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Maxpeeding Rods


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Have acquired a set for the 4A. Should have gone in last winter but time and life have delayed engine removal until this winter.

One of the occasional contributors to the forum who builds race engines recommended them to me and said that at worst they were vastly better than the originals and vastly cheaper than Carrillos and he had had no problems in the engines he had used them on.

When fitting to the 6 pot engines a bit of fettling is required as their H frame can contact the bottom of cylinders but this is below the important part of the bore.

I suspect people assume they can’t be any good for that price.

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37 minutes ago, Andy Moltu said:

Not sure if that one only works on Father’s Day as it was on an email with Father’s Day discount.

Thanks Andy. I presume the code is for the direct website if so I’ll try it as it would be a great price! 

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They will still negotiate...bought 15 mins ago, £175 for a set of 4 delivered free in UK. Mine are coming next week, If you want to know how PM me.

Mick Richards

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6 minutes ago, Lebro said:

:angry:

Sorry Bob.

Mick Richards

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I have also heard good things about these rods, and they even come with ARP conrod bolts, which are nearly the cost of the rods alone !

I actually have a set of Carrillo rods in my 6, but I have another engine in the garage, and would consider a set of these rods for that engine build.

 

Cheers.

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Peter, yes, you know you do!

Fitted last year as part of the engine rebuild and ~600 miles since

The engineer who did most of the work was very impressed with them, regardless of the price. Very well finished, 2/3 of the weight of standard con rods, balanced to the gram and genuine ARP bolts. We were looking to replace just the bolts but with the relatively small addtional cost, it was a no-brainer. The engine seems to rev even more freely now. All good to date.

Phil

 

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8 minutes ago, PhilipB said:

Peter, yes, you know you do!

Fitted last year as part of the engine rebuild and ~600 miles since

The engineer who did most of the work was very impressed with them, regardless of the price. Very well finished, 2/3 of the weight of standard con rods, balanced to the gram and genuine ARP bolts. We were looking to replace just the bolts but with the relatively small addtional cost, it was a no-brainer. The engine seems to rev even more freely now. All good to date.

Phil

 

You talked me into it.  They will go with my stash of other engine parts.

Peter W

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1 hour ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Now out of stock!

Stuart.

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On 6/14/2020 at 4:15 PM, aterro said:

Yes, I have a set in my 4a and have done for quite a while now.

I recall my first drive with these and the engine pickup was noticeably quicker, a bit like taking weight off the flywheel.

Recommended by me that's for sure!

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Normal ARP method as per their website address, I might have a sheet in the workshop from when I last fitted some ARP bolts, I’ll post if I have. 
Lovely bolts but costly buying them aftermarket.  Basic procedure will be clean rods, check threads on bolts and rod for cleanliness, Fit bolts after lubing the threads either with seller supplied lube ( will they ?) or a mix of moly grease and oil ( I think from memory). The fastening torque figures are normally specified differently as per dia bolt ( supplied ?) and normally torque only with no angular finish, but again I should have that somewhere. I’ll post in a couple of hours.
As for little end finishing almost certainly left undersize so will need attending to, and personally I’d always hone rather than ream ( finish) so local engineering shop might get a call if necessary

Mick Richards

Edited by Motorsport Mickey
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Thanks Mick.

Only come across ARP bolts once before, holding the cylinder heads down on my VM diesel Jeep Cherokee. With those you had an initial torque, then a rotation in degrees, then a second rotation.

Bob.

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