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Head lamp pop up


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 In trying to solve the head lamps not popping up with the main light switch On l have found the following:

1.If l manually raise them With battery disconnected, when battery is connected they go down

2. If l put power to the side flasher connectors under the bonnet, the lamps pop up and down

The head lamps light up on dip and main beam when down, all the relays seem to be OK. 

HELP

 

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Hi Alfie

Suggest you thoroughly check the earth connections first as they can cause some interesting faults. Then have a look at the at the detail drawing (Sheet 7 ) showing the complete headlamp raise lower circuit. It sounds as if the problem is between the headlamp switch and the raise/lower motors as it effects both lamps and the dip/main beam bulbs illuminate correctly.

Cheers

Howard

TR7 electrical dwg UK 81 DHC.pdf

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And mind your hands when playing with the raise and lower.

Stuart.

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Hi Howard, thank you for your advice, l have check earthing points and so far can't find a problem but will keep working way through all connections. As l mentioned l can raise the lamp pods manually with the battery disconnected and they retract when the battery is connected, but if l try and raise them with  battery connected there resistance and the up knob will not move.

Thanks to Stuart for the warning.  

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I assume the lights still come on when you use the flash.

You have proved a lot of things already:-

1) Master light switch and flasher switch work

2) Headlamp pop-up motors & associated circuits are working as they both automatically go down when connected to power.

One more test you can try is to disconnect the power at the battery and wind the headlights to the up position (taking great care not to injure yourself) Make sure the master light switch is in the headlamp on position then reconnect the power. If both lamps immediately go down the problem is in the flash relay / pektron / connected wiring area.  Unfortunately this is not at all easy to access! If you have access to the British Leyland manual you will find that they are located by the fuse box behind the dashboard. If you don't you can PM me with your email address & I will send you the scanned pages.

It is just about possible to replace these relays without removing the dash so long as you don't mind lying on your back in the footwell & have smallish hands.  I would suggest you could try swapping the flash relay as a start. If that doesn't work it might be a defective Pekton but at £ 83.94  ( Robsport ) but as you don't want to do this as a trial, there is another test to do first.

Please let me know how it goes. I have attached a photo of the area in question for information

Howard

 

 

IMG_3475.JPG

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Hi Howard

The flasher stalk as no affect on the lights with the master switch On or Off. If l disconnect the power at the battery and wind the headlights to the up position reconnect the power both lamps immediately go down. Fortunately or unfortunately the fuse box has been change to a modern blade type, at least it makes getting to all the relays easier.

I have ordered a new relay.  All the relays on mine are of the same type. The Pekton unit is different to the Robsport picture, it has a plug and socket fitting. l let you know how l get on once the new replay arrives.   

Regards

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Hi Alfie,

So when you operate the flasher switch the lights don't come on at all ? If they don't that indicates a problem with the main power wiring in addition to the headlamp raise/lower circuit.

The original Pektron is shown in the attached picture and plugs straight into the wiring loom which is different from the new Robsport version.

Also suggest you check your fuse sizes if the fuseboard has been replaced. The old Lucas fuses were rated based on the current they blew at, but a modern fuse is rated at the current is can carry continuously. So a Lucas 50A fuse should be replaced by a 25A fuse to protect the wiring.

Coming back to your problem, as the wiring has been modified its going to be much more difficult to trace.

I think the next thing is to check the headlamps raise correctly. If you unplug the Pektron and very carefully connect the blue purple wire on the Pektron connector to +12v the headlamps should go up.

Cheers

Howard

 

 

pektron.jpg

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Hi Howard

I have  the same Pektron as your picture, Connecting 12v to the blue/purple wire the lights pop up and down continuously.

I swap 2 of relays over which resulted in the ignition being permanently on which would suggest l have a faulty relay. Although l can hear the relays clicking when l apply 12v, unfortunately my meter is on the blink so l can't check the output. 

Thanks again for all your help.

Regards

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Its probably worth checking the diodes and limit switches in the headlamp pods.

A small bulb and a PP9 battery are ideal for this. Connect the battery and bulb in series to the +Ve connected to the blue light green wire and the -Ve connected to the green wire - these should be easily accessible at the connector just behind the headlamps. By hand wind the headlamp through a complete cycle and the bulb should be on all the time except when the pods are fully down. Reverse the positive and negative connections and repeat. This time the bulb should not light up at all.

Now connect the battery & bulb to the brown/light green (+Ve) and green (-Ve) and repeat. The contact should be open & the light should be off when the headlamp pods are fully down, but close as you wind them through a complete cycle. Reverse the positive and negative connections and repeat. This time the bulb should not light up at all.

If your results are the same, then the headlamp motor, diodes and switches are OK

H

 

 

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Most 7's I've owned have had problems with the light motors. Although there are obviously in-depth problems here and luckily expert help, I only had to check up and clean all the connections where they're exposed under the front of the car.

I'd also recommend being careful. A few years back one of my lights refused to pop up so I knelt down at the front of the car and began manually turning the knob. All of a sudden the pod raised and smacked me under the chin and I badly bit my tongue!

Makes me smile now, but very painful at the time!!

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Hi Mike

Take note of your warning and l also smile at your expense, l'm still working my way through all the advise gratefully received from the forum. 

Regards  

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Hi Mike

Take note of your warning and l also smile at your expense, l'm still working my way through all the advise gratefully received from the forum. 

Regards  

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Having following all the advice without any success l decided checking the wiring from the indicator/ flasher switch, the first finding was the loom was covered in blue insulating tape, with the switch removed and tape removed l found a if'y repair on the earth wire, l strip the switch cleaned all the contacts, replace the wire refitted, switch On main light switch, lights pop up, dip and main beam worked. called it a day.

This morning tried the lights without changing any thing, no pop up but lights still illuminating. i'm l right in thinking the switch is causing the problem.

Regards   

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Pop-up problems are a well trodden path. In the first instance check and clean connections in the engine bay behind the lights, dead easy but if both lights are affected this is less likely. Search here and on other TR7/8 forums if that doesn't work.

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