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New 1962, whoops, 1960 TR3 A Owner


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1 hour ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Is there are obvious square sticking out the front of the starter?    If so turn it 90 degrees with a spanner (wrench)    That will present a different set of contacts of the commutator to the carbon brushes.   If it now works a new set of carbon brushes, a commutator skim on a lathe and a new rear armature bearing are needed.

Peter W

No there doesn't appear to be Peter.

Starter.jpg.c36236c5c46941977e56d6aed26c36e3.jpg

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Plus 1 on David Tushingham Cheftush. nice guy who's has done some restorations of seriously decayed TR's. In Ontario and knows a lot about the cars, can put you onto "Yank" terminology and also s

David, if you have registered and can log on to the members only part of the site you can access workshop manuals etc from there and should be able to find a wiring diagram. The horn button simply ear

Hi David, Nice car, pretty sure that there must be more TR owners in your area. Enjoy the TR! Yves

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6 hours ago, David Owen said:

No there doesn't appear to be Peter.

Starter.jpg.c36236c5c46941977e56d6aed26c36e3.jpg

That is the pre engaged type of starter, or "high torque" motor that many now use to replace the old heavy Lucas item. These have their own solenoid to pull in the drive gear and can be used either with or without the original bulkhead mounted solenoid. As you have replaced the bulkhead solenoid I would suspect the one on the starter has failed. Time to remove it and get it checked out or replaced.

Ralph

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I would try a direct feed from battery to the main starter connection to see if it spins. 
if it does the problem is up stream. 
if it doesn’t it’s the starter.

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Do you think the solenoid up on the bulkhead is ok?

1/2 hour job.

disconnect battery 
Undo the three phillips headed cross slot screws and remove the cover to the solenoid plunger and contacts. On the starter motor.  2 are visible in your photo.


Pull out the plunger and contact disc.  

Clean the contact disc with fine abrasive.

Clean the two contacts inside the housing that the contact disc is pulled to by the solenoid plunger.  

Wipe clean  spray with contact lube/cleaner.  

Refit  and test.

Dirty contact discs are not uncommon on this type of starter.

Peter W

image.jpeg.f83412b3b130d4bf58fcb6e4a49a9387.jpeg

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2 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Do you think the solenoid up on the bulkhead is ok?

1/2 hour job.

disconnect battery 
Undo the three phillips headed cross slot screws and remove the cover to the solenoid plunger and contacts. On the starter motor.  2 are visible in your photo.


Pull out the plunger and contact disc.  

Clean the contact disc with fine abrasive.

Clean the two contacts inside the housing that the contact disc is pulled to by the solenoid plunger.  

Wipe clean  spray with contact lube/cleaner.  

Refit  and test.

Dirty contact discs are not uncommon on this type of starter.

Peter W

image.jpeg.f83412b3b130d4bf58fcb6e4a49a9387.jpeg

 

 

I just replaced the Solenoid on the bulkhead.  The problem was intermittent both with the old one (that liked to smoke) and the new one.

I think I will try Hamish's direct feed to the starter.  Paramedic's on call.

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5 hours ago, David Owen said:

 

 

I just replaced the Solenoid on the bulkhead.  The problem was intermittent both with the old one (that liked to smoke) and the new one.

I think I will try Hamish's direct feed to the starter.  Paramedic's on call.

 

 

Figures, it is starting now.  I'll have to wait until it stops working again.....somewhere in the Niagara wine region miles from anywhere useful.  :lol:

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I am pretty certain that the rear oil seal on the gearbox is leaking.  This is causing oil to be thrown up onto the tunnel and it is leaking down onto the right hand floor panel inside the cabin.

Do I need to remove the gearbox to replace that seal?  If I do, what else should I do when the gearbox is out?

I did search this and everything was crank seal related.

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Hi David, 

if you remove the tunnel you can see the output flange on the gearbox. You will probably have to completely remove the propshaft to get enough room to work but should be able to remove the drive flange and replace the oil seal. You may need to devise some way of locking the drive flange while slackening the large nut, I usually manage by putting a screwdriver through one of the bolt holes and jamming another in behind that to lever on.

Check the drive flange where the seal runs as they can wear a groove and may need replacing or use a speedi sleeve.

Ralph

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On 6/20/2021 at 2:51 AM, Ralph Whitaker said:

Hi David, 

if you remove the tunnel you can see the output flange on the gearbox. You will probably have to completely remove the propshaft to get enough room to work but should be able to remove the drive flange and replace the oil seal. You may need to devise some way of locking the drive flange while slackening the large nut, I usually manage by putting a screwdriver through one of the bolt holes and jamming another in behind that to lever on.

Check the drive flange where the seal runs as they can wear a groove and may need replacing or use a speedi sleeve.

Ralph

 

 

Thank you very much Ralph. 

