New 1962, whoops, 1960 TR3 A Owner

[David Owen]

7 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

What? you`re buying another!

 

 

After investing this much time and energy into beginnning to learn a completely new skill set it would be foolish not to utilize the knowledge I have acquired and go to the next level.  Besides, despite the self-inflicted set backs, I am enjoying myself.

I have been looking for a while.  But Covid is in the way of any inspection I would want to carry out now I know some of the things to look for.

I also need to be able to store the existing car over the winter so the space is free in the garage.  My wife wants her parking spot back because she is thinking of going electric  So it needs to be at a point where it only needs a months (part-time) work a year.

We will see what happens.

 

 

[David Owen]

Question:  Is there anything that has a Dzus (or similar that could be operated by the t-key) head but operates like the catches on the spare wheel cover?

I am just making the cover for the access point to the gearbox dipstick and thought this would be a much easier route.

Edited April 2, 2021 by David Owen

[David Owen]

Question:  answered by myself

Edited April 2, 2021 by David Owen

[David Owen]

Can anyone recommend the best side entry, solid core wires for a TR3A please and thank you?

[RobH]

All solid-core HT cable is much the same David.  I use the striped stuff from Moss and find it perfectly OK. 

[David Owen]

14 hours ago, RobH said:

All solid-core HT cable is much the same David.  I use the striped stuff from Moss and find it perfectly OK. 

 

 

Thanks Rob.  Is this the kit you are talking about?

 

https://mossmotors.com/ignition-wire-set-yellow-w-black-stripe-bumblebee-w-caps?assoc=41595

[RobH]

That's the wire OK but I didn't buy it as a kit. You can buy it by the metre as I already had the caps for the sparkplugs. 

[David Owen]

44 minutes ago, RobH said:

That's the wire OK but I didn't buy it as a kit. You can buy it by the metre as I already had the caps for the sparkplugs. 

 

 

Thank you.  I'm in the deep end now!

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

41 minutes ago, David Owen said:

 

 

Thank you.  I'm in the deep end now!

Wire. https://mossmotors.com/ignition-wire-lucas-bumblebee?assoc=41597
HT Plug Cap. 60 degree is my favourite. The 90 degree may cause the ht wire to rub on the heater return pipe . https://mossmotors.com/plug-cap-ngk-60-degree-each

[David Owen]

10 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Wire. https://mossmotors.com/ignition-wire-lucas-bumblebee?assoc=41597
HT Plug Cap. 60 degree is my favourite. The 90 degree may cause the ht wire to rub on the heater return pipe . https://mossmotors.com/plug-cap-ngk-60-degree-each

Thanks.  I will measure the existing wires today.

Edited April 3, 2021 by David Owen

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

30 minutes ago, David Owen said:

Thanks.  I will measure the existing wires today.

You need to work out how the lead from the coil to the distributor cap is connected and get the correct end terminations.   Are you keeping the coil attached to the block or relocating it to the inner wing?   That lead will change length!

Peter W

[David Owen]

1 hour ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

You need to work out how the lead from the coil to the distributor cap is connected and get the correct end terminations.   Are you keeping the coil attached to the block or relocating it to the inner wing?   That lead will change length!

Peter W

I will leave it attached to the block.  I avoid drilling holes in the body as much as I can..

[David Owen]

Doh

Edited April 3, 2021 by David Owen

[David Owen]

Reassembly query:  The car didn't have demister nozzles when I bought it.  Does the dash get mounted first and then the demister nozzles are bolted into place or the reverse?

Edited April 4, 2021 by David Owen

[Ralph Whitaker]

3 hours ago, David Owen said:

Reassembly query:  The car didn't have demister nozzles when I bought it.  Does the dash get mounted first and then the demister nozzles are bolted into place or the reverse?

I think you could do it either way David, I did mine after the dash, but before instruments and glove box so I had some access, but I suspect they are easier done before the dash goes in. If I remember right the wiper rack and tubes were more of an issue, so I suspect the correct order would be wiper rack, demisters, dash.

