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18 minutes ago, iain said:

Wow you now have very high gearing. Should make it very accelerative,  If a bit busy on motorways .....but lots of fun from 70- 90 if it’s legal!

Iain

Even more if I use my 185/55 x15 competition tyres !

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On 6/12/2020 at 8:00 PM, Hamish said:

Miles

a man of your caliber should have no problems with the out and in of the Speedo.

cable off first then the 2 thumb knurled nuts on the back of the angled bracket (note the way it sits on a stand off casting at the top!!) one knurled nut had an earth attachment. Then pull the Speedo and remove the 2 Speedo illumination bulbs and the main beam warning light.

Fitting is the reverse of removal but a little trickier to get the Bracket fitting nicely due to all the wires and access is a little tight due to the  steering column brackets.

the trick on the calibration measurements is to use masking or duck tape to measure circumference of the tyre. Mine ended up as 1309 rather than the 1180.
 

well worth the trouble for an accurate speed on the road.

and can’t recommend JDO Instruments highly enough.

 

 

Thanks Hamish

It looked like the steering column bracket needed removing when I was going to remove the speedo in the past. More yoga for the hands and finger perhaps!

Miles 

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I find it easier to remove the rev counter first, which is not to difficult, then you can put your hand through the hole to get to the back of the speedo.

Bob.

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On 12 June 2020 at 8:23 PM, Hamish said:

Even more if I use my 185/55 x15 competition tyres !

Which first gear are you using?  Found the standard TR 3.14:1 too short, too much like the old 3 synchro box first    Good for stump pulling but not whizzing off the line.

Brother used the long legged Dolomite Sprint one initially. (2.99:1)   When running 4.1 axle.

 

  Now have a Close ratio gearbox (STN53 ex Dol Sprint with 2.19 first gear).  Ultimately to be Four gears and a J type overdrive  top giving neatly spaced 5 speed.

All dreams at present as the car is missing its bodywork!

cheers 

Peter W

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19 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Which first gear are you using?  Found the standard TR 3.14:1 too short, too much like the old 3 synchro box first    Good for stump pulling but not whizzing off the line.

Brother used the long legged Dolomite Sprint one initially. (2.99:1)   When running 4.1 axle.

 

  Now have a Close ratio gearbox (STN53 ex Dol Sprint with 2.19 first gear).  Ultimately to be Four gears and a J type overdrive  top giving neatly spaced 5 speed.

All dreams at present as the car is missing its bodywork!

cheers 

Peter W

Peter 

its an early tr6 box so may be 3.14 ?

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On 6/5/2020 at 10:01 PM, PodOne said:

Well after nearly two years of welding and fitting the doors etc to get the panel gaps right the shell has finally gone for blasting and a coat of epoxy. Perhaps some would say the wrong way round but there was no strength in the sills and I wanted to use the chassis as a jig to keep everything aligned. Fingers crossed there is no surprises!

Some pics before and I pop some after ones up once she's back.

Just need to prep all the panels now.

Andy 

Blasting 1.jpg

Blasting 2.jpg

Blasting 3.jpg

Blasting 6.jpg

Blasting 4.jpg

As promised an after pic after blasting and paint; not Bonda rust they had never heard of it! Instead they used a two stage bare metal primer with rust inhibitors which they use on car bodies and commercial chassis/bodies.

Overall very pleased with it just a few small patches where the old seam sealer has held on. Panels in the process of being stripped before I paint them with Bonda Rust.

Looks like progress! 

Andy

blasted painted shell.jpg

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Having bought my TR6 back in January I finally got round to changing the engine oil this morning. Not a difficult job in itself, but like everything on the car each job involves at least one problem to resolve. In this particular case it was a completely mangled sump plug.

So I invested £12.99 in a Erbauer Bolt & Nut Remover Set. Well worth the money and made very short work of the plug. I had already purchased a replacement plug with magnetic insert, so that is another little improvement.

Next challenge is to remove the fuel tank and clean it out. At the moment it is filling the fuel filter with crud. Hopefully I will also find and fix the source of the petrol smell in the boot.

But unfortunately the tank is nearly full. So before I do any more work I am going to have to use the car and empty the tank. Life's a bitch... :lol:

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Finally got my TR3 out of the garage today after an in situ engine rebuild, new pistons, liners, big end shells, valves, guides etc. Hopefully it will burn and leak less oil, the guides and valves were very badly worn so the head went off to Peter Burgess in Alfreton who did a great job. I started the rebuild back in late February, so took my time and tried to be careful as I have never rebuilt a wet liner engine before and there was no rush to get it back on the road during lockdown. I lost count of the number of times the liners and seals went in and out the block. I took lots of measurements of everything and tried to be systematic.

