BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 5, 2021 Report Share Posted January 5, 2021 34 minutes ago, Ralph Whitaker said: Is the bracket for sale?. Mine was very rusty and had to weld up to put some strength back into it. Alternatively I do have a couple of 3 syncro non overdrive gearbox tops but wasn`t too sure that they would fit. Ralph Here you go. Hanging off my spare TR3 gear lever retaining cap. Ralph I have sent you a pm Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted January 5, 2021 Report Share Posted January 5, 2021 1 hour ago, Ralph Whitaker said: Is the bracket for sale?. Mine was very rusty and had to weld up to put some strength back into it. Alternatively I do have a couple of 3 syncro non overdrive gearbox tops but wasn`t too sure that they would fit. Ralph Ralph - I think I've got some if I understand correctly what you are looking for- I'll have a look if Peter can't help. I can remember one of the selector rods had an extension piece on the back of the rod so it stuck out a lot further than the others which I thought operated the inhibitor switch mounted in the bracket you are talking about, to operate the reversing lights. However I can't remember which selector rod it was but would have thought it was the reverse selector rod as otherwise how would selecting reverse operate the switch? When converting these to TR spec boxes, Pete Cox would just cut off the extension piece so all the selector rods were of an equal length when in neutral. Let me know if you want the bracket Cheers Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted January 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2021 Any recommendations on quality electrical connectors? Spade or bullet. I'm a little leery about the packages available on Amazon at a low price. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 6, 2021 Report Share Posted January 6, 2021 (edited) It's not spade or bullet that matters, it's how you terminate them. I go for crimping myself. Go with what matches the rest of the car's wiring, i.e. bullet for wire to wire joints, & spade for wire to fixed object - meters, switches etc. Bob. P.S. You are up early ! Edited January 6, 2021 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 6, 2021 Report Share Posted January 6, 2021 (edited) On 1/5/2021 at 5:51 PM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Edited January 16, 2021 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 6, 2021 Report Share Posted January 6, 2021 18 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Here you go. Hanging off my spare TR3 gear lever retaining cap. Ralph I have sent you a pm Cheers Peter W Are those security headed screws ? Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted January 6, 2021 Report Share Posted January 6, 2021 9 minutes ago, David Owen said: Any recommendations on quality electrical connectors? Spade or bullet. I'm a little leery about the packages available on Amazon at a low price. Yes they are often pretty much cr*p made from very thin metal - its a pit pot-luck. Best to buy them from a car wiring specialist. e.g. https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/category/1 (UK company but there must be equivalents on your side of the pond) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted January 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2021 (edited) 21 minutes ago, Lebro said: It's not spade or bullet that matters, it's how you terminate them. I go for crimping myself. Go with what matches the rest of the car's wiring, i.e. bullet for wire to wire joints, & spade for wire to fixed object - meters, switches etc. Bob. P.S. You are up early ! I have lots to do, on the road today, getting some parts blasted, picking up some paint for the deflector, hopefully picking up the re-cored radiator with the fan now frame mounted, and heading to the custom hose company to get some new hoses for the heater. All curbside pick-up except for the hose co. who are apparently an essential service. It doesn't quite replace a month in Revelstoke but it will do. In terms of the connectors I was asking more about the quality of the connectors. Is there a brand(s) I should be using. Edited January 6, 2021 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted January 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2021 1 minute ago, RobH said: Yes they are often pretty much cr*p made from very thin metal - its a pit pot-luck. Best to buy them from a car wiring specialist. e.g. https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/category/1 (UK company but there must be equivalents on your side of the pond) Thanks Rob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 6, 2021 Report Share Posted January 6, 2021 2 hours ago, Lebro said: Are those security headed screws ? Bob. They were the first screws I grabbed out of the drawer. They are Ex DC10 countersunk ‘tri-wing’ titanium screws. The whole aircraft was covered in them. The triple spur drive depression leaves more metal in the head so they are stronger than conventional phillips’s with 4slots. Easy to fit and torque but horrors to remove, because of the drive angles. Recommend ‘screw-grab’ on the screwdriver tip to increase friction when trying to undo. https://www.lasaero.com/products/article/U04GJ491X cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 6, 2021 Report Share Posted January 6, 2021 (edited) On 1/5/2021 at 2:43 PM, David Owen said: The existing top is 4 synchro so I will go with the 2nd option. Not a lot of choice out there. Thank you very much for your input everyone. When you decide / obtain a new cover, I need to know what size hole is in it (or you get drilled in it) in order that I can match the diameter to the dipstick. I stopped at around 23mm dia. I drilled mine 20mm so if you do the same I will take off another 3mm or so. Bob. Edited January 16, 2021 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted January 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2021 5 hours ago, Lebro said: When you decide / obtain a new cover, I need to know what size hole is in it (or you get drilled in it) in order that I can match the diameter to the dipstick. I stopped at around 23mm dia. I drilled mine 20mm so if you do the same I will take off another 3mm or so. Bob. I will let you know. It will take a couple of weeks to get here. Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted January 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2021 Thanks Peter I'm thinking this engine ground strap needs replacing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted January 7, 2021 Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 I think you are right, but it would be easier to leave it alone and put a new one from a bolt on the gearbox bellhousing up to the battery earth on the bulkhead. Not original but I think it gives the electrickery a more direct route. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted January 7, 2021 Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 35 minutes ago, Ralph Whitaker said: I think you are right, but it would be easier to leave it alone and put a new one from a bolt on the gearbox bellhousing up to the battery earth on the bulkhead. Not original but I think it gives the electrickery a more direct route. Ralph I’ve done the same. Belt and braces. You can’t have too many earths. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MilesA Posted January 7, 2021 Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 Another job for the weekend....! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted January 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 Thanks all. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted January 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2021 On 1/7/2021 at 2:44 AM, Ralph Whitaker said: I think you are right, but it would be easier to leave it alone and put a new one from a bolt on the gearbox bellhousing up to the battery earth on the bulkhead. Not original but I think it gives the electrickery a more direct route. Ralph Ok. So my battery ground is attached to the engine block with the smaller wire grounded on the deck below the regulator. From what I see here it should be grounded to the body. If I attach a ground from the battery terminal to the body am I effectively accomplishing the same thing or should I still add the ground to the gearbox housing? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 16, 2021 Report Share Posted January 16, 2021 As long as the engine has a heavy duty earth connection to the battery, & the body has a "medium duty" connection to either the battery or the engine, then you will be fine. As standard the battery to engine connection is via the body, & then the chassis, which in most cases works fine (mine does) but I can see a case for a more direct connection as well. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 16, 2021 Report Share Posted January 16, 2021 On 1/7/2021 at 8:20 AM, Hamish said: I’ve done the same. Belt and braces. You can’t have too many earths. How good is the connection between the earth cable and the battery clamp? I have the same as you and I got a volt drop across the battery to body connection point when cranking the engine. Cleaned it all and reclamped and I now get nearer 1/4 volt drop only. Peter W PS. Where does the law of parallel Resistors sit in the addition of extra earth leads if you have one lead that is high resistance to start off with? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted January 16, 2021 Report Share Posted January 16, 2021 It’s the one that goes into the ground that restricts me. obviously the tyres isolates the whole car so you need a wire to the real earth. But it breaks as soon as I drive anywhere. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted January 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2021 2 hours ago, Lebro said: As long as the engine has a heavy duty earth connection to the battery, & the body has a "medium duty" connection to either the battery or the engine, then you will be fine. As standard the battery to engine connection is via the body, & then the chassis, which in most cases works fine (mine does) but I can see a case for a more direct connection as well. Bob. Thanks. Medium duty is missing so I will put on on. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted January 16, 2021 Report Share Posted January 16, 2021 59 minutes ago, Hamish said: But it breaks as soon as I drive anywhere. Ah Hamish - sounds as though you need one of them newfangled wi-fi earths https://www.wireless-earth.com/collections/vendors?q=Wireless Earth Online Shop ...............either that or tyres with metal spikes. (Before anyone is gullible enough to take the link as actual science - -really it isn't. ) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted January 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2021 (edited) 4 minutes ago, RobH said: Ah Hamish - sounds as though you need one of them newfangled wi-fi earths https://www.wireless-earth.com/collections/vendors?q=Wireless Earth Online Shop ...............either that or tyres with metal spikes. (Before anyone is gullible enough to take the link as actual science - -really it isn't. ) Trying to figure out if anyone is an anagram for David. Edited January 16, 2021 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted January 16, 2021 Report Share Posted January 16, 2021 1 minute ago, David Owen said: Trying to figure out if anyone is an anagram for David. erm D A V I D A N Y O N E No ?!?!? to many and the wrong letters. is that a trick question ? I've been working on it for ages you are pulling my leg aren’t you ?! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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