RogerH Posted June 15, 2020 Report Share Posted June 15, 2020 (edited) On 6/11/2020 at 5:09 PM, Graham said: In this instance I had a 2 litre soft drink bottle with about the top quarter chopped of then 2 electrodes opposite one another but both wired to the +ve side of a old battery charger and then dangled the bracket in the solution Hooked up to the -ve really did bubble away very well ! Hi Folks, going on from this topic. back in the 60's one of my workshop visits as a BEA apprentice I spent a week in the specialist plating area. This used a Dalic system (http://www.dalic.com.au/cadmium-plating-kit/) and you could precisely deposit various plating materials where you wanted it. Used quiet often to build up areas where bearings needed a precise fit on shafts. Using Grahams process above; the operator has a conductive wand connected to one side of the power supply. This wand had a sponge tip that was wetted with the plating solution. The job was connected to the other side of the supply. The sponge was held in contact with the job. Being kept wet, until the plating was built up to the desired thickness. What is the point of the above drivel?? If one used the wand soaked in citric acid (liquid or gel); connected to the supply and brushed over the rusty surface would it remove the rust. if it did then all those difficult locations on the body work could be attacked insitu. I can see an invention coming on. Roger Edited June 15, 2020 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted June 15, 2020 Report Share Posted June 15, 2020 (edited) Another publication from Cunning University, Roger! But I note that Graham had "2 electrodes opposite one another" Many descriptions of electrolytic cleaning and plating make the point that it works in 'line of sight'. Your solution (!) achieves the best possible line of sight, actual contact, but more electrodes in the bath around the item will improve coverage, without needing an actual operator. And if more ideas from the Cunning U. Common Room are needed, the bath to take the bonnet that Graham first posted on would be a swimming pool! But could be constructed from dry bricks lined with plastic sheet. Edited June 15, 2020 by john.r.davies Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 15, 2020 Report Share Posted June 15, 2020 Hi John, Graham PM'd me earlier to say he experimented with this at lunchtime and it worked a treat. The benefit of the wand approach is that it will reach anywhere, so you do not need a bath for very difficult/bulky jobs. But you do need an operator. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted June 15, 2020 Report Share Posted June 15, 2020 "You tell a lot about a person from their wand". https://www.wizardingworld.com/news/discover-your-wand-on-pottermore Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ed_h Posted June 15, 2020 Report Share Posted June 15, 2020 Caswell and others sell the "wand" plating setup for hobbyists. Available in at least nickle, copper, and gold, and probably others. It works fine, but is really for ornamental plating. I think It could easily be adapted for rust removal, bu it would be pretty slow, plus there are better ways than electrolysis. Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 15, 2020 Report Share Posted June 15, 2020 Hi Ed, my thoughts on using a wand + electrolysis is accessibility. Many areas on the body can't be easily 'got'at' with a grit blasting gun etc and maybe on a fully built /painted car you may not want all the muck and inconvenience So a simple sponge on a stick and some gel may help. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ed_h Posted June 15, 2020 Report Share Posted June 15, 2020 Roger, yeah, I can see it as a special tool in the toolbox, for when nothing else can do the job. Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Grahamgl Posted July 4, 2020 Report Share Posted July 4, 2020 On 5/31/2020 at 2:36 PM, stuart said: Bilt Hamber do a Gel Deox which works pretty well, youll need to work it in well with a scotchbrite pad and re-apply a few times if its deep, you could spot blast as those little pot guns dont produce enough pressure to do damage, then repaint under there with Bondarust just masking off the areas where the inner frame is to be welded back on and spray those areas with weldthru Zinc primer, Once painted just waxoyl and forget. Stuart The instructions on the Deox container say to degrease the panel after rust removal and before applying the Deox. Would panel wipe be a suitable way to remove grease? If not what should one use please? Thanks Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 4, 2020 Report Share Posted July 4, 2020 3 minutes ago, Grahamgl said: The instructions on the Deox container say to degrease the panel after rust removal and before applying the Deox. Would panel wipe be a suitable way to remove grease? If not what should one use please? Thanks Graham Panel wipe is fine, do get a good quality one as the cheap ones evaporate too quick. Use two cloths, one with the spirit wipe on and a second to dry it off with otherwise all your doing is wiping any oil/grease around and not removing it. This applies to any painting stage too. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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