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Hi Folks,

I have always found that the airflow from the screen demisters is very poor.

So as a follow on to the fan update thread and to get as much air directed to the screen vents as possible I changed the action of the outlet flap

Normally there are three positions for the flap -

fully closed

Half way - where the flap is just in-line with the edge of the box

Fully open

In the fully closed position with the bonnet flap open the side vents give out air (not fan assisted)

However if no air is required from the side vents They=n they can be individually closed or the bonnet flap shut.

The closed bonnet flap and the closed heater box flap are doing the same job.

Thus in order to get a very good seal on the box flap to get as much air to the screen I made the flap bigger so that the flap sat on the edge of the box.

This is easily done and much easier to seal.

So I now have a two position heater box flap

Fully open - toasty feet

Fully closed - air directed to the screen.

If I do not want air to the screen then close the bonnet flap.

It has improved the flow and along with the updated Spal fan there is very good airflow

 

Roger

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Hi Tim,

Sadly no.  I took pics of the new fan but not of the flap.

However it is quiet simple to imagine. 

Set the flap to the position where the screen vent outlets come into play and then extend the flap dimension sideways and forward away from the hinge.. 

I simply pop riveted a larger plate onto the existing flap. 

 

Roger

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Hi Roger, ounds a really usefulI cheap mod, assume you fitted the flap while the heater was out the car, do you think it could be done in situ retaining the larger flap with some super strong Gorilla double sided tape or similar.  How much larger is the new flap is 6cm all round enough?

Chris

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I didn't add anything on this point on the other thread - my heater-box direction flap looked like it had been in a few fights, so i did a bit of straightening out, but i also finished it by using some edging i had in the garage (i think from Wollies)  something like this:  https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/category/330/pvc-edge-trims   With that helped reduce the gap all he way round - not perfect, but certainly better than it was.  

I toyed with the idea of using something like this:   https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/product/1767/rubber-extrusion    but in the end  used what i had in-stock - i think it could help with a real rubber extrusion, although over time it will probably deteriorate.

Roger's idea sounds like a good option as well.

...... Andy

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9 minutes ago, ChrisR-4A said:

Hi Roger, ounds a really usefulI cheap mod, assume you fitted the flap while the heater was out the car, do you think it could be done in situ retaining the larger flap with some super strong Gorilla double sided tape or similar.  How much larger is the new flap is 6cm all round enough?

Chris

Hi Chris,,

I used pop rivets. Doing these insitu would be a bit too much. Not enough clearance from the GB tunnel.

Using double sided sticky tape may not work due to the heat. However I have not used Gorilla tape.

It may be possible with a Silicone RTV that has good sticking properties.

Or, a lid could be made with little clips on it that hold it in place.

The extra lid needs to be just bigger than the box. 6mm would be more than adequate.

 

Roger

PS - what have I started:o

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Thanks Roger, that's the power of advertising, we never know we need something until we see it, :unsure:

Chris 

Edited by ChrisR-4A
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On an associated point, for maximum delivery to the cabin (flap open), make sure that the top of the tunnel carpet/felt is not stopping the flap fully opening.

I  have cut a slot in the top of  the tunnel carpet etc to maximise the opening.

Mike

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