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Forgive the stupidity, I should know the answer but I've forgotten.

I'm having intermittent problems with the horn, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.

I suspect an issue with the earthing of the center push.

Should it remain stationary when the wheel turns or move with the steering wheel?

I'm sure one of you, not least my old colleague PAW, will know the answer and chastise me for my stupidity!!

Best

Adam

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The horn push along with the indicator switch remains stationary (assuming your car is standard and that you still have the steering box).

The whole centre section of the hub is attached to a short tube which should be clipped into the long stator tube which in turn is fixed at the lower end by a collet on the steering box. The only bit that revolves with the wheel is the plate inside the hub which carries the trip mechanism to cancel the indicators. That plate is held to the outer hub by three grub screws located behind the wheel.

For your intermittent horn connection it would first be worth checking the bullet connectors in the loom which exits the end of the stator tube at the steering box. 

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As Rob has described the horn push assy remains stationary when the wheel is turned.   If yours is turning it may well be the collet (olive) and nut that grips the stator tube at the bottom of the steering box where the wires come out, is loose.  Two person job to tighten.  One holds the horn push centrally whilst sitting in the car, and the other tightens the nut at the front underneath.   
intermittent working could be simply the horn push assy is not earthing.  That again points to the collet at the bottom, that forms the earth return.   If you remove this nut and collet (Olive) oil may run out.   Refill through the Rubber bunged hole in the lower steering box tube.

Cheers

Peter W

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Thanks Rob & Peter,

What, if anything retains the short shaft on the horn push to the stator tube? Is it just an interference fit. Cant see anything in the catalogue showing a more positive connection

 I have used my favourite tool, no not a Birmingham screwdriver, but WD40, liberally around the horn push and the retaining plate in case its not moving freely.

I will have another go tomorrow to see is the movement is better.

I'm fairly certain that the stator tube is locked solid in the steering box . But I will have another look.

Fortunately, courtesy of Russ at Moss, I have a spare olive and brass nut if required.

Will keep you posted.

Best

Adam

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Basically just a push fit Adam -  one tube fits over the other and there is a slot to prevent rotation if I recall correctly.  It's a long time since I had it apart. 

The joint doesn't look very strong so be a bit careful if you are demounting the hub.

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It is a interference fit. Over time the fit does become a bit loose and on one of mine the horn push moves a centimetre or two. As said previously, the whole lot is held in place by the olive and nut at the front of the steering box where the stator tube protrudes through the steering box. This is also the earth.

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You are in luck I am about to give my brother a TR2 horn push and stator  tube for his TR2 rebuild, so they are on the floor in the garage.

The horn push short tube goes over the stator tube.  The protrusions ( 4 dimples) on the inside of the horn push short tube locate in a slot in the stator tube.  That links the two together which are stopped from rotating by the olive/collet and nut at the bottom of the steering box.

 

 

Cheers

Peter W

 

 

PS   Dimple qty changed from 3  to 4    - must learn my numbers......  Thank you Bob

image.png.d552926308c22f813fc3668eb20dce0a.png

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
Qty change
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What if on the horn push, when you signal left or right, the self-cancelling doesn't work? What could be the cause?

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If it isn't working at all Dave,  it might be worn or broken parts in the indicator mechanism or else the plate which trips it, which ought to rotate with the wheel, might not be clamped properly by the grubscrews.

There are three PDFs here about maintaining the control head (towards the bottom of the page. One has photos of the mechanism):

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B2H2NJt34OffMDVmOTZlZWItYTcyMy00ZDhkLTliOWEtOWU1OWRhNDZhYmRl

 

Edited by RobH
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5 hours ago, RobH said:

There are three PDFs here about maintaining the control head...

Thanks Rob, you get an extra appreciation point from me,  adding to the 355 you have already:)

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On 6/6/2020 at 6:46 PM, Adam Blackaby said:

Thanks Rob & Peter,

What, if anything retains the short shaft on the horn push to the stator tube? Is it just an interference fit. Cant see anything in the catalogue showing a more positive connection

 I have used my favourite tool, no not a Birmingham screwdriver, but WD40, liberally around the horn push and the retaining plate in case its not moving freely.

I will have another go tomorrow to see is the movement is better.

I'm fairly certain that the stator tube is locked solid in the steering box . But I will have another look.

Fortunately, courtesy of Russ at Moss, I have a spare olive and brass nut if required.

Will keep you posted.

Best

Adam

Adam,

Pull the stator tube out and add a couple of small spot welds (file spots down as necessary) as this is what can and does happen when the stator tube and control head tube rotate on each other. 

Cheers, Andrew

IMG_3947.thumb.JPG.96e24b1867b8d8022cd60684b931f3a8.JPG

 

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