Jump to content

Also just become the owner of a 1955 TR2 !


Recommended Posts

Having read John Murray's post prompted me to write a similar one!

OWP315, TS6491 arrived in an enclosed trailer on Monday. The seller was a nice chap from Northumberland who is/was a member and I was put in touch via the Wharfedale and Nothumbria Group Leaders.

The car was bought by this chap's dad Keith in 1971 and run until 1973 when it was laid up until he retired in 1996. It then went through a full restoration - it looks like the chassis and mechanicals were done by Keith and body, fitting and paint by the Northern TR Centre as it was at Sedgefield, which is also where most of the parts came from (I have a large file of receipts). The body is from a TR3, so it's a bit of a hybrid, but it looks like the TR2 front was retained. Sadly it was never quite put on the road  due to illness and the seller inherited it in 2009, since when it's been dry stored.

I have a copy of the production records extract supplied by the Register in 1994. This gives a build date of 24 May 1955, body colour BRG, trim brown vynide, hood/curtains Fawn, destination Northdown Motors, other spec R M H Nil Wire TC(Fawn) though I don't know what that all means, apart from wire wheels.

So here it is. The paintwork is still great (Jaguar racing green apparently), some of the chrome not so. The underside is spotless save for cobwebs. The front apron is detached - I don't think it's ever been re-fitted. The engine has been turned over regularly but I don't know when it last ran. 

Shouldn't take too long to get her back on the road for the first time in 47 years!

 

 

IMG_20200617_121551v2.jpg

IMG_20200617_121432v2.jpg

IMG_20200617_120809v2.jpg

IMG_20200617_121419v2.jpg

IMG_20200617_121504v2.jpg

IMG_20200607_114904v2.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

First jobs will be:

  • Replace fuel tank. The current tank has been professionally repaired, but one end is covered with fibreglass mat which doesn't inspire confidence! I've ordered an alloy tank from Alicool.
  • Strip/check brakes, maybe replace seals (I have another post going on that one)
  • Do some engine compartment detailing while access is good. 
  • Replace fluids, and get her fired up!
  • Fit front apron

And meanwhile get some re-chroming done - rear overriders and small bits. Any recommendations in Yorkshire?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks like a very nice car, Why do you thing the front is from a '3 ?

I can do you a useful LED upgrade on your rear lights & recommend / supply some for the front.

I presume it still has drum front brakes, & "Lockheed" rear axle ?

Bob.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice car!

Link to post
Share on other sites
28 minutes ago, Lebro said:

Looks like a very nice car, Why do you thing the front is from a '3 ?

I can do you a useful LED upgrade on your rear lights & recommend / supply some for the front.

I presume it still has drum front brakes, & "Lockheed" rear axle ?

Bob.

Bob, no the front is the original TR2 I guess, rest of body is from a 3, unless any other panels were re-used!

I've just done LED upgrades on my 4A but not tried them yet....

Yes it's still got drums and Lockheed rear axle. Maybe a future upgrade. It doesn't have overdrive, another future upgrade!

Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't think there was any difference between a late TR2, & an early TR3 body except the front grill.

Commercial LED bulbs (of suitable quality) will be fine on a '4A but not so in the L549 lamps you have on the '2

I would suggest a pair of my stop / tail / flash bulbs plus my center stop / number plate one.

Anyway you have lots to do in the mean time !

Bob.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Really, really smart! Nice one, Brian. I stand corrected. The air vent scuttle had already been introduced, so the only thing is the correct TR2 chrome strip which has been fitted upside down. Easily rectified.

Edited by DavidBee
Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, Brian Eldred said:

 

I have a copy of the production records extract supplied by the Register in 1994. This gives a build date of 24 May 1955, body colour BRG, trim brown vynide, hood/curtains Fawn, destination Northdown Motors, other spec R M H Nil Wire TC(Fawn) though I don't know what that all means, apart from wire wheels.

 

The codes should be on the reverse of the certificate but they are

R          Righthand drive

M         Imperial calibrated instruments

H         Home Build Spec

Nil       No Heater

Wire   Wire Wheels

TC      Tonneau Cover

 

10 minutes ago, DavidBee said:

There is one difference between TR2  and TR3, as far as I know: the air vent on the scuttle, based on the telling detail of the vent pull on the dashboard capping.

Only TR2s up to TS6156, later ones had the vent.

 

Good luck with the recommissioning.

 

MIke

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi There Brian,

OOOOH's a lucky boy then, thats a nice one.

A couple of things from the pics, 1. Sidescreens, check if you have the alloy wedges that attach to the arms as it helps to pull the screen closer to the bodywork.  There should be a recessed hole in each of the ss legs. These are held in place by round(not dome head) screws into the alloy wedges. These are typically mangled but replacements were available some time ago. Drop me a pm and I'll supply a drawing or picture.

