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Heater Control knob


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Hi All,

My heater control is not working,  - (one with the picture of the heater matrix on ) so I thought to check the cable is ok, which it appears to be, so I thought I would remove the heater control knob, which I thought was secured by a small screw under the knob...

Alas I can’t see any screw, I didn’t want to tug at the knob and risk the inevitable.

Does the knob just pull off, or am I missing at essential step

Many Thanks

Regards

Doyley

 

 

 

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Hi Doyle’s, 

at the back of the knob is a small hole that locates a spring loaded pin on the cable spindle. You need to push the pin fully in and pull at the same time - sometimes they are very stuck ! I attach a photo of an example but hopefully you get the principle. All the knobs are the same. 
Ian

DEB8A9DD-41B4-4269-BAB4-94CD9E585434.jpeg

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HI Doyley,

The problem I had was with the heater control valve, which was full of crud. There are various solutions to this as you will find on the Forum.  I simply just bought a repacement from Rimmers or Moss (can't remember which, sorry) but it was the better OE quality valve.

Regards,

Denis

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  • 1 month later...

So should the heater valves, without stating the obvious, fully shut and totally cut off hot water to the heater matrix?  The one on my TR is new but unbelievably stiff to the point that it won't shut fully closed unless pushed shut by hand!  Are you saying that Rimmer or Moss valves better, smoother and more functional?

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36 minutes ago, Farley Green said:

So should the heater valves, without stating the obvious, fully shut and totally cut off hot water to the heater matrix?  The one on my TR is new but unbelievably stiff to the point that it won't shut fully closed unless pushed shut by hand!  Are you saying that Rimmer or Moss valves better, smoother and more functional?

The standard valve Valve is universally acclaimed as rubbish. There is a beauty in the USA that is a direct(ish)  fit   made by Everco and works a treat.

Everco

can be obtained via Amazon

Roger 

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