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Hi All

I've sadly had a bang in my TR4a and whilst it's off the road (needs new bonnet, valence, bumper and grill if anyone can help?), i'm thinking of putting the Overdrive gearbox i have into the car.  So now the questions: Can i just drop the gearbox in without changing Prop and Diff?

  1. Is the Propshaft the same (I have this also)
  2. I assume the Dif is a different set up ( i have this as well)?
  3. I can obviously buy the necessary solenoid, column switch, relays and wiring harness, but have forgotten something?
  4. Is there anything i should do to set or align the OD before or after fitting?
  5. What gearbox oil would you recommend ?
  6. I need to clean and paint the old one, so what is everyone using (Prop, Diff & Gearbox) ?

Many thanks Gordon

PS Not my fault...

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Prop and diff is the same you just need the switches on the box, the solenoid the relay and the column switch. settings are in the workshop manual. as to your bump I would as far as possible repair what you have.

Stuart.

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You could consider a Logic Overdrive set-up, such as that from Revington (possibly others).  Much nicer than the long wand on the steering column.

Overall length is the same as a non-overdrive unit, so just slots into place (ha, ha - just read first the helpful Forum posts about removal/replacement of gearbox!).

I'll leave space here for the arguments about suitable lubricant!

Never painted a gearbox - just clean it to expose bare metal.

Ian Cornish

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Gordon - is your overdrive gearbox a genuine TR A type unit? Or possibly a saloon unit - if the latter then there are various other things you will need to be aware of such as appropriate clutch, speedo drives and output flanges, as an example.

Also, I may be able to help with some of your other front end bits - whereabouts are you? PM me if interested

Cheers Rich 

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Hi Gordon,

sorry to here about the bump, hope that side of things gets well sorted.

If you are going overdrive from scratch as it were, then I would consider mounting the switch in the relevent gearlever as per GT6 etc, much simpler than column if you have to aquire everything, and falls to hand really well for quick changes.

just a thought.

John.

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On 6/10/2020 at 11:00 PM, rcreweread said:

Gordon - is your overdrive gearbox a genuine TR A type unit? Or possibly a saloon unit - if the latter then there are various other things you will need to be aware of such as appropriate clutch, speedo drives and output flanges, as an example.

Also, I may be able to help with some of your other front end bits - whereabouts are you? PM me if interested

Cheers Rich 

Thanks for the reply. The box is from an original TR4a so pretty sure it’s standard. Is there any way of telling? 

talking to repair shop re. Damage but will contact you if I need parts. Thanks for message much appreciated. 

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7 hours ago, John Morrison said:

Hi Gordon,

sorry to here about the bump, hope that side of things gets well sorted.

If you are going overdrive from scratch as it were, then I would consider mounting the switch in the relevent gearlever as per GT6 etc, much simpler than column if you have to aquire everything, and falls to hand really well for quick changes.

just a thought.

John.

Is there a conversion kit for this? I prefer it on the gear stick.

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LNK's is on the gear stick, actually a works Healey mod, which falls to hand (thumb) easier IMHO. However, Moby (our 2500 saloon) has the traditional Triumph gear lever, I know which I prefer......but both work and the traditional solution is easy to find and already engineered 

20190421_171743.jpg

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Your very nice passenger " foot bridge" is worth to mention!

I made the one from my wife of wood, this is a great confidence.

Lots of TR owners don't know about, so in my opinion it is worth an extra post.

Would you please be so kind and show?

Edited by Z320
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In Mike's photo of the dash of his LNK, there is a spring-loaded headlamp flasher switch to top left of the speedo.

A similar switch can be mounted top right of the tacho in order to operate the overdrive logic box - that way, no need to remove a hand from the steering wheel.

On 4VC, I have mounted the spring-loaded overdrive switch on the right of the steering column, where the standard TR4 has its long wand.

Ian Cornish

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4 hours ago, Z320 said:

Your very nice passenger " foot bridge" is worth to mention!

I made the one from my wife of wood, this is a great confidence.

Lots of TR owners don't know about, so in my opinion it is worth an extra post.

Would you please be so kind and show?

