Highcliffe Posted June 5, 2020 Report Share Posted June 5, 2020 Hi, I am a new owner of a TR4A and am finding my way around it. Would someone please tell me where the water would drain to if the Scuttle Vent Lid is left open and water gets in? Should it drain to the exterior somewhere or will it come into the cockpit? Many thanks David F Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BRINDUS44 Posted June 6, 2020 Report Share Posted June 6, 2020 Hi David, There is a plenum section beneath the scuttle that runs the full width of the car behind the dash board ( the wiper mechanism is inside it) Any water getting inside drains to the outer lower corners and then exits the car via a short rubber hose just in front of the A post, under the front wing. The attached picture shows it. If you search on the forum you will find many tales of corrosion caused by this arrangement! Regards Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Highcliffe Posted June 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2020 Hi Ian, Thank you very much for the photo and information. I shall search to find the posts. it is all learning for me at present! All the best David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted June 6, 2020 Report Share Posted June 6, 2020 David, Hello and Welcome. Do not be tempted to run with the vent closed, you won't have a lot of heater, and if you are out in wet weather then the car will mist up inside dangerously. If you are getting water inside the car via the plenum, then you have the over narrow tubes blocked, in the very corners with leaves etc, or corrosion, ask here for remedies. John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted June 6, 2020 Report Share Posted June 6, 2020 (edited) Revington solution with my added twist.It exits out of the vertical floor panel at least a couple of inches and NOT into the sill.This works for me and that is all that counts in my book. Edited June 7, 2020 by harrytr5 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted June 6, 2020 Report Share Posted June 6, 2020 I presume it doesn't just fill up the sill Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 6, 2020 Report Share Posted June 6, 2020 Hi Harry, I like the idea of it going straight down and out. So much simpler than going forwards. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Highcliffe Posted June 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2020 Thank you all. I need to poke around to check that the tube is clear of blockages (assuming the tube is actually there of course - I am finding this to be a voyage of discovery as I check into things) Would a length of stiffish wire inserted via the scuttle lid do the job? I am guessing that there will be leaves etc that will need to be cleared from the plenum before I get to the tube opening David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 6, 2020 Report Share Posted June 6, 2020 58 minutes ago, RogerH said: Hi Harry, I like the idea of it going straight down and out. So much simpler than going forwards. Roger I dont, do it properly first as last Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 6, 2020 Report Share Posted June 6, 2020 9 minutes ago, Highcliffe said: Thank you all. I need to poke around to check that the tube is clear of blockages (assuming the tube is actually there of course - I am finding this to be a voyage of discovery as I check into things) Would a length of stiffish wire inserted via the scuttle lid do the job? I am guessing that there will be leaves etc that will need to be cleared from the plenum before I get to the tube opening David No what you need to do first is check that the tubes are in place first of all and not rotted out, so look up under the dash at the corner ends below the air vents and see the rubber tubes. Often that area is pretty rotten. Poking wire in the vent wont help and you need to be careful you dont disturb the washer pipes, one way to clear is open the vent flap and then open the dash vents and blow back through with an air line or tape a piece of 1" tube in the end of your vacuum tube and then insert that down the plenum from the vent flap. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Highcliffe Posted June 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2020 Thank you Stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase Posted June 6, 2020 Report Share Posted June 6, 2020 I seem to have tubes protruding from each front wheel arch. Like you I am a recent new owner and trying to get used to the car Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisR-4A Posted June 7, 2020 Report Share Posted June 7, 2020 Hi David, if you check all above and still get water in footwell it could be the seals between the plenum and the air vent at rear of dash, this lines up closely with the drivers right knee. Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted June 7, 2020 Report Share Posted June 7, 2020 David Here are some photos which might make things a bit clearer - often the bottom rounded corners at each end by the air vent outlets are eaten away and full of holes, so they leak like a sieve. My rubber drain hoses go straight down though the top of the sill, via a grommet and exit through an elongated hole in the lower drop down bit of the floor lower sill, so are totally invisible - I also did a lot of wind tunnel testing to get just the right length sticking out of the inner sill to take advantage of maximum low pressure areas in the vicinity so that there is a vacuum effect to suck all the water and debris out - can't show you a picture as it's a closely guarded secret! Cheers Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Salisbury Posted June 7, 2020 Report Share Posted June 7, 2020 Hi Rich, No wind tunnel testing but snap on the straight tube idea, easy mod while the rebuild was going on. Cheers Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted June 7, 2020 Report Share Posted June 7, 2020 If you fit wheel arch liners you can direct the pipe through them and away clear of the sill. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Highcliffe Posted June 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2020 Thank you all for the helpful guidance and advice. I shall be checking tomorrow David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
