Jump to content

New 1962, whoops, 1960 TR3 A Owner


Recommended Posts

13 minutes ago, David Owen said:

Has anyone fashioned a rubber pad to put between the windshield centre support and the car?  It seems wrong to have metal on metal.  OR am I missing something?  I checked a couple of catalogues and didn't see anything.

Item 15   pt no 602246

https://mossmotors.com/catalogsearch/result/?cat=&q=602246

But at £6.00 I'd fashion my own

Peter W

 

 

Buffer.jpeg

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 827
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Plus 1 on David Tushingham Cheftush. nice guy who's has done some restorations of seriously decayed TR's. In Ontario and knows a lot about the cars, can put you onto "Yank" terminology and also s

David, if you have registered and can log on to the members only part of the site you can access workshop manuals etc from there and should be able to find a wiring diagram. The horn button simply ear

Hi David, Nice car, pretty sure that there must be more TR owners in your area. Enjoy the TR! Yves

Posted Images

4 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Item 15   pt no 602246

https://mossmotors.com/catalogsearch/result/?cat=&q=602246

But at £6.00 I'd fashion my own

Peter W

 

 

Buffer.jpeg

 

 

I have that Peter, I meant the base of the the support.  Sorry.

Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, David Owen said:

 

 

I have that Peter, I meant the base of the the support.  Sorry.

It wouldn`t have had anything originally , but you could make a thin card gasket if you wanted. Mine is just bolted to the scuttle panel as I don`t have the mirror (I have a stick on item mounted at the top of the screen}. 

Ralph

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hmmm....I am just wondering if the gauge of the wire from the lights switch to the panel lights rheostat should be 14 or 16?

I am also wondering if the rheostat drops the voltage to the dash lights even at full brightness.  I was going to bypass the switch itself as I am missing one of the screws that connect the wires to each side of the rheostat.  Is this OK to go ahead with?

The new wiper switch I have does not fit into the alloted hole in the dash panel.  It is the same switch that is labelled as the old style panel lights switch from Moss.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

David.

The positions of the wiper switch & the panel switch / rheostat were swapped at some point during the production of the sidescreen cars.

The wiper switch  requires the same size hole as the older panel switch, & on older cars the panel switch was above the wiper switch.

When the dimmable panel lights were introduced this required a rheostat to be fitted instead of the switch, & the rheostat is a larger item, & did not easily fit on the panel in the top position. so the positions were reversed, & the wiper switch was fitted above the panel rheostat.

Regarding wire gauge for the panel lights, all together they add up to 13 Watts, which will draw approx 1 amp, so thick wire is not required for them.

(Even less if you have fitted LED panel lights)

Bob.

Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, David Owen said:

I was going to bypass the switch itself as I am missing one of the screws that connect the wires to each side of the rheostat.  Is this OK to go ahead with?

No problem doing that. The lights are not exactly bright even when full on. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
48 minutes ago, Lebro said:

David.

 

 

When the dimmable panel lights were introduced this required a rheostat to be fitted instead of the switch, & the rheostat is a larger item, & did not easily fit on the panel in the top position. so the positions were reversed, & the wiper switch was fitted above the panel rheostat.

 

Bob.

I think this is incorrect. The rheostat panel switch creates heat when being used dimmed, and was therefore moved to the top of the panel otherwise damage would occur to the plastic warning lights.

Ralph

Link to post
Share on other sites
20 minutes ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

The rheostat panel switch creates heat when being used dimmed, and was therefore moved to the top of the panel otherwise damage would occur to the plastic warning lights.

My post 60000 TR3A has the rheostat in the middle, as Bob says.   The control was actually moved down, not up. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
25 minutes ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

I think this is incorrect. The rheostat panel switch creates heat when being used dimmed, and was therefore moved to the top of the panel otherwise damage would occur to the plastic warning lights.

Ralph

Ralph / David.

Yes, you were 9% right  it seems ! here is an extract from Bill P's "Original Triumph TR2/3/3A" book:

1247638891_Panellightswitch.thumb.jpg.cd81a71f3797cd4a4f4b7879d6e83ac9.jpg

David, note the last paragraph, perhaps your dash was meant to have the two speed wiper switch.

Bob.

 

P.S. having just read Rob's reply (he beat me to it) it would seem to be a bit random as to where the switches went !

Edited by Lebro
Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, RobH said:

My post 60000 TR3A has the rheostat in the middle, as Bob says.    

So does mine as it happens, but as I bought a second hand panel I just assumed I had the wrong panel. However the centre hole was shaped to stop a rotary switch turning, ie; D shaped which I assumed might have been for the 2 speed wiper switch which was also Rotary, so used this for the panel switch.

2 pics in Bill P`s book, one of a 3a on page 57 shows the panel rheostat at the top, but another of a 3b on page 52 appears to show it in the centre, so I guess either is right, but I  still worry about the heat aspect and would not use mine for long turned fully dimmed.

Ralph.

Link to post
Share on other sites
19 minutes ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

, but I  still worry about the heat aspect and would not use mine for long turned fully dimmed.

Ralph.

In practice you would be very unlikely to be dimming them at all as theyre not that bright to start with also not many people do long enough night drives to want the facility.

Stuart.

Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, RobH said:

No problem doing that. The lights are not exactly bright even when full on. 

I was thinking that there was a possibility that the rheostat, even when full on, lowered the voltage/current to the dash lights to protect the wiring.  That doesn't seem to be the case based on your responses.

I will install the old wiper switch for now.

Thank you all. 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Lebro said:

1857587700_Centredashpanel.jpg.b841d605feb52a41bf9e15520c4fc276.jpg  All the holes are "D" shaped to ensure the switches are the right way up (& to stop turning)

Bob.

