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Stromberg Jet Carrier Orifice removal


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Working to rebuild my July 64 build TR4 carbs.  Need to remove the threaded tube at the bottom of the carb where the adjustment screw fits.  There is clearly an O ring there but it pretty stuck.  There seem to be so many types and options on Stromberg carbs that I don’t trust any of the instructions I see.  My carbs have the needle fixed from the top without a top adjustment mechanism.

Do I tap on this with a plastic hammer or does it unscrew into two pieces to come out? Or is there another trick?

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Edited by RMP NC
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Moss motors calls this a Bushing Retainer and shows for a wide range of years for TRs.  Similar to what I have but different too - in material and the external head shape.  This one looks like you could tap or press it out.  Mine rotates just fine it won’t come out with what I consider reasonable force pushing it out.  That cast aluminum version I have is probably pretty brittle so I don’t want to put too much force on it.  

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Penetrating oil and pulling outward on the outside bolt end while twisting popped it out.  O ring deteriorated and made a sticky ring that was holding it.  The power of anticipating everyone reading my post in the days to come filled me with ingenious inspiration it seems.

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Edited by RMP NC
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I have just completed stripping a pair of CD150's from an Alpine engine. They had the same part. I left the float chamber base attached to the carb body, & unscrewed the jet holder from below, which also pulled it through the base.

It was very reluctant to unscrew, this was because both parts are aluminium, & the thread was galling badly, having got them out, I had to re-finish the threads on the jet holders using a thread file to allow it to screw back in. Also I strongly recommend using a good anti-scuff lubricant (mollygrease etc) when screwing back in.

Bob.

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I will follow that advice and lube the threads and the O ring.  Any other lessons learned please share.  

My earlier difficulty was removing the needle itself.  I got myself confused with all the info out there about the top needle adjustable versions which I think came later in the carb developments.  There is a special adjustment tool you can buy for this.  I looked for that hex head needle adjusting screw above the needle for a long time before I got it straight that the needle was fixed and adjusted from below.  All I had to do was remove the small screw on the side that holds the needle then use a soft vice clamp to old the needle and get it out.  Did that without bending or breaking the needle.

This was the first carb, number two will be faster with lots less cursing.

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Yep, I was also expecting to use the top adjustment tool (which I have had for years) but much more like the SU method. Needle held in the piston exactly the same as SU's

(I wonder where they got the idea ^_^

Waiting for gasket set (including the 'O' rings) to arrive before final re-assembly & jet centering.   The only thing which would have stopped this pair working (apart from a lot of grime) was the 'O' ring on one of the jet adjusters, the smaller one.

Zenith CD, CDS, CD-2S Series - Zenith Caburetters.url   This may be useful

Bob.

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The top adjustment Strombergs were used on Stags and other later cars. 4As only had the bottom adjustment and solid needle.

Chris

 

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