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This is interesting, this car has the same sort of disparity between engine block # and the car's serial # as mine does.  Although that serial # looks to be a 59, maybe even a 58.

https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1188363

 

BEAUTIFUL OLD RESTORATION 1960 TRIUMPH TR3A

MARQUE TRIUMPH
MODEL TR3A
YEAR 1960

CHASSIS N. TS 61473 L
ENGINE TS 36752
CAPACITY 1991 cc
KM SHOWN 10975
OWNERS 1 FROM 1995
CERTIFICATIONS ASI
INTERIOR BLACK LEATHER
OUTSIDE RED
SOFT TOP BLACK
OPTIONS • CHROMED WIRE WHEELS
• LEATHER INTERIOR
• HOOD FRAME COVER
• TONNEAU COVER
• TRIUMPH RUBBER MATS
• LUGGAGE RACK
• BADGES
• HIGH SPEED STRATER MOTOR

 

 

Edited by David Owen
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15 hours ago, David Owen said:

This is interesting, this car has the same sort of disparity between engine block # and the car's serial # as mine does.  Although that serial # looks to be a 59, maybe even a 58.

https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1188363

 

BEAUTIFUL OLD RESTORATION 1960 TRIUMPH TR3A

MARQUE TRIUMPH
MODEL TR3A
YEAR 1960

CHASSIS N. TS 61473 L
ENGINE TS 36752
CAPACITY 1991 cc
KM SHOWN 10975
OWNERS 1 FROM 1995
CERTIFICATIONS ASI
INTERIOR BLACK LEATHER
OUTSIDE RED
SOFT TOP BLACK
OPTIONS • CHROMED WIRE WHEELS
• LEATHER INTERIOR
• HOOD FRAME COVER
• TONNEAU COVER
• TRIUMPH RUBBER MATS
• LUGGAGE RACK
• BADGES
• HIGH SPEED STRATER MOTOR

 

 

Just means its had a replacement lump fitted.

Stuart.

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20 hours ago, David Owen said:

This is interesting, this car has the same sort of disparity between engine block # and the car's serial # as mine does.  Although that serial # looks to be a 59, maybe even a 58.

https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1188363

 

BEAUTIFUL OLD RESTORATION 1960 TRIUMPH TR3A

MARQUE TRIUMPH
MODEL TR3A
YEAR 1960

CHASSIS N. TS 61473 L
ENGINE TS 36752
CAPACITY 1991 cc
KM SHOWN 10975
OWNERS 1 FROM 1995
CERTIFICATIONS ASI
INTERIOR BLACK LEATHER
OUTSIDE RED
SOFT TOP BLACK
OPTIONS • CHROMED WIRE WHEELS
• LEATHER INTERIOR
• HOOD FRAME COVER
• TONNEAU COVER
• TRIUMPH RUBBER MATS
• LUGGAGE RACK
• BADGES
• HIGH SPEED STRATER MOTOR

 

 

Mine is a 1959 car and from memory has a chassis number that is after the one shown, so something is not right. 

Rgds Ian

Edited by Ian Vincent
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22 minutes ago, Ian Vincent said:

Mine is a 1959 car and from memory has a chassis number that is after the one shown, so something is not right. 

Rgds Ian

LHD and in the US cars were often registered as the next year if they came in after the middle of the year

Stuart.

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35 minutes ago, stuart said:

LHD and in the US cars were often registered as the next year if they came in after the middle of the year

Stuart.

Yup.  Mine is registered as a 62 but is a 60.  I haven't been able to correct it due to Covid....or haven't wanted to go to the licence bureau.

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On 5/31/2021 at 3:18 PM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

I put it in the catalogue for TR4A  As used on TR250/5/6    Fitted one on brother’s TR2 back in the early 80’s when were writing the catalogues.

It fits from the rigid pipe with the banjo fitting to the gauge.  Do not forget the leather washer at the gauge fitting.

pt no 138308

https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/instruments-cables-dash-switches-tr4-4a-1961-67.html

 

Peter W
 

 

 

Hi Peter,

 

Do you think it would be possible to shorten this nylon pipe replacement and the brass "original style" pipe so that the brass pipe runs from the flex hose and ends a couple of inches through the bulkhead where it is connected the nylon pipe which is completely hidden behind the dash?

I think I am asking what would be the best way to do this?  (join them)

Cheers,

David

Edited by David Owen
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1 hour ago, David Owen said:

 

Hi Peter,

 

Do you think it would be possible to shorten this nylon pipe replacement and the brass "original style" pipe so that the brass pipe runs from the flex hose and ends a couple of inches through the bulkhead where it is connected the nylon pipe which is completely hidden behind the dash?

I think I am asking what would be the best way to do this?  (join them)

Cheers,

David

Never tried to do it.  
Challenge will be the female fitting to connect the nylon pipe to the rigid pipe..

  Also more joints mean more possible leaks.

Peter W

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On 6/19/2021 at 9:25 PM, David Owen said:

I am pretty certain that the rear oil seal on the gearbox is leaking.  This is causing oil to be thrown up onto the tunnel and it is leaking down onto the right hand floor panel inside the cabin.

Do I need to remove the gearbox to replace that seal?  If I do, what else should I do when the gearbox is out?

I did search this and everything was crank seal related.

mine was too

IMG_2137.jpg.935da1c3186e915b678085cf41599589.jpg

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Happiness is fully functional gauges!  :D

 

GW.jpg.7399e478c0a92e9db143696f7637289f.jpg

2118727158_TempCapillary.png.ce4fb319faf0b1270a3ec29c3a8966e3.png

Will strap the capillary to the heater pipe tomorrow.  And then the fuel line next winter when that gets rerouted.

 

And I have to change that valve cover.:angry:

Edited by David Owen
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