97fm Posted May 30, 2020 Report Share Posted May 30, 2020 Hi The spin on oil filter conversation( with oil cooler) on my Tr6 is leaking where it meets the engine, I have cleaned out the grooves, renewed seals(even tried fitting two large 'o'rings) but I still have a leak. My cold oil pressure is about 95psi and about 30psi when warm, but of course I have a leak. Any Ideas??? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Trever the rever Posted May 30, 2020 Report Share Posted May 30, 2020 (edited) Hi there, my TR6 also leaks in the same position. I’ve bought the new gaskets, but haven’t got around to doing the job yet. I suspect when I had bottom end engine work done two years ago, the installation was disturbed, as it didn’t leak previously. One observation is the cold 95 psi oil pressure is similar to what I had over the years after I fitted an uprated Oil relief valve spring to assist oil pressure in what was really a worn engine, (forgive me but 30psi when hot is a little suspect, and again what mine would settle down to when hot). When I had the bottom end sorted I went back to the standard spring, and a lower 75 cold but sitting at 50 when hot. I think what I am saying is check the rv spring, make sure it is standard as you won’t be loosing any pressure when hot. It may help oil loss at the adapter face in the short term. regards Trevor Hughes. Edited May 30, 2020 by Trever the rever Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted May 30, 2020 Report Share Posted May 30, 2020 I had to coat both sides of the rubber gasket with Permatex No. 2 sealer and tighten the centre bolt up as far as I was game and then a bit more before the leak stopped. The leak won't affect your oil pressure, mine also goes over 90 psi cold and maybe 40-50 hot - depending on how hard I've driven the car. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John McCormack Posted May 31, 2020 Report Share Posted May 31, 2020 30psi oil pressure when hot at idle is OK. Anything below 50 hot and above 2000rpm is an engine rebuild, if not immediately it ain't far away. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted May 31, 2020 Report Share Posted May 31, 2020 The gasket (“flange”) design relies on one single bolt for. Relative large crossectional area. And the soft rubber gasket can easily deform when not compressed enough. When I started my engine after a rebuilt...it leaked in that area too. I had not tightened the bolt enough, because the copper gasket ring under the bolt head does not need much load to seal. The much larger O-ring does need quite a bit more load (bolt force) to achieve what engineers call sufficient gasket seating stress. So like Miike, I torqued the bolt more, and now it it ok. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveR Posted May 31, 2020 Report Share Posted May 31, 2020 They may have supplied a too large centre O ring and this is preventing the outer edge sealing correctly. I say this because I have had this happen in the past on the Vitesse. The other point is to ensure the outer sealing ring has not twisted in the groove. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted May 31, 2020 Report Share Posted May 31, 2020 Hi Dave, if I recall correct, the inner flat rubber ring is compressed by a spring, so “floating” and does not much affect compression of the outer ring in the block. Or am I wrong here? Cheers, Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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