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New 1962, whoops, 1960 TR3 A Owner


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Plus 1 on David Tushingham Cheftush. nice guy who's has done some restorations of seriously decayed TR's. In Ontario and knows a lot about the cars, can put you onto "Yank" terminology and also s

David, if you have registered and can log on to the members only part of the site you can access workshop manuals etc from there and should be able to find a wiring diagram. The horn button simply ear

Hi David, Nice car, pretty sure that there must be more TR owners in your area. Enjoy the TR! Yves

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2 hours ago, RobH said:

The trick is to find a fuse-holder block which has the fuses close enough together to allow it to fit in the box. Many of them are spaced too far apart which makes the block too long or else have connecting tags either side which makes it too wide.  Some minor surgery may be necessary.  

 

Thanks.  Anything to clean this mess up so I can run the brake pipe down in it's proper position:

 

213109582_Theratsnest.jpeg.4c42dbef60490c21a7c5f51b26bae798.jpeg

 

I also found this lovely piece of craftsmanship when disassembling the wiring.  I am very glad I decided to replace the wiring harness.  Any doubts about my competence evaporated when I saw this.  It needs to be done no matter what.

1580392839_Fireghjazard.jpeg.f8f8c365bb6b08f2895c0768913c394b.jpeg

 

 

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Oh dear that is a bit of a rat's nest David.

Rod's photo above posted on 08 September shows how it could be tidied with a traditional, covered fuse box.

On my car as I have an alternator, I simply disposed of the defunct control box and the single, open original fuse box, used a 4 way connector and installed two, original-type covered fuse boxes: one for all the original connections and a second for all the add ons like fuel pump, fan, 12v outlet, windscreen washers, etc. Not original but (reasonably) neat and tidy.

DSC05477.thumb.jpg.762000a9b30ee99617ab4b74ad10e135.jpg

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28 minutes ago, MilesA said:

Oh dear that is a bit of a rat's nest David.

Rod's photo above posted on 08 September shows how it could be tidied with a traditional, covered fuse box.

On my car as I have an alternator, I simply disposed of the defunct control box and the single, open original fuse box, used a 4 way connector and installed two, original-type covered fuse boxes: one for all the original connections and a second for all the add ons like fuel pump, fan, 12v outlet, windscreen washers, etc. Not original but (reasonably) neat and tidy.

DSC05477.thumb.jpg.762000a9b30ee99617ab4b74ad10e135.jpg

 

That looks very good.  Thanks Miles.

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16 hours ago, Lebro said:

Thanks Bob

Actually that is an older photograph.

As you note, I have your LEDs on the rear brake lights, but also LEDs for the rear indicators, white / orange LEDs under the clear glass domes for the front side lights / indicators and the essential electronic flasher unit. The only lights I have not yet uprated are the headlamps. I have the kit recommended, but not got round to pulling it all apart and sorting out (despite lockdown!).

Like you, I thoroughly recommend all these upgrades to anyone who has not yet done it.

Miles

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4 hours ago, MilesA said:

Thanks Bob

Actually that is an older photograph.

As you note, I have your LEDs on the rear brake lights, but also LEDs for the rear indicators, white / orange LEDs under the clear glass domes for the front side lights / indicators and the essential electronic flasher unit. The only lights I have not yet uprated are the headlamps. I have the kit recommended, but not got round to pulling it all apart and sorting out (despite lockdown!).

Like you, I thoroughly recommend all these upgrades to anyone who has not yet done it.

Miles

 

I have Marchal headlights.  I am very attached to them.  What is the recommended LED upgrade for the headlights? 

After sleeping on it I really like the duplicated covered fuse box solution.`Thanks again Miles. I think I am going to do that in lieu of a specially designed regulator shell.....which I was thinking of developing.  And still might try.

Edited by David Owen
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6 minutes ago, Lebro said:

 

 

Thanks Bob. I will keep that link handy.  It's the colour of the light....it's just cold...no soul. 

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11 minutes ago, David Owen said:

 

 

Thanks Bob. I will keep that link handy.  It's the colour of the light....it's just cold...no soul. 

Go for the warm white option?

https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/collections/headlight-led-bulbs/products/pair-of-warm-white-led-headlights-h4-hi-lo-beam-conversion-9-32v-excellent-beam-pattern?variant=8239029715039

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Not wanting to put a downer on this, maybe its my advancing years (65), but I find that modern ultra bright headlamps on some modern cars too bright and they dazzle anyway even when dipped.

Dipped beam bulbs used to be limited by law in this country to a certain wattage, think it might have been 45w, as a way of ensuring there was no dazzle. It seems that either due to our following of relaxed EE rulings, or by the manufacturers producing higher intensity bulbs which draw less than the legal 45w, this limitation has been side stepped.

I did read recently that the motoring organisations  (AA/RAC) had taken note of this and were lobbying for a new standard measured in Lumens to bring this back under control.

Ralph.

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2 hours ago, David Owen said:

 

I have Marchal headlights.  I am very attached to them.  What is the recommended LED upgrade for the headlights? 

