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New 1962, whoops, 1960 TR3 A Owner


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45 minutes ago, Hamish said:

Is that part (14, 15) fitted to stop the screen frame flexing ?

 

Stops the screen bashing and rattling against the mirror stem, and to some extent, flexing of the frames/glass under wind pressure when driving.

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Plus 1 on David Tushingham Cheftush. nice guy who's has done some restorations of seriously decayed TR's. In Ontario and knows a lot about the cars, can put you onto "Yank" terminology and also s

David, if you have registered and can log on to the members only part of the site you can access workshop manuals etc from there and should be able to find a wiring diagram. The horn button simply ear

Hi David, Nice car, pretty sure that there must be more TR owners in your area. Enjoy the TR! Yves

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I have some of these that came in a kit I bought.  Are they OK to use to pull the power for the voltmeter off of the ammeter?  I was also thinking of using one to pull the power for the grounded bulb socket that illuminates the speedometer off of the line that powers the rest of the dash lights.

 

Splicer.jpg.609cf8c2014d3a25b46790fe00c58e95.jpg

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If you mean that nasty insulation-displacement thing at the top - they're quick, simple and cr*p David.  Far better to use a proper connection.  

It would probably work OK for a while........at the expense of damaging the cable you fix it to. 

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4 minutes ago, RobH said:

If you mean that nasty insulation-displacement thing at the top - they're quick, simple and cr*p David.  Far better to use a proper connection.  

It would probably work OK for a while........at the expense of damaging the cable you fix it to. 

 

 

Thanks Rob.  I'm glad I asked.  It didn't seem the right thing to do to cut into a heavy gauge wire.

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Any way you don't want to "pull the power from the ammeter" because the ammeter is always live. You need to take the power from the ignition switch.

Bob.

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2 hours ago, Lebro said:

Any way you don't want to "pull the power from the ammeter" because the ammeter is always live. You need to take the power from the ignition switch.

Bob.

 

Thank you.

Edited by David Owen
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Is this two wires to a single spade terminal David?  the easy way is with a piggy-back adaptor to double-up the tang and then use a normal terminal on each wire:

 

piggyback.jpg.797975bcd0e5aaa3adcafbef2b85d48e.jpg

You can also get female spade terminals which have an extra male tang on the side to do the same thing.

Or - If you are confident you will not need to separate the two wires in the future -  just fit them together in the same single connector.    

Edited by RobH
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45 minutes ago, RobH said:

Is this two wires to a single spade terminal David?  the easy way is with a piggy-back adaptor to double-up the tang and then use a normal terminal on each wire:

 

piggyback.jpg.797975bcd0e5aaa3adcafbef2b85d48e.jpg

You can also get female spade terminals which have an extra male tang on the side to do the same thing.

Or - If you are confident you will not need to separate the two wires in the future -  just fit them together in the same single connector.    

The answer is yes to your first question.  I like that piggy back adaptor.  I hadn't seen one of those before.

Thanks Rob.

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2 hours ago, R.M. said:

why not weld a hinge at the top so the whole tunnel hinges back plus add a pair of smooth operating air rams, that would be the cherry on top.

  I thought about something like that but the electric pulley system to lift it and the lithium battery to power it required the removal of the passenger seat and I actually like hanging out with my wife.

Edited by David Owen
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4 hours ago, RobH said:

Well sticking with the same company, Penrite GB40 can be recommended. 

So going through the manual I need 0.8 litres of GB40.  How much Semi Fluid Grease do I need?  I don't see that anywhere in the service manual.  Please and thank you.

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