Ralph

[David Owen]

13 minutes ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

I think you could do it either way David, I did mine after the dash, but before instruments and glove box so I had some access, but I suspect they are easier done before the dash goes in. If I remember right the wiper rack and tubes were more of an issue, so I suspect the correct order would be wiper rack, demisters, dash.

Ralph

 

 

Thanks Ralph, that is what I have done so far but I haven't put the dash in just yet.

The response is much appreciated.

Edited April 4, 2021 by David Owen

[David Owen]

Straight from Le Brocq Custom Speed Sports:

 

THANKS BOB!!!!!

 

[Hamish]

A simple thing of beauty 

well done Bob. 

[Charlie D]

David,

I have a feeling that the driver’s side demister uses the same studs to fit as the bracket that holds the steering column in place. This means that you need to pull the steering column bracket down a bit in order to fit the demister duct, and then push the bracket back on the studs. With the dash in place it gets more difficult.

It’s been a while though since I did it and I may be wrong.

(I'm now wondering if the demister goes on after the steering baracket...)

 

Charlie

[David Owen]

3 hours ago, Charlie D said:

David,

I have a feeling that the driver’s side demister uses the same studs to fit as the bracket that holds the steering column in place. This means that you need to pull the steering column bracket down a bit in order to fit the demister duct, and then push the bracket back on the studs. With the dash in place it gets more difficult.

It’s been a while though since I did it and I may be wrong.

(I'm now wondering if the demister goes on after the steering baracket...)

 

Charlie

 

Thanks Charlie.

[Charlie D]

David,

 

Doubting myself I went to seek further confirmation.

This shows the order of things.

(Note the confusion about how the wiper rack should fit.)

https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/tr2-and-tr3-forum.6/tr3-windshield-demister-mounting.1712912/

 

 

Charlie

 

 

 

 

Edited April 7, 2021 by Charlie D

[David Owen]

Excellent.  Thanks.

[David Owen]

So here we go.......

Please remember I have never ever worked on anything like this before.  I am guessing that the positive wire presses into the clip at the back and the bulb is grounded through the copper tab that protrudes from under the copper bulb socket.  4 sockets in series for the dash and tach and two bulbs in series for the instrument cluster.

.

 

 

[Lebro]

Hard to see from that photo, but the 2 holders for the small instruments have only one connection, the earth gets made automatically as you push it into the steel cylinders (part of inner dash). The 2 holders for the warning lights have two connections each, For flasher warning 1 goes to the flasher unit, & the other goes to earth. For the ignition warning light one goes to switched ignition supply (white wire) the other goes to the voltage regulator "D" terminal, or if you have an alternator fitted, it goes to the field terminal on that.  The five holders for the two big gauges are different again, 4 of them are for illuminating the gauges & have a single wire connecting to the panel light switch, along with the single wires from the small gauges holders. the 5th one is main beam warning & this wire goes to the blue / white wire to main beam.  These 5 all get earthed as you push them in.

Bob

[David Owen]

15 hours ago, Lebro said:

Hard to see from that photo, but the 2 holders for the small instruments have only one connection, the earth gets made automatically as you push it into the steel cylinders (part of inner dash). The 2 holders for the warning lights have two connections each, For flasher warning 1 goes to the flasher unit, & the other goes to earth. For the ignition warning light one goes to switched ignition supply (white wire) the other goes to the voltage regulator "D" terminal, or if you have an alternator fitted, it goes to the field terminal on that.  The five holders for the two big gauges are different again, 4 of them are for illuminating the gauges & have a single wire connecting to the panel light switch, along with the single wires from the small gauges holders. the 5th one is main beam warning & this wire goes to the blue / white wire to main beam.  These 5 all get earthed as you push them in.

Bob

 

Thanks Bob that cleared up a couple of things for me.  What I was really interested in is this connector.  Does the wire get pushed down into the "fork" to make a connection or something else?