After sleeping on it I really like the duplicated covered fuse box solution.`Thanks again Miles. I think I am going to do that in lieu of a specially designed regulator shell.....which I was thinking of developing.  And still might try.

Hi David,

What bulb does your Marchal headlamp use?  Is it the H4 or the European P45T?   More research or a photo needed.

Cheers

Peter W

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17 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

Not wanting to put a downer on this, maybe its my advancing years (65), but I find that modern ultra bright headlamps on some modern cars too bright and they dazzle anyway even when dipped.

Dipped beam bulbs used to be limited by law in this country to a certain wattage, think it might have been 45w, as a way of ensuring there was no dazzle. It seems that either due to our following of relaxed EE rulings, or by the manufacturers producing higher intensity bulbs which draw less than the legal 45w, this limitation has been side stepped.

I did read recently that the motoring organisations  (AA/RAC) had taken note of this and were lobbying for a new standard measured in Lumens to bring this back under control.

Ralph.

Photographs can be deceptive, but this is a photo of my 3A on standard bulbs, on a damp, overcast morning in Yorkshire recently. Not a view I normally see, but not exactly confidence-inducing either.

Having said that, I prefer the dull, warm glow of standard bulbs on the gauges and took out the LEDs I had installed. Less of a safety issue though.

2010094834_Version2.jpg.c3c4496aeee17611ccae2054a45de50b.jpg

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20 hours ago, David Owen said:

After sleeping on it I really like the duplicated covered fuse box solution.`Thanks again Miles. I think I am going to do that in lieu of a specially designed regulator shell.....which I was thinking of developing.  And still might try.

David

If it is of any help, I have created wiring diagrams for my arrangement. If you would like copies, just PM you email address I am happy to share them with you.

The photo was taken shortly after the tidying up was completed and the 4 way block is now securely bolted down. I have also since unravelled the bodged overdrive wiring and used the 4th connector on the block as a source for more traditional wiring of the overdrive system.

Miles

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18 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Hi David,

What bulb does your Marchal headlamp use?  Is it the H4 or the European P45T?   More research or a photo needed.

Cheers

Peter W

They are H4s so the warm white option could be the answer.  It will also solve the headlight power draw issue.  That would be a bit of a home run!  Thanks to you and Bob.

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I think the next month is going to be spent cleaning, replacing cage nuts, putting in the correct horns and deciding whether or not to replace the rad.  The hoses are definitely being replaced.  And the fan squeaks after it's been running for a while, although that's an easy fix.  Oh and the horn wiring. 

Dirt.jpeg.2be05c44911a6173e41e98b44fba6500.jpeg

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Hi David,

I can't remember if anyone has suggested this earlier in the thread but I would certainly recommend putting a relay into your headlamp circuit.  It saves the voltage drop associated with sending the power via the switch and is a relatively easy mod.  I have pretty much all my electrics going through relays.

Rgds Ian

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Just about worth doing with Halogen bulbs, not worth doing if using LED bulbs.

I had them fitted up till two weeks ago, now removed.

Bob.

Edited by Lebro
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This is the point where things start coming back together.  Missing cage nuts welded into place (by a friends son) and now I start to reassemble.   I wonder how many extra parts I will have and whether the right hand signals will be initiated by pushing the horn button?  Lots of grinding, priming and cleaning to do first.  Then the wiring harness.

CGs.jpg.0a8b7e8f49ea32096239c44e353e3590.jpg

 

 

Luckily I found this and few light bulbs went on......I think I am going to redraw this with the dual fuse boxes incorporated.

 

1160496106_WiringDiagram.jpg.0e7ce9b5d0b2c9714df0e4722478fb3f.jpg

 

PS.  I am writing in this fashion in the hope that if someone sees I am about to do something life threatening or that may involve the fire department they will stop me.

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  • 2 weeks later...
18 hours ago, David Owen said:

Good morning. According to my Lindt chocolate advent calendar, it is December 15th. Only 9 more shopping days until Christmas!

And I always thought it was only the clocks that were different over there.

I suspect you are eating too many chocolates David.

Ralph

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On 11/23/2020 at 1:40 AM, David Owen said:

This is the point where things start coming back together.  Missing cage nuts welded into place (by a friends son) and now I start to reassemble.   I wonder how many extra parts I will have and whether the right hand signals will be initiated by pushing the horn button?  Lots of grinding, priming and cleaning to do first.  Then the wiring harness.

CGs.jpg.0a8b7e8f49ea32096239c44e353e3590.jpg

 

 

Luckily I found this and few light bulbs went on......I think I am going to redraw this with the dual fuse boxes incorporated.

 

1160496106_WiringDiagram.jpg.0e7ce9b5d0b2c9714df0e4722478fb3f.jpg

 

PS.  I am writing in this fashion in the hope that if someone sees I am about to do something life threatening or that may involve the fire department they will stop me.

Looking at your picture of the wing bead and tags, I pop riveted my tags to the wing with very small stainless blind rivets. It made replacing the front shroud a whole lot easier. 

Rgds Ian

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