The drive was a first test, out of the garage up the drive and back in the garage. It still felt like a major achievement. No leaks of any fluids and sounds really smooth. Compression test looks good. Now to fit the front apron, lights etc. then the bonnet. Found some good advice on this forum and even more from my mate John Biggin who rebuilt his TR4A engine lots of times back when he was racing. Great to be able to ask dumb questions when you are not sure and the book skims over something.

Mick

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Well done Mick. now to put some miles on it !

I was tempted to do the same to mine (in situ re-vamp) but I know my gearbox needs some attention as well, so I just did the head this time round.

They can both come out together maybe in the winter.

Bob.

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Managed to salvage the rear bumper not perfect but will do for a while. Anyone know a good chrome business in West Yorkshire for the front which is toast as the chrome is peeling off. 

The problem was the back very rusty so how immerse the long section in 20l of Deox c? The two other short bits just stuck them in a bucket and reversed came out well. Considered domestic plastic soil stack but the volume of Deox too small so I came up with this which might help someone in the same position a bit of silicone, plastic from the Deox C bottle and washers/self tappers. Working a treat in its own bath. Plan to use some Silver POR 15 on the backs.

Andy

 

Rear bumper 2.jpg

Rear bumper 1.jpg

Rear Bumper 3.jpg

Edited by PodOne
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Cheers Paul I'll look them up.

Your the first local TR6 owner I've come across so far thought I was living in a desert!

Andy

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Had a day fitting the door trims and sidescreen brackets.   Fiddly but satisfying.

Now, should I consider using the half height sidescreens that were created 35 years ago from a reject pair of .Coventry Hood sidescreens?

I suspect they will need painting blue.

Cheers

Peter W

 

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

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Peter

i think you should have a go at making some of these competition side screens  

Ali Would be nice or fibreglass 

http://www.racetorations.co.uk/triumph-c56/tr2-c3/tr2-body-and-exterior-trim-c65/racetorations-competition-side-screens-pair-p729

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After watching Stuarts tutorial on Lead Loading I thought I'd give it a go this afternoon on the door bottoms which needed full length repairs which after blasting had a few pin holes to fill.  I'm really happy with the results and can see why its superior to Bondo its ability to seal joints etc is great as you can sculpt it into shape with a sharp chisel, body file and files. So if anyone is thinking about it give it a go I really enjoyed doing it and plan to use it on the repaired deck area and boot channel joints.

Thanks Stuart 

Forgot to add I'll skim with some Upol B fibre Glass just to fill the low spots then Bonda Rust

Andy

Door 8.jpg

Door 10.jpg

Door 14.jpg

Edited by PodOne
added info
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12 hours ago, PodOne said:

After watching Stuarts tutorial on Lead Loading I thought I'd give it a go this afternoon on the door bottoms which needed full length repairs which after blasting had a few pin holes to fill.  I'm really happy with the results and can see why its superior to Bondo its ability to seal joints etc is great as you can sculpt it into shape with a sharp chisel, body file and files. So if anyone is thinking about it give it a go I really enjoyed doing it and plan to use it on the repaired deck area and boot channel joints.

Thanks Stuart 

Forgot to add I'll skim with some Upol B fibre Glass just to fill the low spots then Bonda Rust

Andy

Door 8.jpg

Door 10.jpg

Door 14.jpg

Glad you decided to have a go, well done for carrying on a dying art. For a good filler if required I use this Upol D

Dont forget to clean the leaded areas off after with spirit wipe to remove any traces of solder paint.

Stuart.

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19 minutes ago, jfg said:

Where did you get the materials/tools and what burner did you use? I've always wondered what it would be like to do it

Solder sticks here https://www.frost.co.uk/solder-sticks/

Solder paint here https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/welding-brazing-and-soldering/flux/standard-fryolux-paint-40-60-500gm/p/FRY8756026S

Blow torch https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dickie-Dyer-EN417-Butane-Butane-Cartridge-Blow-Torch-Gas-Torches/174270500972?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Butter knife to spread and shape it Butter knife

You`ll also need a section of cotton (not polyester) sheet to wipe the heated solder paint to tin the surface.

Stuart.

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5 hours ago, jfg said:

Where did you get the materials/tools and what burner did you use? I've always wondered what it would be like to do it

I was lucky a mechanic mate put me in contact with a old boy who was retiring so I bought his leading kit off him the sticks alone made it worth it.

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We had a very nice TR4/A workshop in my garage with two newbies from our Stammtisch yesterday.

Very interesting what can be wrong on this cars, really made "better-worse", and they drive anyway without substantial problems!

 

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