way up loton park hillclimb. then had unrelated fuel feed problems The following years so tried elec pump. Just never went back to ac pump even though refurbished by Dave Davies . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fremont Posted June 26, 2020 Report Share Posted June 26, 2020 1 hour ago, stillp said: Why, do they leak? Pete No, they evaporate through the K&N filters. I imagine it would be even faster without them. Someday I'll design a suitable airbox for them and just cover the inlet when I park it. Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ntc Posted June 26, 2020 Report Share Posted June 26, 2020 14 minutes ago, Tom Fremont said: No, they evaporate through the K&N filters. I imagine it would be even faster without them. Someday I'll design a suitable airbox for them and just cover the inlet when I park it. Tom I have never had that in 25+years of using Webers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fremont Posted June 27, 2020 Report Share Posted June 27, 2020 On 6/26/2020 at 5:13 PM, ntc said: I have never had that in 25+years of using Webers I wouldn't think they should evaporate nearly as rapidly in chronically damp air . Anyway, if you're using an electric pump how would you know if the fuel level has dropped in the carbs? I don't bother priming my driver's because it's usually only a day or two between drives, and the cold start/ accel pumps do fine without. TRIUMPH fitted pumps with priming levers on the twin carb US applications for a reason. The Webers have lots more evaporative potential and seldom come with an airbox to mitigate evaporative loss , like the original Strombergs have - mine don't, anyway. I've only been running Weber DCOEs on my '250s for 24 years so you've got me beat. Dunno about miles racked up though Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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