2. You have a rare chrome ring fitted the correct way round which was the precursor to the two full one. This was added as a period update. I think form the photo that it has the flattened ends as opposed to the link pieces and a flat piece. Believe me that this is a rare part and I have been offered stupid money for mine.

And a couple more

You will need to arrange a method to attach and hold the lower sidescreen flap  or it will flap around  like a flappy thing. I think also there should be a zip to allow you to rip all the hairs off you fore arm and open the door. massive coarse thing that ruin you day as blood runs into your shirt.

In hindsight the boot rack attachment is **** and runs the risk of distorting the lid. There is a far better method ,other than the roof rack clamps fitted. I hate them with a vengeance as they look like they were an after thought by a 5 year old are better suited to an MG.

Again drop me a PM and I will show you a better and more pleasing solution.

You have a wonderful car that just needs a little work to commission and you will have a truly wonderful car that has had a period rebuild. Don't overdo it and spoil what you already have. You are now a fully fledged TR owner of the only Real TR!!!! Ducks down and waits for flack.

Passenger grab handle appears to be missing. Let me know if you want one as I have a spare.

Regards 

Rod

Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, mike ellis said:

The codes should be on the reverse of the certificate but they are

R          Righthand drive

M         Imperial calibrated instruments

H         Home Build Spec

Nil       No Heater

Wire   Wire Wheels

TC      Tonneau Cover

 

Only TR2s up to TS6156, later ones had the vent.

 

Good luck with the recommissioning.

 

MIke

Mike, yes I didn't think of looking on the reverse :wub:

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Rodbr said:

Hi There Brian,

OOOOH's a lucky boy then, thats a nice one.

A couple of things from the pics, 1. Sidescreens, check if you have the alloy wedges that attach to the arms as it helps to pull the screen closer to the bodywork.  There should be a recessed hole in each of the ss legs. These are held in place by round(not dome head) screws into the alloy wedges. These are typically mangled but replacements were available some time ago. Drop me a pm and I'll supply a drawing or picture.

2. You have a rare chrome ring fitted the correct way round which was the precursor to the two full one. This was added as a period update. I think form the photo that it has the flattened ends as opposed to the link pieces and a flat piece. Believe me that this is a rare part and I have been offered stupid money for mine.

And a couple more

You will need to arrange a method to attach and hold the lower sidescreen flap  or it will flap around  like a flappy thing. I think also there should be a zip to allow you to rip all the hairs off you fore arm and open the door. massive coarse thing that ruin you day as blood runs into your shirt.

In hindsight the boot rack attachment is **** and runs the risk of distorting the lid. There is a far better method ,other than the roof rack clamps fitted. I hate them with a vengeance as they look like they were an after thought by a 5 year old are better suited to an MG.

Again drop me a PM and I will show you a better and more pleasing solution.

You have a wonderful car that just needs a little work to commission and you will have a truly wonderful car that has had a period rebuild. Don't overdo it and spoil what you already have. You are now a fully fledged TR owner of the only Real TR!!!! Ducks down and waits for flack.

Passenger grab handle appears to be missing. Let me know if you want one as I have a spare.

Regards 

Rod

Hi Rod, yes I think I've got a good one here!

Sidescreens: I do have the alloy wedges, I wondered what they were at first. I don't know if I have the screws. 

I was also wondering  how the flappy bits should be attached, and why there are no lift the dot pegs on the doors to attach the tonneau cover, which I surmise are also used for the sidescreens? Also the window plastic seems to have a miriad of little bubbles in it so will have to be replaced. Maybe get some zips sewn in at the same time. 

I will drop you a PM about the boot rack, but that's a way down the list I feel.

As for a 'real TR', I think my 4a is pretty real, and certainly more civilised. But I had a TR3 briefly when I was a 19 year old student and have hankered after one ever since. That one was finished in silver Hammerite over masking taped holes and was held together by its hard top. I wonder where it is now?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Brian,

Do the wedge socket knurled screws operate as they were typically butchered with pliars or mole grips and often sheared off completely? Worth removing the roll pins and working with grease.

Sides screens were attached by Tenax or Lift the dot fasteners three or four in number. The frame in the Sides screen should be a separate wire hoop that swings independently form the rest on early cars.

 later cars had fixed lower part.

sidesscreen window plastic seems to be hit and miss as my original NOS still in package hood windows had the same tiny bubbles. I accept it as character and Stanpart QA approoved.

You would I think need to specify this and would cost a significant amount to have replaced unless you can do it, Not worth the effort in my view.

Seriously I would not use the boot rack and in any case release the clamps as you can end up with marked paint with the rubber suckers. Just release and take the weight off.

4 /4a debate, personally loved my first TR4's but never liked the handling of the 4a.