twostrokekid Posted June 7, 2020 Report Share Posted June 7, 2020 On 6/6/2020 at 8:59 AM, Lebro said: I presume it doesn't just fill up the sill Bob. When I did my first rebuild back in 1979 I found both sill closing panels (the vertical bit that forms part of the floor panel) had rotted away. I replaced the sills with new ones but simply cut the closing vertical bits off the floors and never reinstated them. I can get under the car and paint the insides of the sills with Hammerite and Waxoyl, they're out of sight and not structural. There is nothing to trap any road muck and they don't corrode any more. I added the scuttle drain extension by lengthening the drain hose down through the sill in the enclosed box section in front of the 'A' post. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BG Dave Posted January 30, 2022 Report Share Posted January 30, 2022 On 6/6/2020 at 3:47 AM, harrytr5 said: Revington solution with my added twist.It exits out of the vertical floor panel at least a couple of inches and NOT into the sill.This works for me and that is all that counts in my book. HarryTR5, I wonder if I could ask a followup question regarding your drainage system, which looks very nice. I currently have the front fenders (wings) off our TR4 and one of the things I'm trying to do is improve the drainage. I see you have made some kind of a fitting to capture water flowing through the hole in the side of the rain gutter at the top of the fender. I would like to do the same if possible. How did you construct this fitting? Or, if it is a manufactured product, what is it and where can it be obtained? Secondly, how did you attach the fitting to the side of the inner fender? Finally, it appears that your fitting would interfere with the mounting flange at the top of the wing. Did you have to notch the flange for clearance? Thanks for your help. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted January 30, 2022 Report Share Posted January 30, 2022 1 hour ago, BG Dave said: Secondly, how did you attach the fitting to the side of the inner fender? Heres an extract from one of the Devon Group "in The Garage" newsletters covering the drains: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted January 30, 2022 Report Share Posted January 30, 2022 Hi Dave, I bought the kit from Revington TR and you could make it up yourself. A flat steel plate with a tube brazed at a angle for the top fixing.Re-enforced clear plastic hose with a y joiner plus some clips. I like to drill a hole in the top of the cil and exit out of the vertical panel attached to the floor pan so the rain water has a clear route to escape. On the TR6 it is slightly different and I space the flat plate out by 4-5mm in alloy with a groove filed out to suit the hole exit, then the same process. It has to be spaced out to clear the TR6 wing construction. I do it this way as I do not know any better so there may be a better way. It works for me. Regards Harry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BG Dave Posted January 31, 2022 Report Share Posted January 31, 2022 Andrew and Harry, thanks very much to both of you for the excellent explanations. I will check out Revington's offering, and simultaneously have a look in my local big-box hardware store to see if I can come up with the needed bits to do it myself. So do you in fact have to notch the top-of-wing flange to provide clearance for the plumbing reducer, as it appears would be necessary, or does it just barely clear due to the steep angle of the reducer? Thanks again, Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted January 31, 2022 Report Share Posted January 31, 2022 Dave, Not on the TR6 as I spaced out the plate and if I can remember not on the TR5 either. It will become obvious when you remove wing and have a good look at it. Regards Harry TR5N Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BG Dave Posted January 31, 2022 Report Share Posted January 31, 2022 OK, thanks very much for your help Harry. I'll dig into it and see how it all fits together. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BG Dave Posted March 18, 2022 Report Share Posted March 18, 2022 Just thought I'd post an update. I did pretty much what Drewmotty showed in the extract from the Devon Group article. One difference was that I used JB Weld to attach the copper fitting to the plate, and the plate to the car. Hope it holds. I did have to create a bit of clearance for the copper fitting on the fender/wing flanges, otherwise they would have made contact with each other. I did it by grinding a small notch in the flange. After the fact, I realized that I might have done it by making a small bend in the flange to clear the spout. Thanks all for the good information. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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