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  • 2 weeks later...

I was originally planning on dipping the shell but after loads of thought and forum advice I went for blasting which left me with a bit of a problem in that the insides of the sills had no paint on the back panels or along the bottom seams. So I came up with this to flood the seams with Bonda Rust which I did the same on the door bottoms. Wax will cover the rest once painted as I've drilled holes along the back face.  

Pumped 100ml/side in and tipped her up for a few minutes and you could see in places where the paint ran through.

Andy

Shell 6.jpg

Shell 7.jpg

Shell 9.jpg

Edited by PodOne
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  • 2 weeks later...

Just been checking and getting the sill contours to match the wing bottoms. The A posts are good but I've lost the B posts due to the body drooping off the chassis close when I jack the rear so I'm happy I can get them back.

One thing I thought I'd pass on is replicating the hinge positions once removed from the shell. I took mine off before  blasting but while the tub was on the chassis, the panels where all aligned and I drilled a couple of reference holes which has made setting everything back up much easier.

Andy

  

Gaps 2.jpg

Gaps 1.jpg

Hinge tip 2.jpg

Hinges Tip.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

An idea taken from Cheftush on YouTube I had a “power hour”  in the garage. 
 

I have bought a bargain used cast aluminium sump. I have tested the porosity with water and it didn’t leak after a week sat there. 
 

so decided to make a magnetic  sump plug. 
 

couple of magnets from eBay a shallow drilling and some 2 part epoxy and it’s job done. Ideally it could be longer but it should do the job.
 

2x 6mm dia x 20mm long Alnico Round Bar / Rod Magnets - 0.411kg Pull (1 Set)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323118707995
 

 

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Edited by Hamish
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Is the sump standard depth or short?

If short depth you will need the shortened oil pump base.

http://www.racetorations.co.uk/triumph-c56/tr3-c4/tr3-oil-system-c648/oil-pumps-c653/racetorations-alloy-oil-pump-cap-p21

PM me if you need one as I have a spare on the shelf.

Peter W

image.png.2fe1506b52cef0283dd9f84580d034d1.png

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Oooo now you are asking a question that has me thinking. 
 

it looks like a larger capacity Bastuck version. 

but I thought it would be a direct replacement and I’d top up the oil on the standard dipstick to ensure the oil reached the  pump / strainer. 

I’ll have to measure the tin one fitted versus the ally one

thank you for the heads up though Peter,  I will report back.

H

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 7/23/2020 at 7:04 PM, PodOne said:

Been back on the panels last few times leading the lower seams and repairs, bear metaling the panels with the DA and Bonda rusting them. Glad I bought a decent mask as the filters were red and I looked like the red man of Borneo! 

Going to buy some fresh filters before I do the bonnet which needs stripping. Can't make my mind up to do the boot as its been painted with 2K epoxy and looks solid. Anyway  heres a few pics.

 

Painting 12.jpg

Great idea with the hinge holes Andy.

You did a great job bare metalling, I've a ton of panels to do the same with. You mentioned using a DA sander, was that for everything or did you resort to hand sanding for the more awkward corners?

 

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11 hours ago, Richard Baines said:

Great idea with the hinge holes Andy.

You did a great job bare metalling, I've a ton of panels to do the same with. You mentioned using a DA sander, was that for everything or did you resort to hand sanding for the more awkward corners?

 

Hi Richard

Thanks hinge hole idea has saved me loads of time lining things back up as I lost count of how many times they have been on and off!

I had all the edges of the panels gently blasted which saved a lot of work and got into the nooks and crannies, paint striper on the flat areas followed by a good wash and then finished with a DA, then leaded want needed doing. The door seams I flooded them with Bonda Rust from the inside until I saw it oozing through the seams externally wiped it off allowed to dry then sprayed them.

If you go the blasting route just make sure you find a guy who is use to blasting car bodies or the panels will likely become rippled.

Enjoy!

Andy

  

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  • 2 months later...

The eagle has landed back on the chassis which now has the engine and box installed for a final gapping check before sending for paint (Anyone recommend someone good around Wakefield/Leeds?). The chassis seems solid with no movement with just an extra 2mm spacer needed on the drivers rear to close up the rear door gap otherwise all the many hours of work, advice from you all has paid off!

So thanks so far and here's a few shots of what your help has produced.

Apologies as much as I try the lat two pictures won't upload the correct way up IT never works when you need it:angry:

IMG_1176.jpeg

IMG_1175.jpeg

IMG_1157.jpeg

Edited by PodOne
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2 hours ago, Ian Vincent said:

IMG_1157.jpeg.f464277269c0eb1b3d2775a7e3284f3f.jpeg

Cheers Ian ! How have managed it?

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I'm on  Mac.  I saved the upside down image to my desktop.  Opened it in preview then flipped it using the 'tools' in preview and saved it in the flipped form before re-loading it back onto the forum.

Rgds Ian

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1 hour ago, Ian Vincent said:

I'm on  Mac.  I saved the upside down image to my desktop.  Opened it in preview then flipped it using the 'tools' in preview and saved it in the flipped form before re-loading it back onto the forum.

Rgds Ian

Mac as well  I'll have to remember your tip Ian.

Thanks Andy

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for a change the garage had some attention 

re-plastered the ceiling, paint walls and floor, new light fitted !!!!!! jobs good-un :D

 

 

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Edited by Clarkey
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bigger job than doing the car !!!

 

looks tidy now tho.

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