My heart is still in sides screen cars and I am in the slow process of restoring my first which I bought in 1972, the slowest resto ever? Still it is one of the first 500.

Once again a cracking car and I love it.

Here's my 3a 

 

 

PICT1791.JPG

Edited by Rodbr
Link to post
Share on other sites

Rob, lovely. I like the white hood and screens. Mine were originally fawn, don't know why the previous owner changed to black, but they are double duck so good quality.

I had someone sew new windows into my TR4a hood so will enquire at least about the side screens. Not investigated the wedge screws yet.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Brian,

I have attached a pic and if you zoom in to the boot handle and see the alternative fixing for the boot rack.

P5300091.JPG

Edited by Rodbr
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Brian,

The boot lid end only needs to fit under the key lock. There is a large nut inside the boot. There will be more than enough clamping force to hold the rack.

If you want a detailed picture of the other end let me know.

Rod

Link to post
Share on other sites

This worked well for me.

Tim

IMG_0635.thumb.JPG.80a0337a14aa48b4e81aa60f49c38470.JPG

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Congratulations Brian, Looks like you have got a lovely car. Be careful fitting the front apron. It will take longer than you expect, and it is easy to damage that lovely paintwork if you are not very careful. You won't want to take it off again once fitted if at all possible, so make sure everything is complete behind it before taking the plunge. I'm not sure if the TR3 wing beadings make it easier or harder. Good luck. Do let us know how you get on.

On the rare occasions when I need extra luggage space in my TR2 I just use a BootBag, so you can always take the boot rack off if you are not happy with the fitting. As you say, it is not a big issue. Have fun!

Link to post
Share on other sites

I can also strongly recommend Bobs LED lights, I use the sides as daytime running lights and following cars can actually see when i am braking

 Keith

Link to post
Share on other sites

I shall certainly consider Bob's lights once she is up and running!

Progress to date:

  • Just fitted Alicool alloy fuel tank. Had a bas***d of a job connecting the outlet pipe, as the boss was not quite aligned and doesn't protrude through the hole in the floor like the old one.
  • Bought some Securon seat belts, model 514/15 as per the Securon site fitting guide. But the stalks are ridiculously short - wouldn't allow any seat adjustment. So I've returned them and swapped for 514/30 (30cm stalks). Not sure how I'm going to fix the reinforcement plates yet :unsure:
  • Ordered brake and clutch cylinder seals all round. Had a discussion in another post as to whether really necessary (it's got silicone fluid in), but for £60 I guess better safe than dead.
  • Had bumper irons and a few other rusty bits sand blasted ready for powder coating.
  • Stripped the carbs and ordered Viton seals to replace the cork ones.
  • Getting stuck in on the chrome with the Solvol Autosol. I think the only bits that will need re-chroming are the rear over riders and the side screen fixing thingys. The front bumper has come up a treat luckily. The inside rims of the chrome wires are pretty rusty which is a shame since they were new and have never seen the road. Outsides OK though I think.

When I've got the carbs back together I'll check the ignition over and try firing her up. Which reminds me to order new coolant hoses....more 24 year old rubber. 

While I was underneath I noticed the diff looks rather oily, though it's been rebuilt so don't know why it should be leaking?

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

Since I got a mention in TRAction, I thought I'd better give an update!

  • Alicool fuel tank fitted. As mentioned, I had to elongate the hole in the boot floor, get a new pipe nut and olive, and jack the tank up with bits of wood to get enough space to get my fingers and a spanner in.
  • Carpets re-fitted with felt underlay. 
  • Seat runners painted and seats re-fitted. It seems I have TR3A seats and rear trim panel.
  • Seat belts fitted
  • Carbs stripped, cleaned and new jet seals and float chamber needles/seats fitted
  • 'Sump full of water' resolved (head core plug replaced) 
  • Steering box rebuilt 
  • Engine finally fired up :D. The first time it ran for a few seconds. 2nd time refused to start - flooded it. New plugs fitted. 3rd time ran for nearly 20 mins at about 1800 rpm, then it boiled, by-pass hose shot off and coolant erupted like mount Vesuvius. 4th time the same, but after 5 mins at tick over. Then I scoured the forum: tested the thermostat OK, fitted a restricter washer in the bypass hose, filled it slowly with the front of the car jacked up and the heater hose disconnected. 5th time success! Ran it with the rad cap off for a few minutes, then for 10 mins or so in a hot garage with the temp gauge fluctuating between 80 and 90C.

Now I'm contemplating fitting an electric fan while the apron is still off. I've read several posts, but a question that I can't find an answer to is whether it's OK to run without the crankshaft fan extension?  It seems it provides some form of harmonic damping?

Next major job will be replacing all the brake and clutch seals.

Brian

 

Fuel tank.jpg

Fuel pipe.jpg

Seat belts.jpg

Carbs.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.