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123 dizzy!!!!!


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Hi all I have any annoying problem with a 123 dizzy and wonder if anyone has any ideas with what to do next. The dizzy is fitted to a Webber’s carbs engine with a fast road cam. It will not start the car. I have set up iaw  the instructions and I am using a coil and ht leads supplied by power spark. The engine would not start so I changed the dizzy to an old one on points and behold it started. I put the 123 back in and nothing doing. Out it came again and in went the 123 and nothing! I changed the coil nothing, I changed the leads - nothing. Went back to the original and she started first turn. After a frustrating morning I contacted 123 in holland and they were extremely helpful with a number of suggestions but still nothing doing. They then suggested it was a faulty unit and I sent it back to them for investigation. They have checked it to find nothing wrong and suggest it may be the way it is set up? Grrr i now wonder if anyone else has had this problem? I have fitted 123’s before without a problem but this one is proving difficult. Any suggestions out there please? I understand that some HT leads may not be compatible with use on a 123? I am looking at fitting mangy cours leads but it’s not a cheap fix to get wrong. 

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Is the offset drive on the 123 in the same place as on your distributor shaft, and does the rotor arm point to the same lead when you swop them over?  make sure you have carbon leads with most or the Hall effect electronic modules.

John

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Hi apologies if your doing this, but from memory when I re installed my 123 you had to install it switch on the ignition with the coil disconnected rotate in one direction until the green LED came on then turn the other way  it until the green light just went out. The model I have fitted is the first generation, not the more modern one that you set up using your phone. Don't know if this helps but 123 do have the full install guide on their web site. 

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Hi yes all set up wrt the instructions in the manual. The red Bosch coil and carbon leads recommended are ordered and I will await and see the outcome when everything arrives here.

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That is surprising, i have heard many positive thoughts on these, i'd be surprised if it wasn't something quite simple...... I will watch this discussion with interest as I have one on my wish-list.

...... Andy

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Noted this in the instructions,  seems key on and crank straight away.....  current-timeout after +/- 1 second. If the engine is not running, the current is switched off to prevent overheating of the coil 

This wont help with a PI if you let the pump run, shouldn't affect your Webers, but seems you need to crank as soon as key on.

John

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Update - the 123 has been returned to me from Holland, and I now await the Bosch red coil from the uk should be today or tomorrow. I know that the plug leads are good as I spent the weekend racing around a track in Albi  department of Tarn and the car never missed a beat. I am sure all will be good. As the car is on Webber’s and not PI it should be easier to start. As mentioned it fires up 1st time on a normal dizzy on points. There is also a high torque starter fitted. So standby for further update over the next couple of days. Clem

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Update - 123 fitted with new Bosch red coil and original leads - started 1st time. Lesson learned fit the recommended coil with the 123.

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My 1974 USA TR6 had the ballast resistor feed to the 6v coil originally and when I switched to the 123 I fitted a 12v Lucas sports coil and bypassed the ballast wire so the coil always gets the full 12v. Been running like this for over 10 years and the only problem has been fried rotor arms.

Stan

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Apparently the 123 requires a coil of 1ohm resistance the normal ones are 3 and that gives to weak a spark.  Now I need to find the correct advance curve setting.

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12 hours ago, foster461 said:

My 1974 USA TR6 had the ballast resistor feed to the 6v coil originally and when I switched to the 123 I fitted a 12v Lucas sports coil and bypassed the ballast wire so the coil always gets the full 12v. Been running like this for over 10 years and the only problem has been fried rotor arms.

Stan

Which does seem to be a perennial problem with the 123.

Stuart.

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3 hours ago, stuart said:

Which does seem to be a perennial problem with the 123.

Stuart.

The problem seems to be with the rotor arms with the embedded resistor and it is not just the 123 that has the problem. I see people with other systems complaining. I have not found a source for resistor free rotor arms so I just carry spares. They fail evey couple of years without warning. The rotor arm just melts.

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Has this been fed back to the 123 guys in holland?  If they are unaware they can’t remedy the problem? 

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