Hi Z320

Long and noble tradition of TR passenger foot rests, often also used as tool boxes and spares store. Mine is actually a Lotus Elise S1 footrest,  great for your navigator/ passenger and can be brought forward and tucked under your knees when you want a full stretch out. Found one for sale on ebay for £20, its a perfect fit. Mine shown below

 

20200612_112755_resized.jpg

20200612_112738_resized.jpg

20200612_112720_resized.jpg

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14 hours ago, North London Mike said:

LNK's is on the gear stick, actually a works Healey mod, which falls to hand (thumb) easier IMHO. However, Moby (our 2500 saloon) has the traditional Triumph gear lever, I know which I prefer......but both work and the traditional solution is easy to find and already engineered 

20190421_171743.jpg

 

So Mike, is it just a question of changing the gear lever and re-routing the cables to the new unit?

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5 minutes ago, Jase said:

 

So Mike, is it just a question of changing the gear lever and re-routing the cables to the new unit?

Yes you just need to be careful how you route the wires up the stick to prevent chafing.

Stuart.

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Having owned cars with the O/D on the gearstick (Stag and Spitfires) and the TRs with the O/D on the wheel - the TR wins hands down - you keep your hands where they are until you need to change gear.  Presumably why F1 and others now have flappy paddle gearchanges on the steering wheel rather than mounted where the conventional gearstick was.

If you are keen to move it a Stag or Saloon gearstick can be used although a bt of bending and possibly shortening might be required. They are hollow to allow the wires to be fed up to the gearnob mounted switch, unlike the TR gearsticks which are solid.

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TR3 gear sticks are hollow, I ran a pair of wires up mine before fitting the gearbox cover in case I wanted to use the Stag gear knob which I happened to have.

7 years later I am still happy with the dash mounted switch, & no logic device.

Bob.

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Jase

As Stuart and other have said, careful routing is important, as I've had one failure due to chafing. The gear lever is solid so sleeve the cable to protect it as you route it up to the gear knob. On LNK I used small pipe insulation sleeve, funneled the cable up the break in the insulation, then tightly wrapped with insulation tape, fully protected. Thinker than the normal shaft but neater than just having it looped up the side IMHO

Ps Interesting that TR3 shafts are hollow but 4's are solid, why ?

Screenshot_20200612-163625_Gallery_resized.jpg

Edited by North London Mike
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51 minutes ago, North London Mike said:

Jase

As Stuart and other have said, careful routing is important, as I've had one failure due to chafing. The gear lever is solid so sleeve the cable to protect it as you route it up to the gear knob. On LNK I used small pipe insulation sleeve, funneled the cable up the break in the insulation, then tightly wrapped with insulation tape, fully protected. Thinker than the normal shaft but neater than just having it looped up the side IMHO

Ps Interesting that TR3 shafts are hollow but 4's are solid, why ?

Screenshot_20200612-163625_Gallery_resized.jpg

You could break them plus they were much shorter, when I had the switch on the gear lever I used a modified saloon lever cut and shut onto a 4a lever as they have a drilling running up to allow for the cables.

Stuart.

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23 hours ago, stillp said:

Whereas I prefer the o/d switch on the column! Your hands are supposed to be on the steering wheel whenever possible.

Pete

I moved my TR6 switch from the column and down to a momentary switch on top of the gear knob, together with an overdrive logic unit. I found it difficult to operate the column switch without moving right hand off the wheel. To change gear you have to move your left hand and that's where the switch is to then engage the overdrive, so much easier.

Colin. 

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Fair enough, each to his own. I don't have a problem reaching the o/d stalk while holding the wheel, but I think the stalk has been bent closer to the wheel - there was no o/d switch fitted when I bought the car, the one I have came from a TR being broken for spares in Derby. £2 including the column shroud IIRC!

Who was that TR/MG parts dealer on London Road in Derby?

Pete

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A silly question I know and I am not sure if this has been covered before, but if you use the logic control for the overdrive and want to change lets say from 4 O/D to normal 4, do you just flick the switch again to do this, or do you have to actually change gear to get it to shift from O/D. I intend fitting a J type O/D box in to my TR4A. It currently has a non O/D box in it, and I am weighing up all the options as to how to control the O/D, either logic or standard control, gear stick mounted switch or column mounted. So a bit for me to decide on yet.

When I bought the car it was a bit of a dog and the body work was quite rough so I took car is at Carn Bosavern garage at St Just in Cornwall, to get the bodywork done as I don't have the necessary equipment or skills to do this to a high standard, and the lads there are doing a superb job for me.  It was an American import and I have converted it to R/D drive . Can't wait to get it back so I can get stuck into the mechanical side of things, which I love doing.

floor and sill.JPG

IMG_20200527_140534.jpg

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