So they are. Is that top one smaller though? (or just far away?). Remember Father Ted?

Ralph

Link to post
Share on other sites

In my photo above, the top one is the right size (for a panel or 1 speed wiper switch), the one below was the same, but I made it larger so that I could fit a two position pull switch (same as the lighting one) where the 1st position turned on the wipers, & the 2nd position operated the electric screen wash.

Bob.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Question:  I have a TR4 temp gauge that is going to have to wait until next year to be replaced with proper TR3 gauge.  Not knowing that at the time of dismantling I neglected to document how it was wired.  There is a blue wire that comes from the thermostat housing that was feeding the signal for the gauge.

 

I figured it out. :D

Edited by David Owen
Link to post
Share on other sites

David.

Wire from the sender (in the thermostat housing) connects direct to either of the terminals on the gauge (does not matter which), other terminal on gauge goes to the stabilised voltage terminal on the instrument voltage stabiliser. The case of this must be earthed, the other terminal on the stabiliser connects to an ignition  switched supply. The gauge does not need an earth to work, but will need one for it's internal lamp to work.

Bob

Edited by Lebro
Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Lebro said:

David.

Wire from the sender (in the thermostat housing) connects direct to either of the terminals on the gauge (does not matter which), other terminal on gauge goes to the stabilised voltage terminal on the instrument voltage stabiliser. The case of this must be earthed, the other terminal on the stabiliser connects to an ignition  switched supply. The gauge does not need an earth to work, but will need one for it's internal lamp to work.

Bob

 

Hmmm.  I connected the sender to battery ground and the gauge went to full.  I removed it and it went back to zero.

I checked the continuity of the sender wire multiple times.

I disconnected the sender and grounded it through my meter and watched the resistance drop as the engine warmed up.

The voltage regulator is grounded.  It is driven from the battery via the fuse box. 

The voltage regulator is putting out 9.97 volts.

The resistance across the gauge when disconnected is 62ohms.

And it still won't register.  So I am obviously missing something.

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
39 minutes ago, David Owen said:

 

Hmmm.  I connected the sender to battery ground and the gauge went to full.  I removed it and it went back to zero.

I checked the continuity of the sender wire multiple times.

I disconnected the sender and grounded it through my meter and watched the resistance drop as the engine warmed up.

The voltage regulator is grounded.  It is driven from the battery via the fuse box. 

The voltage regulator is putting out 9.97 volts.

The resistance across the gauge when disconnected is 62ohms.

And it still won't register.  So I am obviously missing something.

 

 

David, from what you have said it would seem everything is working as it should.

You are supplying the gauge with 10v as required.

You know the gauge is working because it registered when you shorted the sender to earth.

You have continuity through the wires

The sender is working because you have seen the resistance drop as the temperature went up.

I don`t know if the 62 ohms across the gauge is correct, but I bet Bob will know.

Only thing that comes to mind, is there contact between the sender and the thermostat housing, there has to be an electrical contact and something like ptfe tape on the sender could insulate it from making an electrical connection.

Ralph.

Link to post
Share on other sites
37 minutes ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

David, from what you have said it would seem everything is working as it should.

You are supplying the gauge with 10v as required.

You know the gauge is working because it registered when you shorted the sender to earth.

You have continuity through the wires

The sender is working because you have seen the resistance drop as the temperature went up.

I don`t know if the 62 ohms across the gauge is correct, but I bet Bob will know.

Only thing that comes to mind, is there contact between the sender and the thermostat housing, there has to be an electrical contact and something like ptfe tape on the sender could insulate it from making an electrical connection.

Ralph.

 

 

Thanks Ralph.  The sender hasn't been removed and it was functional before I started working on the car. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, David Owen said:

 

 

Thanks Ralph.  The sender hasn't been removed and it was functional before I started working on the car. 

Do a continuity check between the sender body and earth.

Have you had the thermostat housing off, just wondering if that has continuity too. As the gasket effectively insulates it it needs a good connection under the bolt heads to earth it to the rest of the engine.

Other than that I can`t understand why it would not work.

Ralph

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

49 minutes ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

The sender hasn't been removed and it was functional before I started working on the car. 

Either the sender wire is broken, the sender isn't earthed or the sender is high-resistance.

I don't know where you did the earthing check David, but if you do it by removing the wire from the sender and touching it to one of the cylinder head nuts, you should get full deflection on the meter. That will show whether the wire is OK.

Next touch it to the body of the sender. Again there should be full deflection. That will prove the sender is earthed.  If it is, there is something wrong with the sender itself. 

 

You say you measured 62 Ohms 'across the gauge'.   Sorry to be thick but do you mean the sender or the internal resistance of the meter itself?

The sender should be a GRT104

1714360521_smithstempsensorsohms.png.a304fdcbd1f8cfb314f1ab392321a932.png

Link to post
Share on other sites

Extract from a PM sent to David when I had the gauge over here for re-furb. It cleaned up nicely, & worked on my bench using fixed resistances.

The temperature gauge you sent was from a TR4, is that the one you intend to use, & if so you would need the sender, voltage stabiliser, & wiring to go with it. I don't have the sender to calibrate it against, so will use the resistance settings from the book.

It's a shame I did not have the sender as well.

Bob.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, Lebro said:

Extract from a PM sent to David when I had the gauge over here for re-furb. It cleaned up nicely, & worked on my bench using fixed resistances.

The temperature gauge you sent was from a TR4, is that the one you intend to use, & if so you would need the sender, voltage stabiliser, & wiring to go with it. I don't have the sender to calibrate it against, so will use the resistance settings from the book.

It's a shame I did not have the sender as well.

Bob.

 

 

It is!!!  I might just ship the car over.  :lol:

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.